Reports written the day after said there were 150 (or even 200) boats in this gathering. It was really fun to see everybody out again, not to mention the doctors, etc. on the fondamenta in front of the hospital.
Last Sunday morning there was quite the boating event, after three months without either boats or events. Everybody was more than ready for it.
Seeing that the city is on the verge of complete reopening after the three-month lockdown, the moment was right for the “Vogada de la Rinascita” (Row of the Rebirth). The morning afloat was emotional (the worst is over, we hope; the day is glorious; finally we’re all out rowing again) and a tangible way of expressing group gratitude to the medical personnel of the hospital, as well as a gesture of respect to the victims.
The event was organized by the Panathlon Club, Venice chapter (fun fact: Panathlon International, now numbering some 300 chapters scattered across 30 countries, was founded in Venice in 1951), with the collaboration of the Comune.
We were there with two sandolos from the F. Morosini Naval Military School, where Lino teaches Venetian rowing. Cadets and passengers are looking good on the way from the school to the Arsenal (Lino astern, a friend on the bow). Going with the tide just added to that happy feeling. (I was on the other boat, obviously.)The boats began slowly to assemble in the Great Basin of the Arsenal. Allow me to draw your admiring attention away from the boats for a moment to the enormous Armstrong Mitchell hydraulic crane, installed here in 1883. At the end of the 19th century there were nine of these behemoths in the world, but this is the only one left and is designated a historic monument by the Superintendency of Archaeology, Fine Arts and Landscape. It could lift up to 160 tons of weight, primarily naval artillery and sheets of steel for the cladding of battleships.At the head of the procession, departing from the Arsenal, was a gondola carrying Luigi Brugnaro, the mayor, in the bow, and making a video amidships is Giovanni Giusto, president of the Coordinating Association of Rowing Clubs as well as the municipal delegate tasked with keeping up with Venetian rowing. Be cynical if you want to, but seeing the mayor rowing (and he did the whole thing) was unusually cool.The “local police,” otherwise known as the “vigili,” have their own sandolo Buranello. There was an effort a while ago to reinstate their once-normal patrols of the canals by oar-power, but I think that rapidly faded away.
The corteo departed the Arsenal at 11:00 AM, and we all wended our way toward the hospital, where we stopped and gave the traditional “alzaremi” salute to the assembled doctors, nurses, and other medical personnel gathered on the fondamenta. Much clapping, many smiles. Much noontime sun scorching our skulls.
We weren’t practicing social distancing, but it just so happened that we were in an open space at that moment.
After executing the “alzaremi” twice, people just sort of hung around for a minute or so before the corteo got moving again. I’m seated astern with what looks like an oar in my lap. Of course it’s an oar, but I don’t remember it being that close.
Down the Cannaregio Canal, and the Grand Canal, to a pause in front of the basilica of the Salute (dedicated to Our Lady of Health, appropriate in this case), where members of the chorus of La Fenice and musicians of the Benedetto Marcello conservatory performed assorted wonderful pieces. We didn’t linger — by that point it was almost 1:00 PM and the heat and the hunger were singing their own little duet in our brains: “Shade…food…water…food…shade…”.
Considering how lavishly this was reported in the foreign press — and we were hugely photogenic, it’s true — not only was the corteo lovely to look at, but it conveyed the message that Venice is alive and has come out of its pharmacological coma. Translation: Get traveling, people. We’re ready for you.
Gathering at the bottom of the Grand Canal, me still astern, me still dreaming of glaciers and permafrost.
Yes, the row was open to anyone with a boat with oars. So yes, a yellow kayak with a pink inflatable — is that a dinosaur? — had a perfect right to join in. The gondolas were not carrying tourists, as I thought at first. Each carried a guest of honor: The ambassadors to Italy from the USA, Japan, and France, The American ambassador reciprocated via an article in the Gazzettino the next day by enthusing about Venice and recommending that all Americans come here forthwith. It’s not clear when that might be, considering that at the moment Americans aren’t permitted to enter Italy because of the virus. But let’s be hopeful.The “people of the oar,” as we are called in a sort of Paleolithic clan nomenclature, come in every sort of shape and size. Tradition dictates that women wear a white skirt on special boating occasions though, as you see, the definition of “skirt” is open to interpretation. But whatever you were wearing (or rowing) it was a splendid occasion in every way.
Cara Erla,
This was truly a delight to read and see. Oh how I would love to have been there (and what the hell, I’ve had a covid test…following one of my usual motorcycle crashes, so I’m safe to import). And “alzaremi” …oars up…a new term that I will spring on my fellow language students. Nice to know that Lino teaches at the Academy. So, mille grazie, Amica!
We’re also really looking forward to being there, but we really can’t cope with the heat of summer, we’re winter migrants, usually, to Venice. We’ll be back! – Promise!
Oh, what a wonderful post! I fear it’ll be a long time (and rightfully so) before we Americans are allowed in. Thanks so much for sharing the fun of the vogata, you clearly had lovely weather and a great time.
These pictures and your descriptions were wonderful. Thank you for sharing. Loved seeing you and Lino in youR respective pictures.
What a spectacular event! Looks like so fun!
Dear Erla & Lino,
I’m so glad to see that you’re both well and that, although this “schifezza” is far from over, things seems to be on the right track. The tribute to the nursing staff at the hospital was more than well-deserved. Sałdi in prua! 😄
I’d really like to come to Venice as usual but this year I’ll give it a miss but your blog always gives me the feeling of being there. Close but distant, one might say?
13 Comments
Cara Erla,
This was truly a delight to read and see. Oh how I would love to have been there (and what the hell, I’ve had a covid test…following one of my usual motorcycle crashes, so I’m safe to import). And “alzaremi” …oars up…a new term that I will spring on my fellow language students. Nice to know that Lino teaches at the Academy. So, mille grazie, Amica!
Erla, thanks for a joyous account of your water city’s return to rowing and tribute to the medical heroes.
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Wish you could have been here with us!
Delightful! Thank you for the splendid account!
Congratulations and thank you for my big smile of the day! This American will be there as soon as…!
We’re also really looking forward to being there, but we really can’t cope with the heat of summer, we’re winter migrants, usually, to Venice. We’ll be back! – Promise!
Oh, what a wonderful post! I fear it’ll be a long time (and rightfully so) before we Americans are allowed in. Thanks so much for sharing the fun of the vogata, you clearly had lovely weather and a great time.
Erla:
These pictures and your descriptions were wonderful. Thank you for sharing. Loved seeing you and Lino in youR respective pictures.
What a spectacular event! Looks like so fun!
Hugs, Rita
Wish you and Bruce had been here!
Dear Erla & Lino,
I’m so glad to see that you’re both well and that, although this “schifezza” is far from over, things seems to be on the right track. The tribute to the nursing staff at the hospital was more than well-deserved. Sałdi in prua! 😄
I’d really like to come to Venice as usual but this year I’ll give it a miss but your blog always gives me the feeling of being there. Close but distant, one might say?
All the best and stay smart and safe!
/Andreas
I’m sorry we won’t see you this year — I was hoping the opening-up would make it possible for you to come. But better to be prudent, for sure.
So glad to see such a happy event happening in Venice, Erla!!
Delighted to read this Erla. Still very restricted in Scotland, but going slowly in the right direction ie a return to Venice!