A look behind the virus

Not to trivialize people’s concerns, but I wanted to show that flowers are blooming just the same.  Miniature iris!  Who knew?

I had no intention of writing anything about the coronavirus and its current effect on Venice, but a friend passed along a comment that pushed several buttons, so to speak, so here goes.

First, about the virus: Schools are closed for the second week, masses continue to not be celebrated in any churches, sporting events are either canceled or postponed to some vague not-far-but-not-near future.  I have heard some references to the city being a “ghost town,” but that may be a bit exaggerated.  True, late yesterday afternoon via Garibaldi was almost empty, as was the supermarket, but then again, it was cold, dark, and raining.  I could hardly justify my being outside, much less wonder about anybody else.

This morning, warmer and sunnier, saw plenty of locals out and about, at least in our neighborhood.  Obviously I can’t speak about the city as a whole, but by the same token, the “ghost town” person was most likely referring to the area that he or she frequents.  There weren’t many children around, which is odd, considering that they’re not in school, but I presume the parents are keeping them inside.  There seemed to be less boat traffic than usual out in the bacino of San Marco, but still, our morning promenade, which went as far as the Ponte dei Greci, took us past several places where workmen were toiling away.  So I can’t say that everything has ground to a halt.

On the Ponte de la Veneta Marina, these men were chipping away the old mortar and planning, I assume, to apply something new and sticky. Much as I admire their dealing with the stone banister, the steps of the bridge itself have been crying out for help for years. Anyway, here we had business going on as usual.

A noticeable number of restaurants and some bar/cafes are closed, but this didn’t strike me as exceptional — in fact, I might not have noticed it if we weren’t all mentally on red-alert status.  The period between Carnival and Easter is always very quiet; it’s an ideal time for the owners to go on vacation, or undertake maintenance work, precisely because there are relatively few tourists.  There being even fewer due to contagion concerns doesn’t mean that the virus has prostrated the city.

Yes, restaurateurs have been reported as wailing and gnashing their teeth about the drop in business.  (An ordinance has imposed a three-foot distance between tables, which does make the atmosphere slightly less welcoming.)  But merchants and restaurateurs are evidently born tearing their hair and yelling “Business is terrible!”  I’m not saying that this is not a difficult period for them, it’s just a refrain that is so common, for one reason or another, that it has acquired echoes of wolf.

In any case, I think the ghost-town comparison may be felt more by non-residents who aren’t able to visit museums, or who see their favorite bar or pizzeria closed.  Anyone who has ever come to Venice in late winter/early spring expects to find breathing room, whether it’s three feet in every direction or not.

About the buttons to which I referred in my opening statement (pushing of, effect of) —  I will explain them in my next post.

I knew that the churches are still open, even if mass isn’t celebrated. (And very quiet and empty they are, too.) But I didn’t expect to see precautions reach this level: No more holy water in the stoups. And don’t think you can just moisten your finger in what’s left in the bottom. Nope. No touching and that’s it.

 

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ignore possible repeat post(s)

Me here.  Just to say that the new design is ready for showtime, but that might mean that you could receive the last one or two again.  I’m not totally clear on the process at this point.

I mention this only so no one thinks my brain (or my blog) is stuck in some weird loop.

Happy news: The new format is now mobile-friendly.

New posts on the way.

 

 

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True Love Street

The island of Sant’ Erasmo is the largest in the entire lagoon, which is the least of its appeal. It is a sort of antidote, if you will, to Venice, especially on a muted autumn afternoon.  And if you love mosquitoes, you will have gone to heaven.  So have the mosquitoes, come to think of it.

Anyone going to the center of town on the island of Sant’ Erasmo (which is redundant — the town is nothing but center) has the option of changing vaporettos at the first stop (“Capannone”) and proceeding to the next stop (“Chiesa”), or spending a tranquil 30 minutes walking from C1 to C2.

The first time I did this was unintentional.  Years ago I was voyaging toward the center of town to watch the three Venetian rowing races held there every year on the first Sunday in June.  But bad timing on my part meant that I was stuck ashore, because I had had no reason to know that service on that part of the vaporetto’s normal route would be suspended; for a few shining moments each year the vaporettos are banned from what is essentially the racetrack, watery though it may be.  This is one of the few occasions in which a Venetian boat being rowed gets to tell a motorboat what it can’t do.

Trekking along among the fields, I discovered I really liked going that way.  So a few weeks ago, on the way to the early October races, I happily set out on my pastoral excursion.

It doesn’t look very far, when seen on the map, but when you walk this route you have the sensation of having been transported extremely far from Venice in every way. That’s part of its charm, naturally.

The road is officially named Via de le Motte, which roughly means “Street (or Way) of the Small Artificial Islands Constructed at Convenient Points for the Fishing Valleys.”  Man-made hillocks, basically, which makes sense considering how much work has been done during the centuries to make the lagoon useful to people.  But it wasn’t long before I discovered that the impending matrimony of two unknown lovers had inspired at least one friend (possibly more than one) to offer a series of dire, last-minute warnings spray-painted onto the asphalt.

For all I know, though, they might have been sprayed on in the dark of night by the groom himself.  Or best man?  Matron of honor?  Mother of the bride?  Her father?  Her father-in-law?

The very soul and spirit of rural tranquillity. But soon the scene will unexpectedly shift toward drama, imagined or real.
“Evviva ea sposa”( Long live the bride). Note for anyone interested in the Venetian language: You do not spell “la” as “ea,” you just pronounce it that way. This spelling is a fairly recent aberration, but it seems to be taking hold.  Anyway, the sentiment is charming.
“Torna indrio” (torna indietro): Turn back! Me, or the bride? Walk on…
Sweet. Now we’re back in lovebird territory.  Here’s to C + F.  But below the initials are two mystic symbols, one which appear to be pliers or shears or wirecutters, and a turtle.  The turtle, I am informed, represents the value of not rushing to the church but taking one’s time, and the shears stand for the groom’s nickname.  Read on.
“Sei sicura?” (Are you sure?). The use of the feminine gender here is a bit ominous, though I guess it’s not a totally unusual question to ask the bride on the cusp of the great day. One has been known to ask it of oneself, I’ve heard.
“Stop” needs no translation.  “Fermite” repeats “Stop” as directed to a person.
“Dimentica” (forget) followed by “NO.”  Pretty clear meaning, but I have discovered that there is a rock song entitled “Dimentica,” sung by a man known as Raf, which is devoted to the melancholy delight raised by the recollection of a love affair which is no more.  If this is a veiled reference to lines such as “Forget my words if you can forgive them,” it doesn’t bode well, except for the emphatic “NO.”  Maybe I’m overthinking this.  On we go.
I’m not completely alone with this disembodied duo (or trio?). People have places to go even on Sant’ Erasmo and this is a main road, after all.
“Rinuncia a Trancia.” (Renounce “Trancia.”)  This isn’t a command to quit using shears/wirecutters/pliers, but an admonition to reject the groom, who happens to go by the nickname “Trancia.”  Things are getting a little tense?

“Sei ancora in tempo” (you still have time).  I’m beginning to tend toward the best man as perpetrator.  A rejected lover?  It wouldn’t be the first time.

“Fai inversione” (make a U-turn), with a helpful arrow.  Bear in mind that these admonitions are spaced reasonably far apart, enough so that as you walk along you don’t see the next one coming up.  Of course this adds to their increasing intensity.
“Stai superando il limite” (you are passing the limit).  As one approaches the town center — you see that lagoon has taken the place of the artichoke fields — the message seems to acquire a certain force.  Last chance, babe.  You’ve been warned.
“Ormai ci siamo” (by now we’re there, “there” implying a conclusion but not a geographical point.  It’s as if something has been settled, not that you’ve just about reached the municipal swimming pool).
“Specialita’ del giorno tartar di trancia” (Daily special tartare of Trancia).  You either have to be a relative, or at least a native of the island, to get the nuances here, but I imagine it’s hilarious.

And so the weird seer fades into the boggy marshes, his/her/their exhortations exhausted.

“The course of true love never did run smooth,” Shakespeare averred.  Who’d have thought he’d seen the road on Sant’ Erasmo?

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The Garden of the Forgotten Venetians: The Partisan (Part 2: The Women)

This iconic image appears on many different articles and websites; the only identification I’ve found so far is “Laura D’Oriano and others.”  I can’t tell you which is Laura, nor can I explain where, why, or what is happening here..  But it seems to stand extremely well on its own.

The statues and plaques and other assorted monuments in honor of the women partisans of Italy can tend — like statues, etc. of anything else — toward the abstract.  It’s one thing to look at a bronze or ceramic figure or street sign and try to imagine who it symbolizes.  But the 100,000 or so women in Italy who fought against the Nazis and Fascists were anything but symbolic.

A factor that wasn’t much acknowledged up until the Sixties, more or less, was that many were also fighting against the social and familial “dictatorship” of mores and customs and taboos which had changed little since the 1800’s.  The partisan women were, in many respects, proto-feminists, and filmmaker Rossella Schillaci produced a documentary about them with the terse title “Libere” (“free,” in the plural feminine gender).

I haven’t seen the film, but here is the trailer; below is the text (translated by me) of an interview with the filmmaker by Eliane Viale of vice.com.  This strips away some of the veneer of romance to show the ferocious reality of their lives.

THE LESS-KNOWN STORY OF THE WOMEN OF THE RESISTANCE

We spoke about what the Resistance signified for the women who acted as couriers, and not only.

(Interview by Eliane Viale, Vice magazine, and Rossella Schillaci, published in Vice magazine on April 25, 2017, https://www.vice.com/it).

Introduction: Remember the reluctance of the protagonist to recognize, even briefly, the importance of the role which the women — often adolescents — carried out.

The latent yearning of Johnny in the film for the military Puritanism made him shake his head at the sight (of the many girls who made up part of the brigade).  They, in effect, practiced free love, but were young women, in their exact season of love which coincided with a season of death, they loved doomed men and love, very often, was the next to last act of their destined existence.  They made themselves useful, fought, fled for their lives, knew torture and horrors and terrors, enduring them as much as the men.

The Resistance has passed into history as a thing of men, but in the ranks of the partisans there were also girls of little more or less than 20 years old, who beyond contributing in an important manner to the struggle, lived their formative lives in an environment — not only political, but also emotional — that was extremely particular.

What that period signified for Italian women, and how all the promises that developed then were later reduced to smoke, Rossella Schillaci speaks in the documentary Libere.  I contacted her to know more.

Vice: The film is a selection of archival material, audio and video, among which are interviews but above all scenes of life — images that I didn’t believe even existed.

R.S.: It was Paola Olivetti, director of the National Cinematographic Archive of the Resistance, who proposed that I realize a project that concentrated on the participation of the women.  The interviews were gathered over a period of 50 years, principally in the Archive in collaboration with other organizations of research on the Resistance in various places.  The rest is also principally from the National Archive of the Resistance, but many other archives, public and private (from the Audiovisual Archive of the Worker’s Movement and the Democratic of the Luce Institute, but there are really many) furnished us with precious material — photographs, extracts from period documents, and family films in super-8.

Clorinda Menguzzato “Veglia,” 20 years old, was captured with her ill companion whom she didn’t want to abandon.  She was beaten and tortured for three days by Germans and Fascists, then killed on October 10, 1944.
This was also Clorinda Menguzzato (adige.it).
One of numerous signs in towns and villages that commemorate the partisan women. (La Repubblica)

Vice: If the role of the women as couriers during the partisan struggle is fairly well known, your documentary has another focus: the fact that this participation was, in all ways, a movement of the liberation of women.  “Each one did it because she wanted to feel free,” said one woman in an interview.

R.S.: Yes, listening to all the interviews I noticed that this aspect emerged, that it seems to me had never been told and which removed a lot of rhetoric from the narrative of the period — it is a period that is so mythic that it’s difficult not to make it rhetorical.  Instead, these reflections, often bitter and ironic, succeed in giving a key to a new reading (of history).

The women actively entered the struggle even if it was for “contingent” motives: they had a brother, a father, the husband among the partisans — and in fact, for example, one declares to have seen her own loved ones reduced to near death; another says “There was the fight, and I wanted to be in the fight too” … But the common implication is that there was a yearning for freedom which came out because of that historic moment.

There was nothing to lose: they were homeless, they didn’t study, they worked in the factories or in the countryside in the place of men from when they were 13-14 years old.  One sensed that there was a necessary change underway, for which one needed to fight.  And in this change many said that they discovered what politics were, after 20 years of dictatorship, and which for all of history had been considered a thing of men.  Therefore they understood that they were absolutely capable of doing everything that men were doing.

Ancilla Marighetto “Ora” was also part of the Gramsci Brigade.  She was captured during a general search patrol; one of her skis broke and,  not being able to escape, sought refuge in a tree.  Discovered by dogs, Ora fired all the rounds in her pistol at the Germans.  Dragged to earth, she was arrested, raped, the dogs were set on her, then she was shot.  Neither she nor Menguzzato revealed the names of their companions. (Wikipedia)

Vice: Often their role was as couriers (staffette), but many of them in the documentary lament that later it was a term that was always used in the diminutive.

R.S.: It’s true, their role of connection was fundamental at the strategic level.  Without those who carried information, arms, food, who cared for the wounded, etc., the men in hiding couldn’t have done anything.  And often they did this by risking a lot, because if they were taken, the punishment certainly wasn’t more gentle than that for the men…

Furthermore, it’s been forgotten their role in the cities, where the Groups for the Defense of Women were created, as much to safeguard the workers as to collect aid to carry to the brigades, as to defend the prisoners and their families.  It was a finely detailed fabric and extremely well-organized, in which 100,000 women participated.  There were also the factories, where the women gave life to strikes and revolts, actual sabotage as in war; and carried forward clandestine political propaganda, in newspapers and mimeograph, and in political assemblies and oral information.

Vice: Watching the documentary it’s striking the fact that the women use, to describe their participation in the Resistance, words like “adventure,” “recklessness,” “escape” from the old-fashionedness of their parents — the aspect of war is really and truly secondary.  One woman tells that she went on her bicycle to get the explosive dropped by parachute by the English, and laughs remembering the official who told her to be careful on the way back because if she fell with five kilos of explosive “it would have made a pretty big hole.”

R.S.: Well, one thing that I’d never thought about is that then many girls, even if they were considered women, were only 15-16 years old, and for us they wouldn’t have been much more than children.  Certainly there was a lot of recklessness, partly due to their age.  But another woman told me something important: “You today can’t understand, in that period people were imprisoned for nothing, you could die, and anyway even if they didn’t kill you one died of hunger.  We had nothing to lose.”  There is this idea that it was all an extraordinary period, and the grand enthusiasm with which many women participated depended also on the fact that there were no alternatives.

Virginia Tonelli (“Luisa”), from Castelnuovo del Friuli, responsible for the Groups for the Defense of Women, was appointed to maintain contact between the Triveneto Command, the Garibaldino Command, and the directors’ group in Trieste.  Captured and tortured, she was transferred to the Risiera of S. Sabba  where after being tortured she was burned alive in the crematorium oven.

Vice: The women partisans talk about how they found themselves, for the first time, to be free, as much as the men, even in the aspect of personal relations: friendships, love stories, sex — “One made love, and lots of it,” said one.  “We were all comrades, friends,” said another.  Was it really so simple?

R.S.:  In truth those are things that weren’t asked very often, after the war, for modesty.  But those who talk say that the rapport was equal and marked by respect, by friendship.  In spite of the situation, no one told me about violence, etc.  In many interviews it comes out that often there was only one girl in the midst of all the men (and even they were only 16-18 years old, in many cases), but there was always a relative or the captain who protected them — and often there wasn’t any need.  Certainly many love stories were born, and I discovered that there were also many partisan weddings, celebrated in the brigade by the captain or a priest.

Vice: Speaking of things that weren’t asked, I was thinking that we are the last to have the possibility to speak with people who lived those years….

R.S.: And to ask the right questions.  I also interviewed some women (unfortunately there are few who are still alive), and I realized that the responses change very much according to the question that you ask.  Many things, at the end of the war, weren’t asked because of a kind of modesty.  It also counts that it was inconvenient also for the left to talk out loud that the women had had that freedom, that they had been together with men without the oversight of their parents… So it was all kept quiet, and for this reason many things weren’t even asked — a reason why the story of those years is a little smoothed over.

In this way many interviews stop at the Liberation, even if it’s very important what happened after the Liberation; there was a great disillusionment for the women, because the expectations, the hopes, the promises that had matured during the war weren’t all maintained.  There was a return to the past.

Cecilia Deganutti from Trieste was originally a nurse with the Italian Red Cross. After joining the Osoppo-Friuli Brigade she undertook missions in Udine and the area of lower Friuli.  After her capture she, like Virginia Tonelli, was  taken to the Risiera di San Sabba, killed, and burned.

Vice:  In fact, the women who had lived that independence at work and in life, at the end of the war were returned to the place they had been before.  One of them says that “Notwithstanding that we were wives of partisans, our husbands were still dominant.”  Society wasn’t ready?

R.S.: I can’t give you an answer as a historian, because I’m not one, but the women who I listened to spoke of a period that was extremely hard: very little work, few houses, little money; furthermore, the men had returned from the front and it seemed natural to everybody, women and men, that the women should leave the jobs to them.  There was also a great mistrust regarding the partisans, who were considered hotheads — in the documentary a woman recounts that it was easier for an ex-Fascist to find work than for a partisan.  Being that there were few jobs, at work as well as in the political parties the women were demoted and relegated to the home to take care of the family.

Vice: One woman in particular maintains that the feminism of the Seventies and Eighties forgot that many things had already been done during the Resistance.

R.S.: Let’s say that immediately after the war it was desirable that one should forget, nothing was done to conserve or make known what had happened.  Even some representatives of the left political parties didn’t want the women to march during the Liberation, to not show how many had participated.  In the same way, even though the women had immediately been given the right to vote, at the beginning they couldn’t be elected — then, fortunately, this law was quickly changed in time for the first elections.

Vice: As always in history, anyway, the results aren’t unequivocal, nor easy to interpret: one partisan, for example, says that the fact that the women suddenly had the vote guaranteed three decades of the Christian Democratic government.

R.S.:  Certainly, it’s interesting that it was actually the women, the ones most committed, to say they didn’t want the vote.  Because they knew how much the Christian Democrats had done in the years after the war to change votes; people even feared excommunication if they voted for the Communist Party.  (Lino remembers that there were signs on the church doors threatening excommunication to anyone voting for the Communists. He stresses too that many partisans came from parish groups, religious institutes, the Boy Scouts, and that “the minimum part” were Communists.)

French actor Fernandel as Don Camillo, by Stefan Kahlhammer (Wikipedia).

(Note: Anyone who has enjoyed the books about Don Camillo by Giovannino Guareschi, and the films starring Fernandel as the pugnacious priest, may not realize that the seemingly humorous conflicts between Don Camillo and Peppone, the Communist mayor, bring to life the real struggle after the war between the Communist Party and the Catholic church.  Wikipedia summarizes this tension: “As depicted in the stories, the Communists are the only political party with a mass grassroots organization in the town. The Christian Democratic Party, the main force in Italian politics at the time, does not have a local political organization (at least, none is ever mentioned); rather, it is the Catholic Church which unofficially but very obviously plays that role. Don Camillo thus plays an explicitly political as well as religious role. For example, when the Communists organize a local campaign to sign the Stockholm Peace Appeal, it is Don Camillo who organizes a counter-campaign, and townspeople take for granted that such a political campaign is part of his work as priest.”)

R.S.: It would be good if (the women) had talked about it more, but the problem remains the same, the great lack of real information about those years.

(The Resistance) corresponds to the first moment of awakening of the feminist movement in Italy.  As Giuliana Gadola Beltrami says, feminism was born in the Resistance and this film in some way recounts a parallel Resistance.

But the post-war period did not maintain its promises.  The women in the film who are asked “Why did you do it?’ answer “Because I wanted to be free, because I didn’t like the life I was living.”  But after the Liberation they found an Italy in which there wasn’t room for female emancipation.  Many of them continued to work in politics but they found themselves living a forced return to the home.  Their reflections, sometimes bitter, recall a forgotten piece of our history.  (End of interview).

There were many women who participated in various ways and levels in the struggle for Liberation as combatants or couriers.  Very many helped the partisans, they hid them, nursed and fed them, maintained contacts, and worked to save Jews and fugitives.

Following is a partial list of women partisans from the “Triveneto” who were awarded the Gold Medal for Military Valor.  Their noms de guerre are in parentheses. It is  taken from the “Notizie dell’Istituto” (Istituto Veneziano per la Storia della Resistenza e della Societa’ Contemporanea), April 2003.  To mention some of these women is not to imply their superiority to the men, nor to diminish the courage of other women, but merely to put faces of real people onto some of the monuments, especially the one that goes underwater every few tides in Venice.

Rita Rosani (real name Rosenzweig) was a Jew from Trieste.  She fought at Verona, where she created, along with Colonel Ricca, a group on the mountain Comun de Negrar.  In September, 1944, she and her group were surrounded by 500 Germans and Fascists.  Urged to hide and flee because she was a woman, Rita continued to fight, and was killed. E. Meneghetti dedicated the  poem “La Rita more” in the Veronese dialect to her. (blog Partigiana ANPI)

Now for some less appalling news.

Paola Del Din, who joined the Osoppo Brigade in 1943.  Do not let the smile fool you, she’s already way past you.  (Federazione Italiana Associazioni Partigiane)
Paola Del Din (center), before a jump. Her book is entitled “The Right to Speak, Paola Del Din, a life on the front lines from the Resistance to the Cold War.”

Paola Del Din (“Renata”), was the daughter of an officer of the Alpini (mountain combat infantry regiment); she had just graduated from the University of Padova with a degree in literature when she joined her brother in the Resistance.

After training as a parachutist with the English Parachute Regiment, she undertook many dangerous missions, as courier and informer, and was decorated for having completed 11 flights in war.  She was the first Italian military female parachutist, and probably the only Italian woman to make a jump during combat.  On April 9, 1945 she broke her ankle on landing but continued, limping, to deliver documents to the Allied advancing forces, crossing and re-crossing enemy lines.

After the Liberation, she won a scholarship to the University of Pennsylvania where she earned her M.A. degree in literature, and after her return to Italy became a middle-school teacher.  In 1957 she received the maximum Italian military honor with the following motivation: “Beautiful example of a partisan, she knew in every circumstance how to carry out with rare capacity and manly courage (virile ardimento) the assignments entrusted to her, demonstrating always a lofty spirit of sacrifice and a limitless dedication to the cause of liberty.”

She is still going strong at age 96; this undated photo is obviously from at least a few years ago. She is wearing the Gold Medal for Military Valor. (Agoravox)
Tina Anselmi shown as a bicycle courier. I can’t say what purpose such an extremely staged portrait would have served, but at least we see how she looked then, bare legs and all. (Biografie di donne protagoniste del loro tempo).

Tina Anselmi (“Gabriella”), born in Castelfranco Veneto, was part of a group of high school students in Bassano del Grappa who were forced to witness the hanging of 31 partisans as reprisal by the Nazis on September 26, 1944.  Not long after, at age 17, she joined the Resistance as part of the Cesare Battisti Brigade.  (Note: She was not decorated with the Gold Medal for Military Valor, but she earned a boatload of other honors.)

After the war she earned a degree in literature and became an elementary-school teacher, but was active in the Christian trade movements and rose through the political ranks to become, in 1976, the first woman minister in the Italian government — Minister for Labor and Social Services, then Minister for Health.

She is best known for having been the main proposer of Italian laws on equal opportunity, something she fought for throughout her political life.  In 1977 she passed a bill which recognized fathers as primary caregivers for their children.  In the same year, Anselmi was a key supporter of a successful major piece of legislation on gender parity in employment.  She chaired the National Equal Opportunities Commission until 1994, and played a significant role in the introduction of Italy’s National Health Service.  Her lifetime of political work led to her being proposed, several times, as candidate for President of the Republic.

“She was an honest person,” one man told me. “She was clean.” (Antimafia Duemila)
In June, 2016, a stamp was issued — the first ever to be dedicated to a living person — in honor of Tina Anselmi on the 40th anniversary of her appointment as the first woman government minister.  The text is the oath of office.  Tina Anselmi died at age 89 on Nov. 1, 2016.

Taking all this into consideration, one is left to ponder whether a bronze statue of a faceless corpse represents the deepest significance of the partisan women.  In my view, their incandescent spirits were too strong to be reduced to this crumpled figure.  Dead, yes.  Victims?  Never.

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