Motondoso, Part 3: The How

“Motondoso” has very clear, and essentially simple, causes and effects. Anything moving in water, even eels, will create some kind of wake. The wake is the visible, surface part of the turbulence made by whatever is moving — in the present case, the motor’s propellers. The waves spread out in two directions until they dissipate.

In the case of motorboats in Venice, this fact is exacerbated by:

If it floats, it has to have a motor.  This appears to be the only rule that is universally obeyed.  This is an increasingly common scene in the Grand Canal.  (Photo: Venice Project Center)
If it floats, it has to have a motor. This appears to be the only rule that is universally obeyed. Here is an increasingly common scene in the Grand Canal. (Photo: Venice Project Center)

The number of boats:   There are thousands of registered boats in the city of Venice. There are also many which are unregistered. This number spikes every year in the summer when trippers from the hinterland come into the lagoon to spend their weekends roaming around, often at high speed but always with many horsepower, in motorboats of every shape and tonnage. Teenage boys, particularly  from the islands (by which we mean Sant’ Erasmo, Burano, Murano, are especially addicted to roaming at high speed at all hours with their girlfriends and boomboxes.

On a Sunday in July  a few years ago, a squad of volunteers from the Venice Project Center spread out at observation posts across the lagoon, from Chioggia to Burano. Their mission was to count the number and type of boats that passed their station. Whether it was a million boats passing once or one boat a million times, it didn’t matter. They came home with quite a list: every kind of small-to-smallish boat with motors ranging from 15 to 150 hp, hulking great Zodiacs, large cabin cruisers, ferries, vaporettos, tourist mega-launches, hydrofoils from Croatia, taxis, and more. After 11 hours, from 8:30 AM to 7:30 PM, they   analyzed their data. Result: A motorboat had passed somewhere, on the average, every one and a half seconds.

And if weekday traffic is heavy, weekend traffic is three times greater.

The types of boats: In the last 20 years, motor-powered traffic has doubled; at last count 30,000 trips are made in the city every day; 97 percent of these trips are in boats with motors. (There are currently 12 projects in the works for marinas which will add 8,000 more berths.) Of these 30,000 trips, a little  over half are made by some sort of working boat.  

More than 10,000 daily trips are by taxis or mega-launches, and more than 8,000 are by barges carrying some kind of goods (bricks,  plumbing supplies, cream puffs, etc.).   Studies have shown that if there is one category that over time causes the most damage, it’s not the taxi (I would have bet money on that).   It’s barges.   And they are everywhere.   It’s all barges, all the time.

 

This is the milk truck.
This is the milk truck.

 

Appliances and furniture.
Appliances and furniture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There have always been large heavy boats moving materials in Venice, but when they were propelled by oars, the backing-and-forthing needed to negotiate spaces and corners didn't involve creating heavy vortexes of water.
There have always been large heavy boats moving materials in Venice, but when they were propelled by oars, the backing-and-forthing needed to negotiate spaces and corners didn't involve creating heavy vortexes of water.
When a heavy boat runs into a wall, it can leave quite a calling card. Here is a popular place to tie up your barge while unloading cargo. Who did this? Everybody and nobody.
When a heavy boat runs into a wall, it can leave quite a calling card. Here is a popular place to tie up your barge while unloading cargo. Who did this? Everybody and nobody.

 

Toilet paper, detergent, and other household supplies come ashore with the flick of a few buttons. Life is good, unless you're an old and fragile city.
Toilet paper, detergent, and other household supplies come ashore with the flick of a few buttons. Life is good, unless you're an old and fragile city.
I know they're heavy, but all this boat to carry a few watermelons?
I know they’re heavy, but all this boat to carry a few watermelons?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a peata, the mega-barge that built and maintained Venice well into the 20th century. It was usually rowed by two people, with one of them also at the tiller. And we require motors to do the same thing because we have to have speed.
This is a peata, the mega-barge that built and maintained Venice well into the 20th century. It was usually rowed by two people, with one of them also at the tiller. Now we require motors to do the same thing because we have to have speed.
These men knew and understood the lagoon, its tides and currents and winds, as no one ever will again, and they exploited them rather than fighting against them.
These men knew and understood the lagoon, its tides and currents and winds, as no one ever will again, and they exploited them rather than fighting against them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Traffic patterns: The problem isn’t merely the number and type of boats, but where they are.   Obviously, the more boats you have, the more waves they will create, and where space is limited (most canals in Venice) these waves quickly accumulate into a roiling mass that dissipates with extreme difficulty.   They are forced to go back and forth, hitting anything they come into contact with, until they finally wear themselves out and die.  

There are canals where the waves don’t expire for hours: the Grand Canal (unfortunately), the Rio Novo, the Rio di Noale, the Canale di Tessera toward the airport, the Canale delle Fondamente Nuove, and above all, the Canale della Giudecca.

This map makes it clear why the Giudecca Canal is fated to carry virtually every boat that wants the shortest route from the Maritime Zone/Tronchetto to and from San Marco.
This map makes it clear why the Giudecca Canal is fated to carry virtually every boat that wants the shortest route from the Maritime Zone/Tronchetto to and from San Marco.

This broad, deep channel has become Venice’s Cape Horn. It is a stretch of water 1.5 miles long [2 km] and 1,581 feet [482 m] wide, and is the shortest and fastest way to get from the Maritime Zone (cruise ship passengers, tourist groups from buses at Tronchetto, barges delivering goods of every sort) to the Bacino of San Marco. One study revealed that the biggest waves in the Lagoon are here; an even more recent survey, conducted with a new telecamera system installed by the Capitaneria di Porto, provided some specific numbers: 1,000 boats an hour transit here, or 10,000 in an ordinary workday.   In the summer, there are undoubtedly more, seeing that an “ordinary workday” includes masses of tourists.

One reason there are so many  boats  is due to the large number of barges, rendered necessary by an exotic system for distributing goods. If you are a restaurant and need paper products, they come on a barge. If you need tomato paste, it comes on another barge. If you need wine, it comes on another barge. In one especially busy internal canal, the amount of cargo and number of barges was analyzed, and it turns out that the stuff on 96 barges could have fit onto three.   But never forget the fundamental philosophy: “Io devo lavorare” (I have to work).

The types of boats: Their weight and length. The shape of their hulls. Their motors (horsepower and propeller shape). All these factors influence the waves that they create.

A number of intelligent and effective changes have been proposed over time, most of which that  would not be particularly complicated, but which would cost money.   So far no one has shown that they consider these changes to be  a worthwhile investment.

Example: The original motor taxis (c. 1930), apart from being smaller than those of  today, positioned their motors in the center of the boat. When the hulls (and motors)  became larger, everyone moved the motor to the stern, which immediately creates bigger waves.   But subsequent improvement in motors and their fuels means that today it would be feasible to maintain the current size of the taxi while moving the motor to the center once again, thereby  immediately minimizing its waves.  Feasible, but no one is interested.

Boats this large made of metal may be necessary for certain kinds of heavy labor, but they are hazardous to the city's foundations not only because of the damage they can cause if they run into a building or fondamenta.  The force of their motors during maneuvers, especially at low tide, really scour out the canal sediments, which are either carried away by the tide (potentially weakening foundations) or pushed up against the underwater walls of buildings which easily block sewer outflows.  Blocked sewers cause accumulations of corrosive chemicals inside the building walls, which eventually also damage the structure.
Boats this large made of metal may be necessary for certain kinds of heavy labor, but they are hazardous to the city's foundations. Although they don't create noticeable waves in the smaller canals because they are going slowly, they contribute to the wave damage in several ways. One is by the chunks they take out of walls if they mistake a maneuver, thereby opening the pathway to waves from smaller boats. Another is the force of their motors during maneuvers, especially at low tide, which can suck the earth out from under the sidewalks. Or the force can push the canal sediment up against the underwater walls of buildings where they plug up sewer outflows. Blocked sewers cause accumulations of corrosive chemicals inside the building walls, which eventually also damage the structure.

Speed: This is utterly fundamental. Speed limits were introduced in 2002 to confront the already serious problem of the waves; the average legal range, depending on what canal you’re in, is between 5-7 km/h. But tourist mega-launches, barges, taxis — almost every motorized boat in Venice has the same need: To get where they’re going as quickly as possible.  

This need has been imposed by the demands of mass tourism, which involves moving the maximum amount of cargo (people, laundry, bottled water, etc.) often many times during the day. Everyone makes up a timetable which suits them and then makes it work.

Studies by the Venice Project Center have revealed several speedy facts in crisp detail.

  1. The height of the waves increases exponentially as speed increases. A small barge traveling at 5 km/h would produce a wake about 2 cm high. The same boat going at 10 km/h produces a wake of nearly 15 cm. (Multiply the speed by 2, multiply the wake by 7.)
  2. Virtually all boats exceed the speed limit. The average speed on all boats in all canals was 12 km/h, which is more than 7 km/h over the maximum speed limit.
  3. Therefore, reducing the speed of the boats would drastically decrease the size of their wakes.

Speed limits would have a positive effect (if they were obeyed) but only if certain laws of hydrodynamics were taken into account, such as the one governing the wake produced relative to the weight of the boat. Here the speed limits have been adjusted to permit the vaporettos (waterbuses), among the heaviest daily craft, to go — not slower, which would be correct — but as fast as the timetable requires.

You can change the laws on speed limits all you want —  you’ll never change the laws of physics.  

Oh yes: there will be waves.

Next:  Part Four: The lagoon experience

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The Befana: Panevin tonight

The Befana, that bountiful old beldam, has more work to do than just to bring goodies to the kids and carry away the holidays.  

On January 5 (the eve of the feast of the Epiphany — the eve being the day on which the profane elements of a festival are usually celebrated) several ancient rituals  are observed in Italy going under various names.   In the Veneto these customs are knotted together under the generic term panevin (pan-eh-VEEN).   And the focal activity isn’t bread and wine — though there are naturally comestibles — but to brusar la vecia (broo-ZAR ya  VEH-cha).   Burn the old woman.    

If you were to be in Venice on the night of January 5 and smelled smoke, you might want to check with someone before calling the firemen.   Tonight, in fact, if the wind is from the east, I will be able to step outside and smell the smoke coming from bonfires along the lagoon’s farming coastline.  

Technically speaking, this sort of agricultural festival would more appropriately be observed toward March, closer to the beginning of the annual cycle of cultivation, and not during what is still pretty much the dead of winter.   In a few communities they do wait till the exact mid-point of Lent to “burn the old woman.”   I suspect it’s because by then they’re desperate for some kind of festivity.

The central element of panevin is a bonfire composed of pieces of dead wood (from grapevines, olive trees, or anything else you have pruned or otherwise dismembered to encourage its growth), and atop this bonfire, tied to the stake which holds the mass of leftover wood together, is the effigy of an old woman, the Befana.   Yes, she too is intended to go up in flames.

This photograph, not taken by me, shows the size of the bonfire in Novoli as well as the beginning of the blaze, which is set from within this mountain of wood.
This photograph, not taken by me, shows the size of the bonfire in Novoli as well as the beginning of the blaze, which is set from within this mountain of wood. The burning figure is of St. Anthony Abbot.

Then again, in some towns, such as Novoli,  the people burn their bonfire, a phenomenal ziggurat  36 meters [118 feet] high of  dead vine branches, on January 17 in honor of St. Anthony Abbot, a major agricultural deity — sorry, I mean saint.      I have my own memories of being there in 2003 researching “Italy Before the Romans” (National Geographic, January 2005).   They let me climb to the top, the first woman — and an American, no less — ever to be permitted to do this.   The next night the fire fizzled almost completely and I got out of town early, to avoid any recriminations of having brought bad luck.   But back to the vecia.

Naturally any custom that strikes roots down to this level of antiquity contains several aspects, some contradictory, and not easy to confirm.   But the general consensus is that bonfires played a central role in the ancient rituals of the Celts, who left other marks on  the Veneto; the fire evoked, if not incited, the return of the sun from the solstice and the gradual lengthening and warming of the days.   In the Christian religion, Epiphany was the day on the Julian calendar which coincided with December 25 on the Gregorian.   (I know that December 25 is not the winter solstice, but I didn’t invent these customs.)   And then the idea was planted/grafted/germinated spontaneously to hold the bonfire on Epiphany in order to light the way to Bethlehem for the Three Kings, who had traversed a bit too afar and gotten lost.

So we have to have fire, partly to represent/propitiate the sun, and partly because we’ve got loads of dead wood and other useless stuff that has to be incinerated anyway.   Lino remembers when people would improvise their own bonfires right here in the city, in the neighborhood campos.   As you can imagine, the firemen eventually put a stop to that.

Somebody or something has to serve as the sacrificial figure — deities require sacrifice — and an old human easily represents the old year, the old sins, the old crud and detritus and misfortune of the year just past.   Some theories posit that the figure represents winter.   Throw it all on there; all this stuff needs to be destroyed and fire in itself, besides being impressively effective in the destruction department,  contains large amounts of symbolic meaning focused on purification.

Why does the figure have to be a woman?   I’m still seeking the  reason(s) for that one.   One of the few I’ve found so far says that the female figure represents the Celtic priestess.   There is also the point that Strenia (or Strenua),  a Sabine goddess of strength and endurance adopted by the Romans, was  venerated at the beginning of the year (one custom was the exchange of gifts; a Christmas gift is still called a strenna).   Hence a woman.   Let’s move on.

So we’ve got a fire, therefore naturally we’ve got smoke.   And sparks.   There will be a breeze.   Now we come to the core of the ceremony, which is to study the direction the sparks are blown in order to predict how this year’s crops will fare.  

 

The  video above was made in Vittorio Veneto, a town about 80 km [50 miles] from Venice, toward the mountains.   One  hint  are the men with the single black feather in their wool hats who are distributing the refreshments; these are members (or ex-members) of the Alpini, the mountain regiment of the Army.      I’m sorry about the fruity TV music — it isn’t anything you would hear played at this event.  

There are versions of the prognostication formula in scores of regional dialects, but the one I hear around Venice goes like this:   “Se le falive (fa-EE-veh) va a marina/tol su saco e va a farina/se le falive va a montagne/tol su saco e va a castagne.”   “If the sparks go toward the sea (east), take your sack and go to make flour (wheat); if the sparks go toward the mountains (west), take your sack and go gather chestnuts.”

Thus: Eastward-blowing sparks mean a good year is coming.   If they head west, you’re going to be reduced to making your flour (bread, sustenance) from chestnuts, which is pretty much your last resort before starving.   The fact that some not-bad dishes can be made with chestnut flour doesn’t change the fact that wheat is much, much better.

Let me note that the formula of divination in some areas, while being essentially the same, carries the opposite meaning: East is bad, west is good.   So don’t blame me if your sparks don’t turn out to have told the truth.

Naturally all this burning and auguring is an excuse for a party (very few things here are not).   We went one year to a small town on the mainland to celebrate the panevin, and after we had studied the sparks and coughed a while from the smoke, we went to the makeshift tables where vin brule’ (hot spiced wine) and pinza were being offered.

Wine needs no justification, and drinking it hot in sub-zero darkness is a great thing.   If you haven’t got alcohol you haven’t got a party, and you can find easily find vin brule’ all winter.

But this is the only time of year you’ll get pinza.   It is essentially the traditional winter-Veneto-panevin fruitcake, the only difference being that people actually eat pinza.   This was the classic Christmas sweet before panettone horned in; it involves cornmeal, wheat flour, dried figs, anise seeds and bits of candied fruit.   My trusty cookbook of old Venetian recipes includes raisins, sugar, pine nuts, and two eggs.   Other recipes invoke walnuts, fennel seeds, and grappa.   (Traditional offerings to Strenia were figs, dates and honey).    However it’s made you won’t want a big wedge, it’s got a specific gravity rivaled only by mercury.

I hope you have a superb 2010, no matter where your sparks blew.

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Make way for the Befana

IMG_5564 befana compFor most of us, New Year’s Day represents the end of the holiday season.   Not here.   We still have the Epiphany to celebrate (January 6), and it comes swooping through, not so much in the person of the Re Magi (Three Kings) whom we recall brought gold, frankincense and myrrh to the infant Jesus, but instead in the person of a broom-borne hag called the “Befana,” a name that got squeezed out of Epifania (Eh-pee-FAH-neeyah).    

In Venice she is also sometimes referred to as the marantega barola (ma-RAHN-teh-ga ba-RO-la),  or wizened old crone.   In ordinary life you might hear a particularly obnoxious busybody referred to  as a marantega, regardless of her age, though the implication of decrepitude would add an extra fillip of insult to a younger person.  

But despite the unpleasant connotations of hagdom, the Befana is all smiles, a benevolent old biddy  who flies by night and comes down the chimney (or through the keyhole) to fill with candy and little toys the stockings the children have left attached to the hearth mantelpiece or some other convenient place.   (Bad children, at least in theory,  will get pieces of coal, but bad children seem to have become only a holiday myth.)  

IMG_5563 befana compHer imminent arrival explains all the Halloween-like witches you will have seen cluttering pastry-shops, bakeries, bars and cafes, supermarkets, and anywhere else someone with small people might be likely to pass.   Sometimes, but not always, she will be tied or stapled to a stocking already stuffed with assorted chocolates, chewing gum, hard candies, and any other little item that could send you into sugar shock.

This stocking — once a  genuine article of clothing, now  usually acquired prepackaged  — is  called a calza caena (KAL-za ka-EYN-ah).   “Calza” means stocking, and “caena” is Venetian for catena, a word usually used  to mean a chain, but which  is also used in knitting.  

“La Befana vien de note,” goes the local version of her classic little  doggerel, “co le scarpe tute rote/vestita a la romana/viva viva la Befana.” (The Befana comes at night, with her shoes all falling apart, dressed like a Roman woman, long live the Befana.)   The shoes are in tatters because she’s obviously poor, and she’s dressed like a ciociara, a woman not literally from the Eternal City but from an area of the Roman hinterland called the Ciociaria,  where the farmers’ wives wore crude leather sandals, big skirts and a scarf tied around their head.   (No pointed hats, thanks anyway.)   Why characterize a universal character as coming from the fields of Lazio?   I’ll have to get back to you on that.   She just is.

IMG_5574 calza compThe fact that Father Christmas, Saint Nicholas, and assorted other gift-givers have already  come through town  hasn’t made a dent in this old custom, and so Venetian children today can, at least theoretically,  scorch the holiday earth from December 6 to January 6.     The term “enough,” let alone “too many,”  has never been known to apply to presents.

It bears repeating: All this bounty is a fairly recent phenomenon.   Children of Lino’s vintage would get  nuts in their stocking, and an orange was always stuffed down into the toe.   He  says some children really did get bits of coal.   Homely simple items, mainly things that were good for you.

IMG_5587 befana compBut the children were hospitable — they left out refreshments for the flyby Befana: A plate of pasta e fasioi (pasta and beans) and a glass of red wine, just the thing to warm an old lady stuck out in the cold all night.   The plate and glass were empty the next morning, thereby confirming her existence, but eventually any child began to make some calculations.   If this Befana eats beans at every house, then (A) how does she avoid  death by explosion and (B) how the hell does she get manage to get airborne?

I don’t know — though I sort of doubt — that kids leave out the beans and wine anymore.   Maybe the Befana is watching her cholesterol by now.   But as for the coal, never fear: Some shops sell a confection that looks like coal but is basically sugar darkened with something innocuous.   Mustn’t upset the kids.

So fill up that calza caena, brace yourself for the last little holiday rampage, then you can finally put away the decorations, throw out that desiccated tree, and intone the appropriate incantation: L’Epifania/tute le feste porta via (Epiphany carries away all the holidays.)

IMG_5588 befana comp

IMG_5586 befana comp

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Holidays, the end is in sight

Technically speaking, the holidays aren’t over yet; the long trajectory of festivities ends here on January 6, the Feast of the Epiphany, which I will  tell you about in another post.   But the end is in sight.

Here we hopscotch through December from saint to saint: St. Nicholas (Dec. 6), St. Lucy (Dec. 13), Christmas, St. Stephen (Dec. 26, known as Boxing Day in the Anglo world) and now today, St. Sylvester, or New Year’s Eve.   Though the first two only get noticed by people who bear those names (or in the case of Lucy, have eye problems), the last three get more attention.   At first it seems odd to refer to New Year’s Eve as “San Silvestro,” but you get used to it.

New Year’s Eve and/or Day are referred to as Capodanno, or “head” — or perhaps “boss” — “of the year.”

Christmas  as we observe it  is a fairly recent invention, developed (if not created outright) by people who want to sell things for the benefit of people who have extra money.   Christmas cards and/or trees, Tiny Tim, Rudolph, even Santa would be undecipherable to our forebears, at least if they’re Venetian.  

Like many events here, Christmas and New Year are the offspring of prosperity, and people of Lino’s vintage notice the difference.    Not that they were more pious, though perhaps they were, but because for a long time the vicissitudes of life (such as two world wars) limited the common perception of what the holiday could entail.   They stuck to the basics, and these did not include presents.

The simple "focaccia" isn't your best option if you want to save money, as they're hand-made in small numbers by local pastry wizards. Eighteen euros a kilo works out to $12 a pound.
The simple "focaccia" isn't your best option if you want to save money, as they're hand-made in small numbers by local pastry wizards. Eighteen euros a kilo works out to $12 a pound.

“What presents?”  Lino snorted.   “Who had presents?”   Christmas Eve?   An ordinary night like any other.   Christmas Day? You went to the special mass at 9:00 AM, then the entire family — and in those days that easily reached double digits — squeezed around the table and feasted on food that was at least slightly out of the ordinary.   Tortellini (handmade by his mother and sisters) in slow-simmered meat broth was often the star.   In the evening, roast veal and polenta, traditions we continue except for the “handmade” part.   Lots of family racket, but pretty low on novelties, frivolities, or anything that required batteries or assembly.

Panettone?   “It didn’t exist,” Lino stated.   “It’s an invention that came after the war,” like so many things.  His  sisters might have made a “fugassa,” or focaccia — a  simple  raised cake full of butter and eggs.   He doesn’t remember.

If you want panettone, you've got almost too much choice -- if such a concept exists anymore.  Filled with candied fruit, or chocolate, or Grand Marnier, or Limoncello -- one local ice-cream vendor was even offering to stuff your panettone with ice cream.
If you want panettone, you've got almost too much choice -- if such a concept exists anymore. Filled with candied fruit, or chocolate, or Grand Marnier, or Limoncello -- one local ice-cream vendor was offering to stuff your panettone with ice cream.

He does remember one particular Christmas Eve, somewhere in the  late Sixties or early Seventies.  (Obviously his childhood was long gone.)  He was sitting at dinner that evening at home when they began to hear ships’ whistles blowing.   A lot.   Finally he said, “Let’s go out and  see what’s going on.”  

They walked out to the Zattere and there, in the Giudecca Canal, was a tugboat shining its spotlight on the mast of another tug which was almost completely underwater.   The light was to aid in the rescue attempt (fruitless) and also to warn other boats to keep clear.

There are two theories about the accident.   Either the tug was towing a ship and the tension on the towline  slackened somehow, causing the ship to run into the tug, or somehow the tension wasn’t kept steady and a sudden jerk of the line caused the tug to capsize.   In any case, by Christmas morning the two victims still hadn’t been recovered.

As for New Year’s, Eve and Day, they passed virtually unremarked by anyone.   At a certain point in history the midnight moment began to be marked by all the ships in the port of Venice blowing their horns (that must have sounded totally great).   Fireworks?   Special dinners out?   Champagne?   They got here tomorrow, as the saying goes.   People had plain old dinner and went to bed.   Me, I’d be just as glad to return to that approach; I hate having to pretend to celebrate, especially when I have no clue as to what, exactly, we’re supposed to be celebrating.  

Or you can just take home several hundred of the classic sort.
Or you can just take home several hundred of the classic sort.

For those who might want to imagine a festive New Year’s Eve dinner in Venice, too bad you’re missing out on what Arrigo Cipriani is laying on at Harry’s Bar.   The newspaper was reporting on the general markdowns being offered  by restaurants around the city  even on this special meal, and made a point of noting that even Harry’s was giving a discount.   This year the repast is costing a mere 500 euros [$716.66} per mouth, as opposed to last year’s  1000. Very high into the yikes zone even if the economy hadn’t burned up on re-entry.

For that little fistful of euros, diners will engulf champagne, caviar, truffle ravioli, tournedos, and the “dessert of the house,” which at that price ought to be garnished with whipped flakes of gold.   I assume it won’t be Floating Island.

Despite my stated aversion to compulsory celebration, I have to say that I spent the most unforgettable New Year’s Eve of my life here in Venice.   (You may say “Well sure — most beautiful city in the world,” etc. etc.   That is a comment which does not take into account how repellent mass events can be in a city this small, especially when the mass is mainly composed of atrociously drunk people who think they’re having fun.   Smashing glass bottles  is almost as entertaining as setting off firecrackers.   It would appear.)

It was the fateful passage between millennia, the last night of 1999 and first morning of 2000.   We had dinner at home with two friends, Sarah from Washington and Caroline from London, then we bundled up and climbed into Lino’s little wooden topetta.  

They sat in the center, while we rowed to the Bacino of San Marco.   There was a surprising number of boats out (it wasn’t especially cold), but I guess it was that millennium aspect that drew them.   As it drew us, because it’s the only time we’ve ever done this.

The fireworks began their aerial onslaught; I thought it was great to be right under them till I discovered that falling bits of blazing incendiary material are essentially little bombs.   Moving down-range,   we  counted down to midnight, then we popped the bubbly — a large bottle of Veuve Clicquot, which Lino kept referring to as “French spumante,” no matter how many times I tried to straighten him out.   I wish I could remember what kind soul had given it to us.

But this far I could have anticipated much of this.   Being on the water at night is always special, ditto fireworks and friends.   But I hadn’t anticipated what came next.

We were done with the toasting and the pyrotechnics.   Time to go home.   But we didn’t take the shortest route — Lino headed us toward the Piazza San Marco where the mobs were in full cry.   Lights!   Action!     Barf and pee!   Scream and hurl hard breakable things!   Fling firecrackers and see if you can really damage something!  

We rowed slowly past the Piazza and  up the rio de la Canonica, past the Doge’s Palace,  slipping apprehensively under the Ponte de la Paglia which was jammed with people who might have thought it would be fun to throw something (bottles, garbage, themselves) down into our boat.  

As the sound of rioting faded behind us, we threaded our way along the network of dark, empty canals; the canals became darker and  quieter as we moved deeper into the city.   We glided between looming, slumbering palaces, and the only sound was the delicate  Plff. Plff.  of our oars and the barely perceptible melody of the water slipping under the boat.    The silence seemed like something alive, like whatever  remains inside a huge bell that’s still vibrating even when the tone has disappeared.    

Venice seemed like an entirely different place, a shadow city hidden within the blare and clang of day.   It was as if  the city was lifting a veil as we passed, letting us discern, however faintly, the power and the grandeur that are concealed in a place that when the sun comes up is reduced to postcard cutouts.   It was an elegant, seductive sort of gesture — if an entity so magnificent could evince anything so intimate.   I could feel the veils being lowered, one by one,  behind us.   Nobody spoke.

Sometimes I'm not sure that it's not us that are the shadows here.
Sometimes I'm not sure that it's not us that are the shadows here.

We came out into the Grand Canal, back to lights and noise and now.    Much as I may hate the touristic mayhem, even on ordinary days,  I’m not quite as upset  by it  as I once was, because I know that Venice has managed to elude our grasp.   I won’t say that she’s waiting to come out again — we probably make that impossible.  

It’s enough for me to know she’s still in there.

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