Carnival (or Carnevale, if you prefer) isn’t something I gorge on every year; I tend to take a few little nibbles around the edges. And this year wouldn’t have been any different except that a former colleague from National Geographic, photographer Tomasz Tomaszewski, said he was coming with a friend to make pictures, and asked if I could give a logistical hand.
For three intense days (Thursday to Saturday) we wandered around — if you can call eight miles a day “wandering” — and it turned out to be surprisingly entertaining. This doesn’t mean I can’t wait till next year to do it all again, but either the quality of the costumes was higher than in some years past, or I’ve changed in some indefinable way, or something.
I hope you enjoy these snaps, because the story of Carnevale 2020 has not had a happy ending. Northern Italy (specifically the regions of Lombardia and Veneto) are in the tightening clutch of the COVID-19 epidemic. On Sunday there were only 20,000 revelers out of an expected 100,000.
In fact, the curtain fell on Carnevale two days early – Sunday nght at midnight, to be precise. I don’t know that this has ever happened, but missing the culmination of festivities on Tuesday (Martedi’ Grasso) has certainly made the scheduled participants unhappy. The 12 Marias are in tears because now we’ll never know who was the fairest of them all.
That’s just the beginning. The governor of the Veneto has decreed many decrees prohibiting events or places of any sort where people might gather in groups larger than (insert small number here). Until March 1 the schools, universities, and museums are closed. There will be no masses celebrated in church, even on Ash Wednesday, not even in the basilica of San Marco. Sporting events are all canceled.
But let me share a look back at a few sunny days when Carnival was fully fledged and nobody was worrying about anything more important than where to finally find a place to sit down.
So very glad you’re back! Really missed your acutely observed comments, and keen eye for the image that really works.
We’re not fond of Venice during Carnival, it’s a period, like the warmer months, that we avoid on our visits, but there must have been many wilted feathers with the curtailment of it all. I must admit, I can’t see the point of going simply to dress up and strut around, parading without a role to play- and if the underpinnings were to be authentic, some of those outfits would have been hell to wear, not only from weight, but also by ordeal by corset!
I’d not have been happy if I had by some mischance, been there, as I understand all the places like the Accademia are closed currently, and I never fail to find some detail new to me in there every time I go.
Thank you for returning. You have been missed.
Were I still the editor of a magazine (remember those?), you would be my Venice correspondent. No, my Veneto correspondent. No, no, my Italy correspondent. Oh, what the hell, just go anywhere and send your wonderful words and pictures. The check is in the mail.
We were delighted to get your email today and be able to access this site, YOU ARE BACK!!! How wonderful! Our day is brightened and we shall celebrate 🎉 with a glass or two of Proseco 🥂. We have greatly missed your blog. Thank you for keeping our beloved Venice alive in our minds.
Like Ella B above I don’t really get the point of dressing up just to strut around piazza san Marco, but I’m glad someone does. The pictures and some of the outfits are wonderful. The two ladies in tabari(?) was another view of carnevale, seldom seen outside Venice. I guess everyone can revel in their own way. Lovely!
16 Comments
So very glad you’re back! Really missed your acutely observed comments, and keen eye for the image that really works.
We’re not fond of Venice during Carnival, it’s a period, like the warmer months, that we avoid on our visits, but there must have been many wilted feathers with the curtailment of it all. I must admit, I can’t see the point of going simply to dress up and strut around, parading without a role to play- and if the underpinnings were to be authentic, some of those outfits would have been hell to wear, not only from weight, but also by ordeal by corset!
I’d not have been happy if I had by some mischance, been there, as I understand all the places like the Accademia are closed currently, and I never fail to find some detail new to me in there every time I go.
Thank you for returning. You have been missed.
Were I still the editor of a magazine (remember those?), you would be my Venice correspondent. No, my Veneto correspondent. No, no, my Italy correspondent. Oh, what the hell, just go anywhere and send your wonderful words and pictures. The check is in the mail.
Well, I may not be worthy of the praise, but I more than deserve the check. Thanks!!
Lovely to have you back!
Yay!! You’re back! Delighted to re-sign up to subscribe, thank you so much for letting me know.
So glad you found me! I would miss your blogs so much!
Oh Boy! At last! Another edition of IANMTU has finally arrived. And, as always, just like her adopted city’s Carnival, it’s a Grand event.
Who knew “chicken wire” and ” glamorous” could be found in the same article?
Of course, being a writer-extraordinaire, Ms. Zwingle could captivate us by simply retelling the story of her latest trip to the corner grocers.
And we await your selfie of YOUR costume, dots or not.
I accept the challenge. Be careful what you wish for.
Oh Boy! At Last! My missing IANMTU newsletter has shown up.
And, just like the canals, it’s a Grand thing indeed.
For where, other then our Erla’s Venice, does one find “glamor” and “chicken wire” in the same photo?
Of course, Ms. Zwingle – writer extraordinaire that she is – can make a trip to the corner grocer sound like afternoon tea with the Queen.
Heavens, Michael — keep this up and you will permanently block my brain. Thanks, though!
Glad you are back. I filled the subscribed link but I’m not sure it went through.
Dian
We were delighted to get your email today and be able to access this site, YOU ARE BACK!!! How wonderful! Our day is brightened and we shall celebrate 🎉 with a glass or two of Proseco 🥂. We have greatly missed your blog. Thank you for keeping our beloved Venice alive in our minds.
Thanks! I’ll do my best to deserve your enthusiasm. (No pressure….)
Great to have you back Erla!
Like Ella B above I don’t really get the point of dressing up just to strut around piazza san Marco, but I’m glad someone does. The pictures and some of the outfits are wonderful. The two ladies in tabari(?) was another view of carnevale, seldom seen outside Venice. I guess everyone can revel in their own way. Lovely!
Cheers!