Down to the fundamentals.Venetian frittelle (left) and galani. The staff of life for the next two weeks.
My response to Carnival, after all these years, has gradually diminished to what apparently is now the barest of minimums. (Minima, I know. Thank you to my internal pedant, who never sleeps.)
The basics are: Confetti — here known as coriandoli — masks, or some element of disguise, however small — galani and frittelle. And although the official opening day is tomorrow, about which more later, the premonitory signs have been accumulating. I enjoy those little signs almost more than any of the real events themselves. They give a pleasant sense of the overture being played before the curtain rises. Some blithe and whimsical overture, obviously, nothing Wagnerian, though now that I think of it, a doom-laden session of Wagner might be an amusing soundtrack to the surface frivolity. Which would be better? You decide.
I have written various postsover the yearsabout Carnival, as well as an article on the history of this phenomenon for Craftsmanship magazine. More posts can be found stretching back to the frayed edges of time, so I suggest that if you feel like it, just put “carnival” in the search field and search away.
Festoons of ribbons and harlequin-patterned things are strewn in shop windows, restaurants, grocery stores, hair salons…. I challenge you to open your eyes and look in any direction without seeing something carnivalesque.Now the supermarket is getting into the act. Did we need cookies shaped like carnival masks? Need? We don’t NEED any of these things. Bring them on!You prefer munching your mask filled with raspberry jam? The CONAD supermarket chain is ready to bring joy and plaque to your heart.One cannot be sure of finding genuine Venetian frittelle — the fads have overwhelmed the classic form, forcing pastry-makers to fill them with cream, zabaione, chocolate, and other ungodly ingredients. But Pasticceria Chiusso in Salizada dei Greci can be counted on to do the Right Thing. These scrumptious spheres remind me of those neat pyramids of cannonballs set up by cannons on battlefields. Not only does the delectable aroma of deep-fried dough greet you halfway down the street, but Maria, the owner’s wife, has helpfully labeled them as Venetian….…in Venetian: “Venessiane.” Perfect.Italy is seething with carnival characters, very ancient, and very specific to their region and history. Here are the main ones.
If you feel you must have a mask, you could buy these. Masks for your ears.
I suppose I’ll be checking back on the Carnival circuit before it’s over. Meanwhile, let the chips fall where they may.
Chips, specifically made to fall. Do not use them wisely, you’ll spoil the fun.
So happy you mention the fritelle. When we first got here they were small and lovely. Now they are ‘colossi’ and akin to Krispy Kreme or Dunkin’ Donuts yuck. Our neighbour made them nuggets of yum. We usually stay away as much as possible but I do enjoy walking through Venice early of a morning and seeing the coriandoli beneath my feet. Kind of like the glistening snow of my childhood.
The upside of the Wagner is that it would last the entire duration of Carnivale, perhaps well into Lent.
But who can resist the Rossini’s perky terraced creschendi?
It seems to be a draw; perhaps the weather will decide.
For the sake of those whose livelihoods depend on Carnivale, let us hope for sunny Neapolitan weather rather than Teutonic gloom.
Carnevale again! Sophia and I found some youtube clips of the corteo on the Canal Grande. Maybe I should try my hand at making Galani this year? I seem to remember you doing it a few years back. Here in Sweden we have already started with the Semla which is that almond filled, creamy, sweet wheat bun that we like to indulge in before lent.
Try your hand at galani if you have hours to dedicate to it, and plenty of space for rolling out the dough, because you want them to be as thin as possible and they will expand, obviously, as you keep rolling them. There’s the fried version (my favorite), but you can also bake them. I’ve never tried that. Semla sound absolutely delectable. I’ll be right over.
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So happy you mention the fritelle. When we first got here they were small and lovely. Now they are ‘colossi’ and akin to Krispy Kreme or Dunkin’ Donuts yuck. Our neighbour made them nuggets of yum. We usually stay away as much as possible but I do enjoy walking through Venice early of a morning and seeing the coriandoli beneath my feet. Kind of like the glistening snow of my childhood.
The upside of the Wagner is that it would last the entire duration of Carnivale, perhaps well into Lent.
But who can resist the Rossini’s perky terraced creschendi?
It seems to be a draw; perhaps the weather will decide.
For the sake of those whose livelihoods depend on Carnivale, let us hope for sunny Neapolitan weather rather than Teutonic gloom.
Oh dear, how miserable wet, dirty drifts of aging confetti look. That seems a sad feature of Venice – and other places – around this season.
Wonderful!
Carnevale again! Sophia and I found some youtube clips of the corteo on the Canal Grande. Maybe I should try my hand at making Galani this year? I seem to remember you doing it a few years back. Here in Sweden we have already started with the Semla which is that almond filled, creamy, sweet wheat bun that we like to indulge in before lent.
All the best from Solna
Try your hand at galani if you have hours to dedicate to it, and plenty of space for rolling out the dough, because you want them to be as thin as possible and they will expand, obviously, as you keep rolling them. There’s the fried version (my favorite), but you can also bake them. I’ve never tried that. Semla sound absolutely delectable. I’ll be right over.