For whatever reason, Carnival does not attract me anymore.
Headlines such as the one yesterday reporting on Sunday’s attendance: “100,000 yesterday for the opening of Carnival” could have something to do with my lack of enthusiasm. Headlines such as one today: “The purse-cutters have arrived,” referring to the young pregnant Bosnian women who now, to expedite the lifting of your wallet, have taken to slashing your handbag, could also be relevant. Crowds, however amusingly dressed, make life awkward, at best, for most people except other dressed-up persons and, of course, the purse-cutters.
But let’s do a fast rewind on the festivities so far. Last Saturday — the day which opens the 11-day clambake — we saw the first major organized entertainment: The Procession of the Marias.
The main reason we saw it is because it takes place mere steps from our front door. Also, the weather was beautiful and it was great to be outside. Also, the participants outnumbered the spectators (or almost).
The program is simple. Everyone lines up in Campo San Pietro and wends their way slowly, and with great clamor, across the wooden bridge and along the fondamenta to the foot of via Garibaldi. Here the space opens comfortably and everyone has a chance to see the many costumed processioners, and the Marias themselves, close up.
“Everyone” includes the Marias (obviously), the phalanx of young men assigned to carry the Marias, and abundant and varied troupes of trumpeters, drummers, knights, commoners, banner-twirlers, and the doge and his wife and some Venetian senators and councilors, all in vaguely Renaissance garb.
The girls are loaded onto their respective wooden platforms, hoisted on the shoulders of their bearers, and carried at the head of the procession all the way to the Piazza San Marco, where they mount the stage and are generally admired and photographed. On February 16, the penultimate day of Carnival, the Maria of 2015 will be chosen and crowned.
In case this doesn’t sound like much of a big deal, the Maria of today will become the “Angel” of next year, sliding down a wire from the top of the campanile of San Marco to the pavement on the opening day of Carnival.
Here are some things I enjoyed seeing this year. Yes, there were things I enjoyed. Briefly.
Erla,
I just wanted to thank you so much for your musing ( for want of a better word ). I absolutely love reading your articles, they are just so true! I am a Venice lover and come as often as possible to stay with my friend on the Lido. I have experienced two carnivales and just loved reading about this one. Thank you again, never fail to make me chuckle.
Oh, I heartily approve and support your choice of THE Maria. I do hope she triumphs. get those votes in, folks. Are you allowed to vote more than once?
But, I wonder if she really wants to dangle above the Piazza mob next year?
Well, I don’t think anybody enters these things thinking, “Gosh, I hope I don’t win.” She has almost certainly already made her peace with the idea of dangling above the mob next year.
As for votes, you can vote every day till Feb. 15. However, I don’t believe the votes really matter; I think they’ve already decided who’s going to win. Most beauty pageants are like that, as I understand. So I’m just going to trust that more important people than I have been smitten with her.
7 Comments
missed it; thanks for taking pictures
How lovely!! Thank you so much for sharing.
Erla,
I just wanted to thank you so much for your musing ( for want of a better word ). I absolutely love reading your articles, they are just so true! I am a Venice lover and come as often as possible to stay with my friend on the Lido. I have experienced two carnivales and just loved reading about this one. Thank you again, never fail to make me chuckle.
Then I have fulfilled my mission. Thanks!
Oh, I heartily approve and support your choice of THE Maria. I do hope she triumphs. get those votes in, folks. Are you allowed to vote more than once?
But, I wonder if she really wants to dangle above the Piazza mob next year?
Well, I don’t think anybody enters these things thinking, “Gosh, I hope I don’t win.” She has almost certainly already made her peace with the idea of dangling above the mob next year.
As for votes, you can vote every day till Feb. 15. However, I don’t believe the votes really matter; I think they’ve already decided who’s going to win. Most beauty pageants are like that, as I understand. So I’m just going to trust that more important people than I have been smitten with her.