Venice: I am not making this up

Food

eating winter and spring

April 6, 2023 19 Comments

A perfect example of this brief moment between seasons: Bruscandoli (wild hops) in the basket (spring!) and the cardi on the right (a winter relative of the artichoke that soon will be on its way out). Speaking of artichokes, do not be lured by the little sign saying “castraure.” The implication, I think, is that they are the first flower off the extraordinary local plant, the “violet artichoke of Sant’ Erasmo.” If these are castraure (cas-trah-OO-reh) they are most certainly not from Sant’ Erasmo. Supposing these morsels came from Sant’ Erasmo (which they haven’t), they would be botoi (BOH-toh-ee), which are good, but are the second-growing edible flower on the artichoke plant. True castraure of the violet artichoke are tiny, much smaller than these robust characters. Also: It’s far too early for artichokes here anyway — what is on sale comes from hothouses elsewhere. Some vendors label them correctly as botoi, but people have somehow become obsessed by castraure. Eat whatever they’re called these days, by all means, but imagining a true castraura in Venice at the end of March is to imagine the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

This is a castraura. When it is cut, the plant will produce a number of botoi, the somewhat larger artichokes on sale in the market in the photo above. Here you can just barely make out the baby botolo beneath the castraura.

Simple design to show what the artichoke plant brings forth (taken from a little book written by a farmer on Sant’ Erasmo). “Botoi” is the plural of “botolo.” To look at the abundance of “castraure” on sale during the season, there would have to be fields here the size of Nebraska. Or one Nebraska and two Leichtensteins.

If all goes well, the “violet artichoke of Sant’ Erasmo” begins to appear in May. Grab them while you can. Watch out for the stabby pointy bit at the tip of each leaf.

Another grinding of culinary gears: Asparagus and melons. The local asparagus has just begun to arrive, but the melons are coming from somewhere probably not in Italy. Their moment in northern Italy, and Venice, is July/August. Note that many labels say “Italia,” but don’t name any more particular location. My main question is not where it comes from, but why you would want to eat a melon in April? Not being sarcastic. Your winter mouth wants pears and oranges. Don’t confuse it.

People sometimes ask us where you can eat well and not pay a fortune. To which Lino always replies: “Your house.”

It’s not as much of a pleasantry as it might seem. Unhappily, I am always struck by how routine, predictable, unimaginative, so many of the restaurant offerings are here. Also expensive, especially when you’re looking at the price/value index. Hence Lino’s risposte.

I am sorry that this situation persists, because anyone who has access to a kitchen and the Rialto market can eat like freaking kings. There are so many delectable, unsung, seasonal products on sale that although I realize you do not intend to spend your priceless Venetian vacation toiling in the kitchen, you really ought to be able to try some of these things somehow. And your kitchen seems to be the only option.

Just now is a wonderfully delicate moment in the vegetable realm. We are balanced perfectly between the old winter-long standbys (looking at you, cauliflower), and the glittering spring offerings. This moment of culinary equipoise is even lovelier because, like spring flowers, you know you don’t have much time to enjoy them. I’m forced to say that seasonal food is being elbowed to one side by an ever-increasing number of out-of-season comestibles, which I ignore. Cherries in January? Nope. Melons in March? WHY?

Before we leave winter behind, here are a few delights that are not cauliflower:

If you like slightly bitter radicchio, reach for these little blossoms. They’re generally called “field radicchio,” but these are cultivated, not wild. In any case they are wonderful.

The little green tufts are definitely cultivated, and are also sold independently of their red cousins. They are a special item that are famously grown in the fields near Roncade (a few miles from Treviso). They are known as the ‘verdon di Roncade” (the big green from Roncade). They have a sort of generic lettuce-y flavor, and the leaves are slightly thick. Not so much crunchy as chewy. Really good if you’ve had enough cabbage by now.

This shows up briefly in February. The “cavolo” is not literally a cabbage; its more correct name is “broccolo fiolaro” because you eat the tender parts of the plant they call “fioi” (children) in Venetian. Creazzo is in the province of Vicenza. Nothing against spinach, but this is better. Toothier.

This mass of greenery appears briefly now. They didn’t even bother to write its name — “rosolina” — perhaps because its stay is so brief. I was told that this is the poppy plant before it flowers. My source said that when the blooms begin to appear May-ish), the leaves become too bitter to eat. Meanwhile, they have a charming little nutty undertone. Note to purists: There is a plant known as rosolina, defined as an “evergreen shrub with white flowers.” That’s somebody else’s rosolina. I could have devoted quite a lot of time to researching this, but have stopped for now.

I suppose anyone who has been to Venice in the winter knows the “late” (tardivo) radicchio from Treviso. Delicately bitter, it makes a divine risotto (among other things). In January we went to the Festival of Radicchio in Mirano, near Venice, where the students at the agricultural school “8 Marzo Konrad Lorenz” showed us each step of the production process. I thought it just came out of the ground like this. So very wrong….

The plant grows in the field till harvest time, then is brought to the school to be prepared for sale. The water has to be changed several times while the boxes are waiting for the next step. Yes, it looks like this, a mass of botanical clumps run amok. But hidden inside is the radicchio we want.

You see the delicate white and red leaves inside the other leaves.

The crates are brought indoors where the students demonstrated essentially how you butcher them.

At this point they still look pretty grotty.

Just slice all that rootage away and trim the stem.

A good rinse and they’re just about ready to be boxed and sent to your trusty vegetable vendor. Whatever the price may be, I’d say it’s justifiable.

There are always a few pushy items that want to be considered spring treats, but have anticipated their cue by several acts. They aren’t local, obviously.

I have no idea where these radishes came from, but while they are trying to impress me with their multicolored marvelousness, they’re still here too early.

Even the normal red radishes are upstarts, as are the peas in the crate next to them. We’ll be seeing local peas in May, when we will gorge on that trusty Venetian standby, “risi e bisi” (rice and peas).

This is the first time I have ever seen morel mushrooms here in Venice. They are known as a spring mushroom, I discover, unlike the others that come out in the fall. They can be cultivated, but I can’t say that’s the case here. A minor mystery which I will not pursue much.

And the dependable heralds of spring:

Not a plant, but I couldn’t resist adding this. An April Fool’s Day prank here is called “pesce d’aprile”,” or April fish. I will get to the bottom of this expression some other time, but meanwhile, the wags at the pasticceria Rosa Salva in Calle Fiubera (San Marco) have created just the sort of fish everybody can enjoy. No bones. Too bad they’re not made all year. A tiny note that makes me smile: They bothered putting on eyes. And white eyes. Which technically ought to mean that they’re cooked, because when you boil or grill a fish, you know it’s done when the eyes turn white. Well, I thought it was funny, anyway.

Bruscandoli (wild hops) on the left, and carletti on the right.

Carletti (Silene rigonfia or Silene vulgaris) are the leaves of a pinkish-whiteish flower that doesn’t take long to appear. These have an almost imperceptible flavor (I’m going to delete “almost”). Lino used to go out and collect them along the Lido shoreline, then throw them into a risotto. I’m all for eating wild but unless they contain some fabulous antioxidant properties I can’t see the point of bothering. Still, man does not live by radicchio alone.

Chives, or “barba del frate” (friar’s beard) are usually the first to show up. It used also to be called “sultan’s beard,” but that reference evidently has been retired.

This work of culinary art was in the window of the pastificio Serenissima on the Salizzada dei Greci. Fresh pasta is always a delight, and there are fewer and fewer shops making it. They recently were making truffle tagliatelle. We had to imprison the pasta in a covered glass container on the windowsill, otherwise the entire refrigerator would have reeked of truffle. Truffle milk? Why has nobody thought of this?

Venetian-ness

Always something to see

March 25, 2023 42 Comments

I sometimes wonder if other cities and/or lagoons offer so much just to look at as Venice does, and I’m not talking about palaces and churches. Elsewhere you sometimes have to go in search of wonderful glimpses, but here all you have to do is keep your eyes open and your brain turned on, even if it’s only in neutral. For this to work, though, you’re going to have to put your dang phone away. Otherwise you’ll never see anything.

Remember all the excitement a few weeks ago when the canals were dry? The tide is back, but you need to pay attention to the tide forecast and moor your boat accordingly. As mentioned on a previous occasion, by not leaving enough slack the owner has guaranteed that his boat will be hanging by the neck, plus he will never be able to open those knots. I hope he’s got a good knife handy because cutting is his only option.

Speaking of boats, this relic just across the canal from the strangled boat is looking extremely fine at that magic moment of sunset. During the day it has no glamour at all.

Sunset is a famously great moment. You can tell that by looking at everybody on the fondamenta looking westward making photos.

This fluttery red ribbon came out of nowhere the other day. I can only hope that locks on bridges are no longer a thing because ribbons are lovely. And, unlike locks, they weigh nothing.

I’m guessing this couple is Portuguese: “O nosso amor e’ magico 21-3-23 ap”. Our love is magic. The first day of spring evidently worked its own magic. So heartfelt good wishes to a and to p — I hope your amor continues to flourish even after you leave Venice. You’re not likely to have a romantic canal to count on to keep that glow.

I can only hope that whoever she is going to be spending the day with admires her sartorial perfection. She even harmonizes with the color of the vaporetto’s interior. Impressive. I used to live a life where I too gave important attention to how my outfit came together. I wonder which came first, the bag or the shoes. Maybe the vaporetto.

It’s not that rules are unknown here. It’s that they only have the grip of a month-old Post-It note that has fallen down a hundred times and just won’t stay stuck.

A closer look, so you can be sure to read this request/order/admonition. The usual high marks for effort will be awarded. As for effectiveness, well…you see the result.

Other things that make no sense: The shopping carts at the Prix supermarket in our neighborhood. Why do the sides stop halfway up? The designer has never gone shopping? The factory ran out of plastic?

You’re in luck if you’re the kind of person who likes a challenge, like this gentleman ahead of me. He has managed to arrange his groceries according to size, shape and volume with remarkable skill. The person ahead of him, please note, faced the challenge in a completely different way — by sidestepping it altogether. His or her shopping trolley is also crammed, but the objects don’t risk falling apart.

The requisite pink or pale blue bows on the doorway announcing births always sound a tiny imaginary trumpet fanfare in my heart. In this case, I gather there are twin girls. Oh boy.

A lovely, if melancholy, surprise at the entrance to the church of the Gesuati. An abandoned rose does not augur well, and I can only hope that a and p’s magic love has not come to a premature end.

Nature

Yes, there will be spring

February 25, 2023 11 Comments

I don’t know who needs to see this, but nobody refuses delivery of the very first forsythia blossom on the entire bush. Or in the entire world.

Seen at the Morosini Naval School. It’s probably way, way out of order. No shore leave for a month.

Nature

Mooning the tides

February 25, 2023 1 Comment

Returning to the topic of the Venetian tides, which scared everybody because it seemed as if they had lost their mind — or minds. Do they have more than one?

Anyway, let’s see what the Tide Center forecast is for today and the next few days:

As we can see, the tides are really smoothing out.

Let’s show why this is happening by consulting one of the most important meteorological influences: The moon. The greatest jumps between high and low tide occur when the moon is full or when it is new (or “dark,” as they say here).

The full moon on Feb. 6 got the ball rolling, so to speak.

There was a pause on the 14th, not to celebrate Saint Valentine but because twice a month, when the waning or waxing moon is at the half, the tides scarcely change at all for the space of about 24 hours. Venetians call this the “morto de aqua,” or death of the water. Fun fact: For that brief interval, there is often unsettled-to-bad weather. I always imagine that the moon, which spends most of the month keeping the weather on the rein, so to speak, takes a break and the weather just runs around and does whatever it likes. In fact, for the next few days a violent northeast wind is expected to blast through here.

The evidence is before us: After February 14, moving toward the new moon on the 20th, the tides went to exciting extremes. But now look at the moon from Feb. 27-28, and compare flattish tide forecast.

So arm yourself with a barometer (high atmospheric pressure = lower water), the Tide Center forecast, and the phases of the moon, and no canal will ever be able to sneak up on you ever again.

The moon has its own official fish.