Thanatopsis

Friends outside the basilica of San Pietro di Castello await the arrival of Natalino’s and Renzo’s caskets.

Today was a big one for funerals. I realize that funerals do not make summer beach reading, but they are not scheduled for anybody’s pleasure or convenience.  I certainly had no intention of writing about bereavement with the sun shining outside, but here we are.

One was at the basilica of SS. Giovanni e Paolo (for the record, NEVER referred to by Venetians as “Zanipolo”) of an important, famous, probably rich man named Cesare de Michelis (deceased August 10. Sorry you have to rely on google translate to read his biography). The world remembers his heft in the realm of culture; me, I remember that his house was right under/behind our first apartment near Santa Marta.  He had a few Brittany spaniels who were somewhat deranged by boredom, so they barked a lot.  The garden contained a glorious double-cherry tree whose resplendent blossoming completely filled one of our windows.  His daughter often would come home at or about dawn, clanging the iron gate just below our bed.  Reveille!  But this post isn’t really about him.

Presenting a striking contrast to what must have seemed a sort of state funeral were the obsequies for Natalino Gavagnin and Renzo Rossi (58 and 63 years old, respectively), bosom buddies, from just over the bridge.  Here in the depths of Castello, important rich people are somewhat thin on the ground, but they were certainly better-known than De Michelis, half the neighborhood having gone to school or work or just hung out with them since childhood.

Renzo Rossi and Natalino Gavagnin. (Published in Il Gazzettino and La Nuova Venezia, and elsewhere).

On the night of August 3, these inseparable friends got the boat ready and went out fishing, as they loved to do.  But they were hardly alone; in the summer the lagoon is far from empty.  Plenty of fatal accidents occur, often involving young people in their boats, zooming with life and horsepower, who don’t turn on their lights or in any other way demonstrate the awareness that there might be solid objects in their path.  One such object was Natalino and Renzo’s boat.

Around midnight, two young (mid-20’s) couples were returning from dinner riding in a fairly substantial motorboat with a 150-hp motor, and they ran into the two men.  In point of fact, the autopsies appear to confirm that the boat actually went over the two fishermen, judging by the fatal injuries inflicted by the fast boat’s propeller.

The driver said he didn’t see their lights, but at the last minute swerved in a failed attempt to avoid collision.  Though some have said that they were not going especially fast, the force of the swerve threw his friend 30 meters (98 feet) out of the boat.  Maybe it depends on what you mean by “going fast.”

Renzo was taken by ambulance to the hospital, where he died more or less on arrival.  Natalino, who died immediately, was borne away by the incoming tide, and was recovered around 1:25 AM near the Morosini Naval School at Sant’ Elena.  The two young couples had various minor injuries.  The legal proceedings will continue, of course, but that’s not the story.

The traditional “cushions” of flowers can cost several hundred euros.  I counted 14 of them but I think there were more that I missed.
From “Your friends at Veneziana Motoscafi.”  (Renzo was a former vaporetto pilot who had worked several years as an independent water-taxi driver.)
From “Your colleagues at the hospital.” (Natalino was a retired nurse.) These are certainly beautiful, but of course not needing to see them is even more beautiful.
Your colleagues have taken time off work, sent the flowers, greeted the widow — staying for the funeral mass itself is often too much to ask. Besides, all that makes you thirsty.
Libations being offered at the nearest bar.

The other day Lino began to retrieve a poem from his bottomless memory bank — I don’t know what made him think of it, but in his day the teachers crammed poetry into their little students’ heads, some of it quite classic and sometimes very long.  Now seems like an appropriate occasion to bring this poem back (translated by me).

“Imitation” by Giacomo Leopardi (1798-1837)

Far from your branch, poor, frail leaf,

Where are you going?

From the beech tree where I was born

The wind divided me.

Turning, from the forest to the countryside,

from the valley to the mountain, it carried me.

Perpetually desiccated,

I go as a pilgrim, and ignore everything else.

I go where everything (goes),

Where naturally

Goes the leaf of the rose,

And the leaf of the laurel.

Lungi dal proprio ramo,
Povera foglia frale,
Dove vai tu? – Dal faggio
Là dov’io nacqui, mi divise il vento.
Esso, tornando, a volo
Dal bosco alla campagna,
Dalla valle mi porta alla montagna.
Seco perpetuamente
Vo pellegrina, e tutto l’altro ignoro.
Vo dove ogni altra cosa,
Dove naturalmente
Va la foglia di rosa,
E la foglia d’alloro.

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Chasing the elusive crown

D’Este and Tezzat in the red gondolino nose to nose with the Vignottos on the brown boat. A culminating moment from one year and then 38 minutes of rowing. This is what the fans live for. But where’s that pesky crown?

Over the past 15 years or so, attention in the world of Venetian rowing races has been focused, like the sun through a lens, on two pairs of rivals: Rudi and Igor Vignotto, gondoliers and cousins from Sant’ Erasmo who have been rowing together since they were nine and ten years old, and Giampaolo D’Este and Ivo Redolfi Tezzat, both of them also gondoliers, rowing together a modest 14 years until their last outing in 2015.

No need to say that the rivalry has been intense, which is what everybody wants in sports, and it created an equally intense partisanship among fans who pursued unwinnable arguments about why their idols are the best and what the hell is wrong with the other guys.

At the regata of Murano in 2009, Igor Vignotto took the lead from D’Este and never looked back.

These four men faced off in almost every race each year, but the race that matters most is the Regata Storica, a roughly 40-minute struggle in the Grand Canal on the racing gondolas called gondolinos.

Winning the Regata Storica is a wonderful thing, but what each pair really wanted was to win it five years in a row, a feat which is almost impossible.  If you manage it you have earned the title “re del remo” (king of the oar), which sounds a little lame but which, in fact, is a very big deal.  Nobody has accomplished this since 1985.

The Vignotto cousins have won the Regata Storica a record 15 times, but never five years consecutively.  D’Este and Tezzat have won 7 times, also never consecutively.  It’s maddening for everybody, but what can you expect in a race that depends on skill, strategy, and sheer luck?  2009 was the fifth year in a row for D’Este and Tezzat — THE FIFTH YEAR — and 7 minutes into the race they capsized and nobody was even near them.  There they were, floating by their boat as everybody else rowed past them.  How embarrassing is that?

D’Este and Tezzat stayed together for a few more seasons, but being disqualified during the next year’s Storica (2010) and again in 2015 — and maybe other factors also — appeared to expunge whatever desire they still had to earn the crown.  They both retired and concentrated on work, or backgammon, or their kids.

Since then the racing world has been pretty lackluster, as the Vignottos just kept on winning, practically whiling away the time on the course by checking their messages on their phones and discussing where to go on vacation.  I know they love all those red pennants, but racking them up without breaking a visible sweat isn’t much fun after a while.  I’ve heard it said.

But this year — new drama!  A possible fourth consecutive win was on the horizon for the Vignottos when the required annual physical examination revealed that Igor’s career is over.  Something to do with his heart, and cardiac situations are not to be taken lightly, or even permitted when it comes to getting your health certificate for the racing season.

This is Igor Vignotto (2009) who clearly feels that the real beauty of winning is that the other guy lost. There won’t be any more of these moments for him.

And then Igor’s heart took a punch no apparatus could measure: His cousin Rudi called their lifelong rival, Giampaolo D’Este, to propose that they team up together.  And D’Este said yes.

Rudi Vignotto astern.  He’s just moving the boat out of the way, but this image from two years ago has suddenly become somewhat poignant. Nobody imagined ever seeing anybody in the bow position with him except Igor, to say nothing of imagining D’Este there.

I don’t presume to know their reasoning, but seeing that each of them could sink a small cruiser with the weight of the pennants they’ve won, it might not be the need for more pennants.  And seeing that the prize money is less than a working gondolier might earn in a week, it probably isn’t the money either.

It can only be the kingdom, the kingdom of the oar at long last, that could tempt them, even though 2018 will be the start of the five-year clock all over again.

Is this exciting?  Maybe.  And maybe not.  Of course they have already been dubbed the “SuperCoppia” (super duo), because that’s obvious.  But while it will be reasonably exciting to see this Voltron racing, it doesn’t necessarily promise to inspire the wild, thrilling, throat-lacerating excitement from fans and enemies alike that was the norm when these titans were rowing against each other.

Setting aside the prognostications for a few young fast-rising competitors, it’s very possible that the new duo will also win while checking their emails.  Not made up: Their first race, today at Pellestrina on pupparinos, had them so far ahead that they throttled back to a stroll just to keep the distance between them and everybody else to something kind of reasonable and not, say, two kilometers.

One commentator remarked that this new match has been made “in the name of sport,” but it doesn’t seem very sporting to me.  At least one person who was talking about it made a very interesting observation.  “Well of course they’re going to win,” he said.  “What fun is that?  Me, I think each of them should have picked some younger partner — then we could really have seen some competition.”

That’s undoubtedly true, and a very original way of thinking.  But if they’d done that, they might never get those crowns.

The blessing of the gondolinos a few days before the Regata Storica (2017).  Everybody acts friendly, more or less.

For anyone curious to see the seesawing of these champions from year to year, check this out; you can see how hard it has been to even get close to a fifth year in a row:

(V is Rudi and Igor Vignotto, D’E is D’Este with Tezzat):

2002  V first, D’E second  (this is the first year D’Este rowed with Tezzat)

2003  D’E first, V second

2004  V first, D’E second

2005  D’E first, V second

2006  D’E first V second

2007  D’E first V second

2008  D’E first V (Rudi with Leone Mao, Igor undergoing a year of suspension) third

2009  V first D’E withdrawn, capsizing

2010  V first D’E disqualified

2011  D’E first V second

2012  V first D’E second

2013  V first D’E second

2014  D’E first V second

2015  V first D’E disqualified

2016  V first no D’E

2017  V first no D’E

2018  Voltron?

 

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Locavore on the loose

Eggplant from Sant’ Erasmo — in season, looking good, and all’s right with the world.

We have been gasping under a suffocating heatwave for at least two weeks (months, years…losing track of everything), with temperatures in the 90s (F) and humidity beyond calculating.

My vital functions are down to the minimum, and evidently my brain isn’t on the “Save First” list, so my posts will also be at the minimum for a short while.

But there was a lady the other morning at the fruit and vegetable boat who gave me an unexpected little jolt.

I had just begun to tell Massimo and his cigarette what I wanted when the lady came bustling up behind me.  She already had her vegetation in a thin plastic bag, but she announced that it was threatening to give out at any moment.

Without so much as a by-your-leave (I guess when my brain disappears, the rest of me goes with it?) she extended the bag toward Massimo to demonstrate its fragility and asked him to give her another one.  She spoke in Italian but I couldn’t place the accent — it seemed to come from somewhere in the central regions.  But I could tell by her behavior that she wasn’t from around here.

“A stronger one,” she added in a way that blended a whiff of anxiety with a strong gust of busybody.  “You can see that this one isn’t going to hold out.  It really is too thin.  Just think if I were to try to take it onto the vaporetto and it broke, I don’t know what I’d do.”  She did seem a little keyed up.  “So another bag, please.  I’ll pay.”

“You know, you could also carry your own canvas shopping bag,” Massimo remarked in a noncommittal way.  (He said “canvas,” although  everybody uses ripstop nylon these days.  Anyway, she knew what he meant.)  It was very nice, the way he accommodated her without creating any further anxiety while at the same time letting her know that her fate, where her fruit was concerned, didn’t have to depend on him, or the firemen, or the police divers, or anybody but herself.

“Oh no, I don’t like those bags,” she quickly replied, implying that he’d suggested something her mother had warned her never to be seen with. My own mother was certainly implacable where it came to some things, such as my walking barefoot in the summer on the sidewalk just in front our house, because people would think I belonged to the Jukes and the Kallikaks.

Massimo handed her the never-fail sturdier green plastic bag.  “Ten cents.”  Asking for the money confirmed that she isn’t from around here; I think he was making a point.

She paid.  She left.

This is a shortish-lived fruit that could well be from Sant’ Erasmo, or environs.  The sign bears the magic word “nostrane” — “local.”

“Wow,” I said as he turned his attention back to me.  “No canvas bags.”  He gave a little shrug and an even littler smile.

“Yesterday she asked for lemons from Sant’ Erasmo,” he said.  “And bananas from Sant’ Erasmo.”  (To any reader who might not remember that these delicacies do not, are not, and could not be grown on Sant’ Erasmo — well, maybe the lemons could, I’m not sure — it would be like asking for mangosteens or manioc from Sant’ Erasmo).

“They’re really good,” I said, smiling with fake sincerity.  “A lot of people don’t know that. Did you give them to her?”

“Of course.”

What is more treacherous than a very thin and overloaded plastic bag?  A tiny bit of information that you don’t understand.  Just because she had  seen “Sant’ Erasmo” listed on various signs stuck into piles of local produce — eggplants, string beans, leeks — she interpreted this as “best” because it’s right next door, the closest loca that a vore could want.

I was sorry that she’d let herself improvise, because she was clearly so sure of herself in every way.  Food for thought.  From Sant’ Erasmo.

These plums have no visible provenance, but they’re looking very tempting. I wouldn’t insist on knowing their hometown.

 

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Selvatico postscript

When I mentioned that then-mayor Riccardo Selvatico was the guiding spirit behind the huge undertaking of building (and paying for) healthier housing in Venice, I left it at that.  It sounds important, but kind of lame.

Until you consider the conditions that many (not all, of course) Venetians were living in at the end of the nineteenth century.

So even though the clean, foursquare handiwork of these reformers may not look picturesque or romantic (whatever that may be), I hope you will look with deeper respect at these more modern tracts around the city when you consider how they changed the lives (starting by saving them) of many families.  I am sure that nobody living in one of those picturesque houses missed it at all when something dramatically better presented itself.  A few of Lino’s friends in early childhood lived in circumstances which weren’t of the best; one of his clearest memories about a friend’s house summarizes their family’s situation: “The smell of cold ashes.”

To Selvatico, this is the sort of place that cried for improvement.  Does this scene inspire a twinge of nostalgie de la boue? Selvatico wouldn’t have felt it.  He somehow thought that people shouldn’t be compelled to live in small, dark, cramped, damp, malodorous, vermin-infested dwellings.
At least the streets were paved, to one degree or another. For many centuries most of the streets were still beaten earth.
These long and admittedly undistinguished blocks of houses in Castello (Calle Corera) didn’t used to look like this. Credit for this transformation goes to the mayor and his collaborators.
The new houses always got a plaque. This one says: “This house in which healthiness and economy were desired to be joined The Comune and the Savings Bank built 1898.”
And the project continued; this house in furthest Castello (Quintavalle) was wholesomely resurrected eight years after Selvatico’s death.  The official phraseology remains the same, incised on plaques in various places around the city.  If you ever happen to see one, give a thought to Riccardo Selvatico, who made at least some things better.
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