Wrapping Carnival

Today is Martedi’ Grasso (Mardi Gras) and Carnival is wrapping up.  It wrapped up a few days ago in via Garibaldi, not with a bang, not with anything. On Giovedi’ Grasso, the stage, inflatable slide and trampolines were going full tilt, overrun by swarms of unchained children.  The day after, nothing.  Everything was just … gone.

There are still frittelle and galani on sale and the streets are still speckled with confetti, yet the revelers are nowhere to be seen.  I think whoever’s still around has migrated to the Piazza San Marco, where the big closing events take place.  I won’t be there.  I’ll be sitting at home in the dark, like some addict, secretly eating the last of the galani.

Galani, the last batch. They are doomed and so am I.
Frittelle veneziane are somewhat difficult to find; lately everybody seems to want them filled with pastry cream or zabaglione. I stick with the traditional solid balls of fried dough.  I bought this one not because I’m so crazy about frittelle, but because I couldn’t resist the chance to break off all those little stick-out bits.  I’m so easy to entertain.
“Today there are mammaluchi.”  Readers may remember that the Pasticceria Targa near the Rialto market is the only place I’ve found that offers a special Carnival sweet called “mammaluchi.”  Not the knightly military caste drawn from the ranks of slave warriors (thanks, Wikipedia), but an equally dangerous pastry.
The Mamluks had a special sword, but I think this could have be just as effective in your average skirmish. It would just take a little longer for your adversary to collapse.  The filling is dough, but of a moisture and density that make you take them seriously.  Two is actually too many, but I didn’t let that stop me.
I receive absolutely no compensation for this mention, they don’t even know who I am. Just that wild-eyed foreigner who comes in every year asking if the mammaluchi are ready yet.
I didn’t go on a hunt for costumes to photograph, mainly because so many of them are so trite. I don’t judge, I know the people concealed within are having a wonderful time. I just feel embarrassed taking pictures that everybody else is taking, especially of something so unimaginative.  Here, a group of massive costumes was disembarking from the #1 vaporetto.
I kind of liked these dudes, even if they had rented the garb. I was fascinated by the fact that all of them had 12 white dots. I have no idea how you play a game of dominos if all the tiles have the same number of dots, but at least they were being whimsical.  I award points for whimsy.
And speaking of whimsy, this was the scene in via Garibaldi on Fat Thursday. The munchkins from the local nursery school are dressed up as either little pigs (the girls) or wolves (boys). The masks were handmade of the ever-reliable construction paper.
The pigs were especially adorable, not only because they were scarfing up frittelle and fruit juice but because they had to move their masks aside to make way for the food. The mask itself is a small masterpiece, held on by a circlet of pink construction paper.
This was an exceptional minimalist costume. The mask was a small cardboard carton just sitting on his shoulders, and he must have had fun making a sword that wants to be a Mamluk bread knife.
Seen at the Rialto market: A couple wearing chef’s toques, the father carrying their little girl on his back, disguised as a ….
…lobster. That’s what I always say, never leave home without a clean handkerchief and a lobster.
Yes, I know you want to stay out past dark, but it’s time to go home. Pack it up till next year.
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Carnival we go again

The waves of confetti are the forerunners of the festivizing. You don’t need to see who tossed these handfuls to know that the game is on.
Next stage: Complaints. Sunday morning’s newsstand lists the usual problems: (L to R) “Carnival for 80,000 Today the turnstiles go into operation.   Strike at La Fenice Opening night canceled.”  “Carnival and nightlife It’s chaos Protests.”  “Turnstiles at the openings (on streets) The first time at the Piazza San Marco.”
Sunday morning: The waterfront is lined with the big tourist launches which, after they unload their revelers, wait back here along the Fondamenta Sette Martiri for the return trip to everywhere.
And on up the Riva degli Schiavoni toward San Marco.  They’re even double-parking.

Last Saturday (Feb. 23) was the semi-official opening of Carnival, which means tremendous hubbub in deepest Castello.  The frittelle and galani are already making inroads on everybody’s glucose levels, and by the look of the calli, confetti appears to be strewing itself.

The centerpiece of Saturday’s inaugural celebrations was the procession of the 12 “Marias” from San Pietro di Castello to the Piazza San Marco.  Weather cold but sunny, not much wind — perfect for everybody, especially the Marias who, if the morning bora had lasted, would each have needed a can of hair spray to keep her tresses under control.  Perfection comes at a price, and in this case it would either have been a week’s worth of washing with Packer’s Pine Tar shampoo or a visit to the Navy barber for a cut measured in millimeters.  People love looking at the girls, but I worry about their hair.  It probably comes with age.

These are the Marias from 2017; I didn’t fight my way through the mass of people to chronicle this year’s batch. The dresses change each year, but the hair is eternal. I keep meaning to ask one of them how (or if) if they manage to sleep during this week. I’m imagining those Chinese headrests.

Sunday (Feb. 24) at 11:00 AM was the true official opening of the annual scrum, with the “Volo del Angelo” (flight of the angel) enacted by a lovely girl in magnificent garb who slides down a wire from the campanile of San Marco to terra firma at the stage below.  She was followed by another, because why stop at one?  In this case I don’t worry about their hair, I worry about their lives.  As does everyone.  All went well.

The most important innovation was the installation of turnstiles at the entrance to the Piazza; for the first time, the number of festivizers permitted in the Piazza was limited to a modest 23,000, with corridors arranged for easy entry and exit.  Modern, intelligent, efficient — it can be done! I don’t know where the rest of the 110,000 people that were counted in the city went, but my tricorn hat with the veil is off to the organizers and the enforcers, all 700 of them: 420 vigili, or municipal police (100 more than last year, between Venice and the mainland), 60 firemen, 120 workers from Vela (transport), 40 of Suem and Croce Verde (ambulances) e 40 of Civil Protection (general assistance and crisis management).

La Nuova Venezia reported that there were many more people than last year.  “In spite of some suffocating stretches, some calli transformed into a Stations of the Cross (you can intuit this means slow and extreme suffering), and some campi, such as Santa Maria Formosa, full to overflowing, there weren’t any complications.”  They are referring to quantity, not quality, because…..

Turista barbaricus is back! Two young foreigners were nabbed at 10:00 AM on Sunday in the Piazzetta dei Leoncini urinating against the basilica of San Marco.  Hey!  A wall!  Just what we needed!  Nabbed by the police, each has been given a fine of 3,330 euros ($3,782).  That will certainly make for an interesting conversation when they get home.  Just think: For the price of a coffee (1.10 euros) they could have used the bar’s bathroom.  Or hey — the canals are free! I realize that Carnival was created for breaking rules, flouting convention, freeing oneself of all those rigid rules that so strangle happiness and frivolity.  I even wrote about it.  Except that even the Venetian Republic didn’t need much time to recognize that there is a limit to everything, including fun, and to start passing decrees and ordinances to keep total chaos at bay.

Because I don’t venture as far as San Marco — and not even as far as the Arsenale — my view of Carnival is limited to our little lobe of the city, and that’s fine with me.

“To confetti” — evidently it can be a verb. Just ask the dog.

The story of the “Marias”:  From the 9th century it was the custom in Venice, on the Feast of the Purification of Mary (Feb. 2, or “Candelora”), to bless all the couples who were planning to marry that year.  For the ceremony, which was held in the bishop’s palace, the 12 poorest damsels were dressed in splendid garments and jewels lent by the main churches of the city.  They didn’t have to be beautiful (as required by today’s pageant), they just had to be poverty-stricken.

In 973 (or maybe 948), the ceremony was interrupted by the arrival of a band of wild Slavic pirates from the Croatian coast, who stole the girls and, of course, their expensive garb and jewelry.  Doge Pietro Candiani III organized a posse, caught up with them at Caorle, slew the pirates and brought the girls and their stuff home safe and — one hopes — still sound.  To thank the Madonna for her intercession in this happy outcome, the Feast of the Marias was instituted.

But something had changed.  Instead of choosing merely the 12 poorest girls, now they had to be the most beautiful of the poorest.  Each girl was assigned to a wealthy family which donated clothes, jewels, and a dowry to help her marriage chances.

Wikipedia (in Italian, translated by me) tells us that “In the following days there was a series of civil and religious ceremonies that culminated in a boat procession on the Grand Canal, during which the “Marias” displayed their beauty and their jewels.  The ceremonies were accompanied by balls, banquets and other extravagances; furthermore, to see the Marias was considered a sign of good luck, beyond being a festival for the eyes of the masculine public.  And so the festivities extended over many days (even two weeks) and attracted many people from other countries.”

Sound good?  Not really.  Because now there were 12 poor — literally and figuratively — girls involved in what amounted to a struggle to the death among 12 patrician families.  “The feast of the Marias created not a few problems; it often happened that the girls who were about to be married were courted, and in the worst cases violated, by the men who went to see them.  Furthermore, the competition of the Marias caused bitter conflicts between the families, those that were poor (who, in the case of losing, protested the lost victory) as much as those who were rich (who didn’t want to take on the costs involved).

“So the flesh-and-blood girls were gradually replaced by statues of wood, called Marione or Marie de tola (wooden Marias).  These were dressed and bedecked with jewels, but unlike their human counterparts weren’t furnished with dowries, and at the end of the feast the trappings were returned to their legitimate owners.  But this new version of the festa lost a lot of its original sense, and along with it the favor of the Venetians, who reacted with anger and scorn, even going so far as to attempt to sabotage the festa.

This is the current version of the “wooden Marias.” Even the jewels are gone.

“In 1349 the Republic of Venice had to pass a law stating that anybody who threw vegetables at the procession of the wooden Marias would be sent to the galleys; this, though, only made the festa lose even more of its prestige, and only 30 years later it was definitively suppressed.”

Fun fact: “It seems that the term “marionette” is derived from the Marione.  And even today it’s common to hear Venetians call a woman who is particularly dull and inexpressive a Maria de tola.”  Even though I’ve never heard Lino use this expression, he confirms that it’s a common saying.  Maybe we just don’t know any women who answer to that description.

The procession goes up via Garibaldi (something of a comedown from the Grand Canal of yore), but the girls are wonderful to look at.

On to San Marco, alive or wooden!
Leave us behind, we’re happier in the background.  She’s part of a strolling musical troupe from Switzerland, which also included a tuba and a glockenspiel.  Nice hat.
Somebody just invented the wheel. Didn’t figure on finding bridges when he got that great flash of genius, but he persevered.
You don’t need much to get the Carnival look. This appears to be the newest variation of face painting.
Jugglers and makers of balloon animals are all the littlest Castello denizens need to feel Carnival.
There are also four trampolines, one inflated slide in the shape of the “Titanic” going down (two orange smokestacks in the background), and also a cotton-candy maker. All the best to revelers in the Piazza San Marco, but I’m perfectly happy here.
Good night, via Garibaldi. Keep the confetti warm till tomorrow.

 

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Stumbling stones

The installation of a “stone” in front of San Polo 2305 on January 28.
Giovanni Gervasoni belonged to the Waldensian Protestant denomination and was active in the Resistance (“arrested as a politician,” that is, for political reasons). That was two strikes against him.

It may seem that I have decided to dedicate my blog to war memorials (and it does begin to seem that way), but I promise I will be broadening the scope and lightening the atmosphere very soon.  But not quite yet, because the other morning I joined a large group of people who came to witness the installation of a so-called “stumbling stone” (Stolperstein, in German; pietra d’inciampo in Italian).  At the risk of appearing frivolous, let me mention that plenty of Venice’s masegni, or paving stones, are fully capable of tripping people up all by themselves.  It happens every day.  But these are different.

The “stones” on display the day before their installation. The sixth stone replaces one in remotest Cannaregio which was hacked out and taken away — stolen — by unknown hands last year.  (veneziatoday.it)

These “stones” are concrete cubes 10 cm (3.9 inches) on each side which bear a brass plate inscribed with the names of persons who were deported to the Nazi death camps; they are placed in the pavement in front of the house from which that person was taken (usually their home).

The majority of the victims were Jews, but you also risked deportation if you belonged to any of the following categories of non-ideal humans: Romani people, homosexuals, the mentally and physically disabled, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Mormons, blacks, members of the Communist or Social Democratic parties or the anti-Nazi Resistance, the Christian opposition (Catholic and Protestant), Freemasons, military deserters, International Brigades soldiers from the Spanish Civil War, escape helpers, conscientious objectors, capitulators, “habitual criminals,” looters, persons charged with treason, military disobedience or undermining the Nazi military, as well as Allied soldiers.

The first “stone” was placed on December 16, 1992, in front of the City Hall in Cologne, Germany; it is inscribed with the first lines of Heinrich Himmler’s orders for the beginning of deportations on December 16, 1942.  (photo: Willy Horsch)

German artist Gunter Demnig began this project in 1992 — he hand-makes each “stone” — and as of October 23, 2018 there were 70,000 in more than 1,200 towns and cities across Europe. The first 12 in Venice were put in place in 2014; the city now counts 78 (including the Lido and San Servolo). For anyone wishing to see any (or all) of the stones in Venice, here is a map.

But why set the memorial into the street?  One would expect to see it discreetly placed on a wall, perhaps, but the setting deliberately recalls an anti-Semitic saying in Nazi Germany when someone tripped on a paving stone: “A Jew must be buried there.”  Furthermore, as Nazis destroyed Jewish cemeteries they would break up the tombstones, using the pieces in the sidewalks where countless passing feet would desecrate them.

Six “stones” were installed on January 28. The first was near Campo Sant’Agostin, and I estimate that about 50 people were present for the ceremony. First, the speechmaking: (L to R) Paola Mar, city councilor for tourism; Ermelinda Damiano, President of the city council; an unidentified woman who might be representing the German Center for Venetian Studies; Paolo Navarro Dina of the Jewish Community (and ace reporter for the Gazzettino), and Mario Borghi of the Istituto Veneziano per la Storia della Resistenza e della Societa’ Contemporanea (IVESER).
The representative of the Waldensian community (left) gave a brief speech outlining Gervasoni’s life. Mario Borghi (right) reminded onlookers of the possibility to contribute to the project by “adopting” a stone, paying the 120 euros cost of its creation and installation.
Everyone listened very closely, when they weren’t checking their phone.

Giovanni Gervasoni was born into a modest Venetian family and studied to become an elementary school teacher.  In 1930 he converted to Protestantism, joining the Waldensian Methodist community and working tirelessly in a group which distributed anti-Fascist publications.

Arrested as “a subversive” for the first time in 1932, he began a life of fleeing, hiding, and being under constant surveillance.  “His political activity caused him to travel frequently between Venice and Padova,” recalled Alberto Bragaglia, a journalist and Waldensian, quoted in an article on nev.it.  Bragaglia’s father, who was then an adolescent, told him that he remembered “a tall, lanky man who would suddenly appear at home and stayed as a guest for several periods of time.”

In 1935 he founded, with some men from the congregation, another group dedicated to the clandestine distribution of material from Giustizia e Liberta‘, an anti-Fascist Resistance group. Just a few months later, in April, he was arrested again and sent to the island of Ventotene, one of the regime’s best-known penal colonies for political prisoners.  There he began, with fellow-prisoner Dr. Romola Quarzola, to try to secretly send anti-Fascist tracts to the mainland.  Discovered, he was sent to prison in Rome and then Civitavecchia.

In December, 1938 he was sent to the island of Ponza, a prison island near Ventotene; after an extension of his sentence, he was finally liberated in July, 1943, the conclusion of eight years of incarceration.  Undaunted, he returned to Venice and began to work as a partisan in collaboration with the Anglo-American forces.  Arrested again on January 3, 1944, he was sent to Dachau and killed on February 17, 1945.

The orange-colored countries are those where “stumbling stones” have been placed. (Cirdan, Wikimedia Commons)

I hope this summary hasn’t bored you; I’ve given it to demonstrate the central point of all the thousands of “stones” across Europe.  Gervasoni was only 36 when he died, having spent 15 years, roughly half his life, working against the Nazi-Fascist regime.  What this small brass plaque represents, brightly and bravely, isn’t his death, but his life.

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The Garden of the Forgotten Venetians: The Partisan (Part 2: The Women)

This iconic image appears on many different articles and websites; the only identification I’ve found so far is “Laura D’Oriano and others.”  I can’t tell you which is Laura, nor can I explain where, why, or what is happening here..  But it seems to stand extremely well on its own.

The statues and plaques and other assorted monuments in honor of the women partisans of Italy can tend — like statues, etc. of anything else — toward the abstract.  It’s one thing to look at a bronze or ceramic figure or street sign and try to imagine who it symbolizes.  But the 100,000 or so women in Italy who fought against the Nazis and Fascists were anything but symbolic.

A factor that wasn’t much acknowledged up until the Sixties, more or less, was that many were also fighting against the social and familial “dictatorship” of mores and customs and taboos which had changed little since the 1800’s.  The partisan women were, in many respects, proto-feminists, and filmmaker Rossella Schillaci produced a documentary about them with the terse title “Libere” (“free,” in the plural feminine gender).

I haven’t seen the film, but here is the trailer; below is the text (translated by me) of an interview with the filmmaker by Eliane Viale of vice.com.  This strips away some of the veneer of romance to show the ferocious reality of their lives.

THE LESS-KNOWN STORY OF THE WOMEN OF THE RESISTANCE

We spoke about what the Resistance signified for the women who acted as couriers, and not only.

(Interview by Eliane Viale, Vice magazine, and Rossella Schillaci, published in Vice magazine on April 25, 2017, https://www.vice.com/it).

Introduction: Remember the reluctance of the protagonist to recognize, even briefly, the importance of the role which the women — often adolescents — carried out.

The latent yearning of Johnny in the film for the military Puritanism made him shake his head at the sight (of the many girls who made up part of the brigade).  They, in effect, practiced free love, but were young women, in their exact season of love which coincided with a season of death, they loved doomed men and love, very often, was the next to last act of their destined existence.  They made themselves useful, fought, fled for their lives, knew torture and horrors and terrors, enduring them as much as the men.

The Resistance has passed into history as a thing of men, but in the ranks of the partisans there were also girls of little more or less than 20 years old, who beyond contributing in an important manner to the struggle, lived their formative lives in an environment — not only political, but also emotional — that was extremely particular.

What that period signified for Italian women, and how all the promises that developed then were later reduced to smoke, Rossella Schillaci speaks in the documentary Libere.  I contacted her to know more.

Vice: The film is a selection of archival material, audio and video, among which are interviews but above all scenes of life — images that I didn’t believe even existed.

R.S.: It was Paola Olivetti, director of the National Cinematographic Archive of the Resistance, who proposed that I realize a project that concentrated on the participation of the women.  The interviews were gathered over a period of 50 years, principally in the Archive in collaboration with other organizations of research on the Resistance in various places.  The rest is also principally from the National Archive of the Resistance, but many other archives, public and private (from the Audiovisual Archive of the Worker’s Movement and the Democratic of the Luce Institute, but there are really many) furnished us with precious material — photographs, extracts from period documents, and family films in super-8.

Clorinda Menguzzato “Veglia,” 20 years old, was captured with her ill companion whom she didn’t want to abandon.  She was beaten and tortured for three days by Germans and Fascists, then killed on October 10, 1944.
This was also Clorinda Menguzzato (adige.it).
One of numerous signs in towns and villages that commemorate the partisan women. (La Repubblica)

Vice: If the role of the women as couriers during the partisan struggle is fairly well known, your documentary has another focus: the fact that this participation was, in all ways, a movement of the liberation of women.  “Each one did it because she wanted to feel free,” said one woman in an interview.

R.S.: Yes, listening to all the interviews I noticed that this aspect emerged, that it seems to me had never been told and which removed a lot of rhetoric from the narrative of the period — it is a period that is so mythic that it’s difficult not to make it rhetorical.  Instead, these reflections, often bitter and ironic, succeed in giving a key to a new reading (of history).

The women actively entered the struggle even if it was for “contingent” motives: they had a brother, a father, the husband among the partisans — and in fact, for example, one declares to have seen her own loved ones reduced to near death; another says “There was the fight, and I wanted to be in the fight too” … But the common implication is that there was a yearning for freedom which came out because of that historic moment.

There was nothing to lose: they were homeless, they didn’t study, they worked in the factories or in the countryside in the place of men from when they were 13-14 years old.  One sensed that there was a necessary change underway, for which one needed to fight.  And in this change many said that they discovered what politics were, after 20 years of dictatorship, and which for all of history had been considered a thing of men.  Therefore they understood that they were absolutely capable of doing everything that men were doing.

Ancilla Marighetto “Ora” was also part of the Gramsci Brigade.  She was captured during a general search patrol; one of her skis broke and,  not being able to escape, sought refuge in a tree.  Discovered by dogs, Ora fired all the rounds in her pistol at the Germans.  Dragged to earth, she was arrested, raped, the dogs were set on her, then she was shot.  Neither she nor Menguzzato revealed the names of their companions. (Wikipedia)

Vice: Often their role was as couriers (staffette), but many of them in the documentary lament that later it was a term that was always used in the diminutive.

R.S.: It’s true, their role of connection was fundamental at the strategic level.  Without those who carried information, arms, food, who cared for the wounded, etc., the men in hiding couldn’t have done anything.  And often they did this by risking a lot, because if they were taken, the punishment certainly wasn’t more gentle than that for the men…

Furthermore, it’s been forgotten their role in the cities, where the Groups for the Defense of Women were created, as much to safeguard the workers as to collect aid to carry to the brigades, as to defend the prisoners and their families.  It was a finely detailed fabric and extremely well-organized, in which 100,000 women participated.  There were also the factories, where the women gave life to strikes and revolts, actual sabotage as in war; and carried forward clandestine political propaganda, in newspapers and mimeograph, and in political assemblies and oral information.

Vice: Watching the documentary it’s striking the fact that the women use, to describe their participation in the Resistance, words like “adventure,” “recklessness,” “escape” from the old-fashionedness of their parents — the aspect of war is really and truly secondary.  One woman tells that she went on her bicycle to get the explosive dropped by parachute by the English, and laughs remembering the official who told her to be careful on the way back because if she fell with five kilos of explosive “it would have made a pretty big hole.”

R.S.: Well, one thing that I’d never thought about is that then many girls, even if they were considered women, were only 15-16 years old, and for us they wouldn’t have been much more than children.  Certainly there was a lot of recklessness, partly due to their age.  But another woman told me something important: “You today can’t understand, in that period people were imprisoned for nothing, you could die, and anyway even if they didn’t kill you one died of hunger.  We had nothing to lose.”  There is this idea that it was all an extraordinary period, and the grand enthusiasm with which many women participated depended also on the fact that there were no alternatives.

Virginia Tonelli (“Luisa”), from Castelnuovo del Friuli, responsible for the Groups for the Defense of Women, was appointed to maintain contact between the Triveneto Command, the Garibaldino Command, and the directors’ group in Trieste.  Captured and tortured, she was transferred to the Risiera of S. Sabba  where after being tortured she was burned alive in the crematorium oven.

Vice: The women partisans talk about how they found themselves, for the first time, to be free, as much as the men, even in the aspect of personal relations: friendships, love stories, sex — “One made love, and lots of it,” said one.  “We were all comrades, friends,” said another.  Was it really so simple?

R.S.:  In truth those are things that weren’t asked very often, after the war, for modesty.  But those who talk say that the rapport was equal and marked by respect, by friendship.  In spite of the situation, no one told me about violence, etc.  In many interviews it comes out that often there was only one girl in the midst of all the men (and even they were only 16-18 years old, in many cases), but there was always a relative or the captain who protected them — and often there wasn’t any need.  Certainly many love stories were born, and I discovered that there were also many partisan weddings, celebrated in the brigade by the captain or a priest.

Vice: Speaking of things that weren’t asked, I was thinking that we are the last to have the possibility to speak with people who lived those years….

R.S.: And to ask the right questions.  I also interviewed some women (unfortunately there are few who are still alive), and I realized that the responses change very much according to the question that you ask.  Many things, at the end of the war, weren’t asked because of a kind of modesty.  It also counts that it was inconvenient also for the left to talk out loud that the women had had that freedom, that they had been together with men without the oversight of their parents… So it was all kept quiet, and for this reason many things weren’t even asked — a reason why the story of those years is a little smoothed over.

In this way many interviews stop at the Liberation, even if it’s very important what happened after the Liberation; there was a great disillusionment for the women, because the expectations, the hopes, the promises that had matured during the war weren’t all maintained.  There was a return to the past.

Cecilia Deganutti from Trieste was originally a nurse with the Italian Red Cross. After joining the Osoppo-Friuli Brigade she undertook missions in Udine and the area of lower Friuli.  After her capture she, like Virginia Tonelli, was  taken to the Risiera di San Sabba, killed, and burned.

Vice:  In fact, the women who had lived that independence at work and in life, at the end of the war were returned to the place they had been before.  One of them says that “Notwithstanding that we were wives of partisans, our husbands were still dominant.”  Society wasn’t ready?

R.S.: I can’t give you an answer as a historian, because I’m not one, but the women who I listened to spoke of a period that was extremely hard: very little work, few houses, little money; furthermore, the men had returned from the front and it seemed natural to everybody, women and men, that the women should leave the jobs to them.  There was also a great mistrust regarding the partisans, who were considered hotheads — in the documentary a woman recounts that it was easier for an ex-Fascist to find work than for a partisan.  Being that there were few jobs, at work as well as in the political parties the women were demoted and relegated to the home to take care of the family.

Vice: One woman in particular maintains that the feminism of the Seventies and Eighties forgot that many things had already been done during the Resistance.

R.S.: Let’s say that immediately after the war it was desirable that one should forget, nothing was done to conserve or make known what had happened.  Even some representatives of the left political parties didn’t want the women to march during the Liberation, to not show how many had participated.  In the same way, even though the women had immediately been given the right to vote, at the beginning they couldn’t be elected — then, fortunately, this law was quickly changed in time for the first elections.

Vice: As always in history, anyway, the results aren’t unequivocal, nor easy to interpret: one partisan, for example, says that the fact that the women suddenly had the vote guaranteed three decades of the Christian Democratic government.

R.S.:  Certainly, it’s interesting that it was actually the women, the ones most committed, to say they didn’t want the vote.  Because they knew how much the Christian Democrats had done in the years after the war to change votes; people even feared excommunication if they voted for the Communist Party.  (Lino remembers that there were signs on the church doors threatening excommunication to anyone voting for the Communists. He stresses too that many partisans came from parish groups, religious institutes, the Boy Scouts, and that “the minimum part” were Communists.)

French actor Fernandel as Don Camillo, by Stefan Kahlhammer (Wikipedia).

(Note: Anyone who has enjoyed the books about Don Camillo by Giovannino Guareschi, and the films starring Fernandel as the pugnacious priest, may not realize that the seemingly humorous conflicts between Don Camillo and Peppone, the Communist mayor, bring to life the real struggle after the war between the Communist Party and the Catholic church.  Wikipedia summarizes this tension: “As depicted in the stories, the Communists are the only political party with a mass grassroots organization in the town. The Christian Democratic Party, the main force in Italian politics at the time, does not have a local political organization (at least, none is ever mentioned); rather, it is the Catholic Church which unofficially but very obviously plays that role. Don Camillo thus plays an explicitly political as well as religious role. For example, when the Communists organize a local campaign to sign the Stockholm Peace Appeal, it is Don Camillo who organizes a counter-campaign, and townspeople take for granted that such a political campaign is part of his work as priest.”)

R.S.: It would be good if (the women) had talked about it more, but the problem remains the same, the great lack of real information about those years.

(The Resistance) corresponds to the first moment of awakening of the feminist movement in Italy.  As Giuliana Gadola Beltrami says, feminism was born in the Resistance and this film in some way recounts a parallel Resistance.

But the post-war period did not maintain its promises.  The women in the film who are asked “Why did you do it?’ answer “Because I wanted to be free, because I didn’t like the life I was living.”  But after the Liberation they found an Italy in which there wasn’t room for female emancipation.  Many of them continued to work in politics but they found themselves living a forced return to the home.  Their reflections, sometimes bitter, recall a forgotten piece of our history.  (End of interview).

There were many women who participated in various ways and levels in the struggle for Liberation as combatants or couriers.  Very many helped the partisans, they hid them, nursed and fed them, maintained contacts, and worked to save Jews and fugitives.

Following is a partial list of women partisans from the “Triveneto” who were awarded the Gold Medal for Military Valor.  Their noms de guerre are in parentheses. It is  taken from the “Notizie dell’Istituto” (Istituto Veneziano per la Storia della Resistenza e della Societa’ Contemporanea), April 2003.  To mention some of these women is not to imply their superiority to the men, nor to diminish the courage of other women, but merely to put faces of real people onto some of the monuments, especially the one that goes underwater every few tides in Venice.

Rita Rosani (real name Rosenzweig) was a Jew from Trieste.  She fought at Verona, where she created, along with Colonel Ricca, a group on the mountain Comun de Negrar.  In September, 1944, she and her group were surrounded by 500 Germans and Fascists.  Urged to hide and flee because she was a woman, Rita continued to fight, and was killed. E. Meneghetti dedicated the  poem “La Rita more” in the Veronese dialect to her. (blog Partigiana ANPI)

Now for some less appalling news.

Paola Del Din, who joined the Osoppo Brigade in 1943.  Do not let the smile fool you, she’s already way past you.  (Federazione Italiana Associazioni Partigiane)
Paola Del Din (center), before a jump. Her book is entitled “The Right to Speak, Paola Del Din, a life on the front lines from the Resistance to the Cold War.”

Paola Del Din (“Renata”), was the daughter of an officer of the Alpini (mountain combat infantry regiment); she had just graduated from the University of Padova with a degree in literature when she joined her brother in the Resistance.

After training as a parachutist with the English Parachute Regiment, she undertook many dangerous missions, as courier and informer, and was decorated for having completed 11 flights in war.  She was the first Italian military female parachutist, and probably the only Italian woman to make a jump during combat.  On April 9, 1945 she broke her ankle on landing but continued, limping, to deliver documents to the Allied advancing forces, crossing and re-crossing enemy lines.

After the Liberation, she won a scholarship to the University of Pennsylvania where she earned her M.A. degree in literature, and after her return to Italy became a middle-school teacher.  In 1957 she received the maximum Italian military honor with the following motivation: “Beautiful example of a partisan, she knew in every circumstance how to carry out with rare capacity and manly courage (virile ardimento) the assignments entrusted to her, demonstrating always a lofty spirit of sacrifice and a limitless dedication to the cause of liberty.”

She is still going strong at age 96; this undated photo is obviously from at least a few years ago. She is wearing the Gold Medal for Military Valor. (Agoravox)
Tina Anselmi shown as a bicycle courier. I can’t say what purpose such an extremely staged portrait would have served, but at least we see how she looked then, bare legs and all. (Biografie di donne protagoniste del loro tempo).

Tina Anselmi (“Gabriella”), born in Castelfranco Veneto, was part of a group of high school students in Bassano del Grappa who were forced to witness the hanging of 31 partisans as reprisal by the Nazis on September 26, 1944.  Not long after, at age 17, she joined the Resistance as part of the Cesare Battisti Brigade.  (Note: She was not decorated with the Gold Medal for Military Valor, but she earned a boatload of other honors.)

After the war she earned a degree in literature and became an elementary-school teacher, but was active in the Christian trade movements and rose through the political ranks to become, in 1976, the first woman minister in the Italian government — Minister for Labor and Social Services, then Minister for Health.

She is best known for having been the main proposer of Italian laws on equal opportunity, something she fought for throughout her political life.  In 1977 she passed a bill which recognized fathers as primary caregivers for their children.  In the same year, Anselmi was a key supporter of a successful major piece of legislation on gender parity in employment.  She chaired the National Equal Opportunities Commission until 1994, and played a significant role in the introduction of Italy’s National Health Service.  Her lifetime of political work led to her being proposed, several times, as candidate for President of the Republic.

“She was an honest person,” one man told me. “She was clean.” (Antimafia Duemila)
In June, 2016, a stamp was issued — the first ever to be dedicated to a living person — in honor of Tina Anselmi on the 40th anniversary of her appointment as the first woman government minister.  The text is the oath of office.  Tina Anselmi died at age 89 on Nov. 1, 2016.

Taking all this into consideration, one is left to ponder whether a bronze statue of a faceless corpse represents the deepest significance of the partisan women.  In my view, their incandescent spirits were too strong to be reduced to this crumpled figure.  Dead, yes.  Victims?  Never.

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