The Garden of the Forgotten Venetians: The Partisan (Part 2: The Women)

This iconic image appears on many different articles and websites; the only identification I’ve found so far is “Laura D’Oriano and others.”  I can’t tell you which is Laura, nor can I explain where, why, or what is happening here..  But it seems to stand extremely well on its own.

The statues and plaques and other assorted monuments in honor of the women partisans of Italy can tend — like statues, etc. of anything else — toward the abstract.  It’s one thing to look at a bronze or ceramic figure or street sign and try to imagine who it symbolizes.  But the 100,000 or so women in Italy who fought against the Nazis and Fascists were anything but symbolic.

A factor that wasn’t much acknowledged up until the Sixties, more or less, was that many were also fighting against the social and familial “dictatorship” of mores and customs and taboos which had changed little since the 1800’s.  The partisan women were, in many respects, proto-feminists, and filmmaker Rossella Schillaci produced a documentary about them with the terse title “Libere” (“free,” in the plural feminine gender).

I haven’t seen the film, but here is the trailer; below is the text (translated by me) of an interview with the filmmaker by Eliane Viale of vice.com.  This strips away some of the veneer of romance to show the ferocious reality of their lives.

THE LESS-KNOWN STORY OF THE WOMEN OF THE RESISTANCE

We spoke about what the Resistance signified for the women who acted as couriers, and not only.

(Interview by Eliane Viale, Vice magazine, and Rossella Schillaci, published in Vice magazine on April 25, 2017, https://www.vice.com/it).

Introduction: Remember the reluctance of the protagonist to recognize, even briefly, the importance of the role which the women — often adolescents — carried out.

The latent yearning of Johnny in the film for the military Puritanism made him shake his head at the sight (of the many girls who made up part of the brigade).  They, in effect, practiced free love, but were young women, in their exact season of love which coincided with a season of death, they loved doomed men and love, very often, was the next to last act of their destined existence.  They made themselves useful, fought, fled for their lives, knew torture and horrors and terrors, enduring them as much as the men.

The Resistance has passed into history as a thing of men, but in the ranks of the partisans there were also girls of little more or less than 20 years old, who beyond contributing in an important manner to the struggle, lived their formative lives in an environment — not only political, but also emotional — that was extremely particular.

What that period signified for Italian women, and how all the promises that developed then were later reduced to smoke, Rossella Schillaci speaks in the documentary Libere.  I contacted her to know more.

Vice: The film is a selection of archival material, audio and video, among which are interviews but above all scenes of life — images that I didn’t believe even existed.

R.S.: It was Paola Olivetti, director of the National Cinematographic Archive of the Resistance, who proposed that I realize a project that concentrated on the participation of the women.  The interviews were gathered over a period of 50 years, principally in the Archive in collaboration with other organizations of research on the Resistance in various places.  The rest is also principally from the National Archive of the Resistance, but many other archives, public and private (from the Audiovisual Archive of the Worker’s Movement and the Democratic of the Luce Institute, but there are really many) furnished us with precious material — photographs, extracts from period documents, and family films in super-8.

Clorinda Menguzzato “Veglia,” 20 years old, was captured with her ill companion whom she didn’t want to abandon.  She was beaten and tortured for three days by Germans and Fascists, then killed on October 10, 1944.
This was also Clorinda Menguzzato (adige.it).
One of numerous signs in towns and villages that commemorate the partisan women. (La Repubblica)

Vice: If the role of the women as couriers during the partisan struggle is fairly well known, your documentary has another focus: the fact that this participation was, in all ways, a movement of the liberation of women.  “Each one did it because she wanted to feel free,” said one woman in an interview.

R.S.: Yes, listening to all the interviews I noticed that this aspect emerged, that it seems to me had never been told and which removed a lot of rhetoric from the narrative of the period — it is a period that is so mythic that it’s difficult not to make it rhetorical.  Instead, these reflections, often bitter and ironic, succeed in giving a key to a new reading (of history).

The women actively entered the struggle even if it was for “contingent” motives: they had a brother, a father, the husband among the partisans — and in fact, for example, one declares to have seen her own loved ones reduced to near death; another says “There was the fight, and I wanted to be in the fight too” … But the common implication is that there was a yearning for freedom which came out because of that historic moment.

There was nothing to lose: they were homeless, they didn’t study, they worked in the factories or in the countryside in the place of men from when they were 13-14 years old.  One sensed that there was a necessary change underway, for which one needed to fight.  And in this change many said that they discovered what politics were, after 20 years of dictatorship, and which for all of history had been considered a thing of men.  Therefore they understood that they were absolutely capable of doing everything that men were doing.

Ancilla Marighetto “Ora” was also part of the Gramsci Brigade.  She was captured during a general search patrol; one of her skis broke and,  not being able to escape, sought refuge in a tree.  Discovered by dogs, Ora fired all the rounds in her pistol at the Germans.  Dragged to earth, she was arrested, raped, the dogs were set on her, then she was shot.  Neither she nor Menguzzato revealed the names of their companions. (Wikipedia)

Vice: Often their role was as couriers (staffette), but many of them in the documentary lament that later it was a term that was always used in the diminutive.

R.S.: It’s true, their role of connection was fundamental at the strategic level.  Without those who carried information, arms, food, who cared for the wounded, etc., the men in hiding couldn’t have done anything.  And often they did this by risking a lot, because if they were taken, the punishment certainly wasn’t more gentle than that for the men…

Furthermore, it’s been forgotten their role in the cities, where the Groups for the Defense of Women were created, as much to safeguard the workers as to collect aid to carry to the brigades, as to defend the prisoners and their families.  It was a finely detailed fabric and extremely well-organized, in which 100,000 women participated.  There were also the factories, where the women gave life to strikes and revolts, actual sabotage as in war; and carried forward clandestine political propaganda, in newspapers and mimeograph, and in political assemblies and oral information.

Vice: Watching the documentary it’s striking the fact that the women use, to describe their participation in the Resistance, words like “adventure,” “recklessness,” “escape” from the old-fashionedness of their parents — the aspect of war is really and truly secondary.  One woman tells that she went on her bicycle to get the explosive dropped by parachute by the English, and laughs remembering the official who told her to be careful on the way back because if she fell with five kilos of explosive “it would have made a pretty big hole.”

R.S.: Well, one thing that I’d never thought about is that then many girls, even if they were considered women, were only 15-16 years old, and for us they wouldn’t have been much more than children.  Certainly there was a lot of recklessness, partly due to their age.  But another woman told me something important: “You today can’t understand, in that period people were imprisoned for nothing, you could die, and anyway even if they didn’t kill you one died of hunger.  We had nothing to lose.”  There is this idea that it was all an extraordinary period, and the grand enthusiasm with which many women participated depended also on the fact that there were no alternatives.

Virginia Tonelli (“Luisa”), from Castelnuovo del Friuli, responsible for the Groups for the Defense of Women, was appointed to maintain contact between the Triveneto Command, the Garibaldino Command, and the directors’ group in Trieste.  Captured and tortured, she was transferred to the Risiera of S. Sabba  where after being tortured she was burned alive in the crematorium oven.

Vice: The women partisans talk about how they found themselves, for the first time, to be free, as much as the men, even in the aspect of personal relations: friendships, love stories, sex — “One made love, and lots of it,” said one.  “We were all comrades, friends,” said another.  Was it really so simple?

R.S.:  In truth those are things that weren’t asked very often, after the war, for modesty.  But those who talk say that the rapport was equal and marked by respect, by friendship.  In spite of the situation, no one told me about violence, etc.  In many interviews it comes out that often there was only one girl in the midst of all the men (and even they were only 16-18 years old, in many cases), but there was always a relative or the captain who protected them — and often there wasn’t any need.  Certainly many love stories were born, and I discovered that there were also many partisan weddings, celebrated in the brigade by the captain or a priest.

Vice: Speaking of things that weren’t asked, I was thinking that we are the last to have the possibility to speak with people who lived those years….

R.S.: And to ask the right questions.  I also interviewed some women (unfortunately there are few who are still alive), and I realized that the responses change very much according to the question that you ask.  Many things, at the end of the war, weren’t asked because of a kind of modesty.  It also counts that it was inconvenient also for the left to talk out loud that the women had had that freedom, that they had been together with men without the oversight of their parents… So it was all kept quiet, and for this reason many things weren’t even asked — a reason why the story of those years is a little smoothed over.

In this way many interviews stop at the Liberation, even if it’s very important what happened after the Liberation; there was a great disillusionment for the women, because the expectations, the hopes, the promises that had matured during the war weren’t all maintained.  There was a return to the past.

Cecilia Deganutti from Trieste was originally a nurse with the Italian Red Cross. After joining the Osoppo-Friuli Brigade she undertook missions in Udine and the area of lower Friuli.  After her capture she, like Virginia Tonelli, was  taken to the Risiera di San Sabba, killed, and burned.

Vice:  In fact, the women who had lived that independence at work and in life, at the end of the war were returned to the place they had been before.  One of them says that “Notwithstanding that we were wives of partisans, our husbands were still dominant.”  Society wasn’t ready?

R.S.: I can’t give you an answer as a historian, because I’m not one, but the women who I listened to spoke of a period that was extremely hard: very little work, few houses, little money; furthermore, the men had returned from the front and it seemed natural to everybody, women and men, that the women should leave the jobs to them.  There was also a great mistrust regarding the partisans, who were considered hotheads — in the documentary a woman recounts that it was easier for an ex-Fascist to find work than for a partisan.  Being that there were few jobs, at work as well as in the political parties the women were demoted and relegated to the home to take care of the family.

Vice: One woman in particular maintains that the feminism of the Seventies and Eighties forgot that many things had already been done during the Resistance.

R.S.: Let’s say that immediately after the war it was desirable that one should forget, nothing was done to conserve or make known what had happened.  Even some representatives of the left political parties didn’t want the women to march during the Liberation, to not show how many had participated.  In the same way, even though the women had immediately been given the right to vote, at the beginning they couldn’t be elected — then, fortunately, this law was quickly changed in time for the first elections.

Vice: As always in history, anyway, the results aren’t unequivocal, nor easy to interpret: one partisan, for example, says that the fact that the women suddenly had the vote guaranteed three decades of the Christian Democratic government.

R.S.:  Certainly, it’s interesting that it was actually the women, the ones most committed, to say they didn’t want the vote.  Because they knew how much the Christian Democrats had done in the years after the war to change votes; people even feared excommunication if they voted for the Communist Party.  (Lino remembers that there were signs on the church doors threatening excommunication to anyone voting for the Communists. He stresses too that many partisans came from parish groups, religious institutes, the Boy Scouts, and that “the minimum part” were Communists.)

French actor Fernandel as Don Camillo, by Stefan Kahlhammer (Wikipedia).

(Note: Anyone who has enjoyed the books about Don Camillo by Giovannino Guareschi, and the films starring Fernandel as the pugnacious priest, may not realize that the seemingly humorous conflicts between Don Camillo and Peppone, the Communist mayor, bring to life the real struggle after the war between the Communist Party and the Catholic church.  Wikipedia summarizes this tension: “As depicted in the stories, the Communists are the only political party with a mass grassroots organization in the town. The Christian Democratic Party, the main force in Italian politics at the time, does not have a local political organization (at least, none is ever mentioned); rather, it is the Catholic Church which unofficially but very obviously plays that role. Don Camillo thus plays an explicitly political as well as religious role. For example, when the Communists organize a local campaign to sign the Stockholm Peace Appeal, it is Don Camillo who organizes a counter-campaign, and townspeople take for granted that such a political campaign is part of his work as priest.”)

R.S.: It would be good if (the women) had talked about it more, but the problem remains the same, the great lack of real information about those years.

(The Resistance) corresponds to the first moment of awakening of the feminist movement in Italy.  As Giuliana Gadola Beltrami says, feminism was born in the Resistance and this film in some way recounts a parallel Resistance.

But the post-war period did not maintain its promises.  The women in the film who are asked “Why did you do it?’ answer “Because I wanted to be free, because I didn’t like the life I was living.”  But after the Liberation they found an Italy in which there wasn’t room for female emancipation.  Many of them continued to work in politics but they found themselves living a forced return to the home.  Their reflections, sometimes bitter, recall a forgotten piece of our history.  (End of interview).

There were many women who participated in various ways and levels in the struggle for Liberation as combatants or couriers.  Very many helped the partisans, they hid them, nursed and fed them, maintained contacts, and worked to save Jews and fugitives.

Following is a partial list of women partisans from the “Triveneto” who were awarded the Gold Medal for Military Valor.  Their noms de guerre are in parentheses. It is  taken from the “Notizie dell’Istituto” (Istituto Veneziano per la Storia della Resistenza e della Societa’ Contemporanea), April 2003.  To mention some of these women is not to imply their superiority to the men, nor to diminish the courage of other women, but merely to put faces of real people onto some of the monuments, especially the one that goes underwater every few tides in Venice.

Rita Rosani (real name Rosenzweig) was a Jew from Trieste.  She fought at Verona, where she created, along with Colonel Ricca, a group on the mountain Comun de Negrar.  In September, 1944, she and her group were surrounded by 500 Germans and Fascists.  Urged to hide and flee because she was a woman, Rita continued to fight, and was killed. E. Meneghetti dedicated the  poem “La Rita more” in the Veronese dialect to her. (blog Partigiana ANPI)

Now for some less appalling news.

Paola Del Din, who joined the Osoppo Brigade in 1943.  Do not let the smile fool you, she’s already way past you.  (Federazione Italiana Associazioni Partigiane)
Paola Del Din (center), before a jump. Her book is entitled “The Right to Speak, Paola Del Din, a life on the front lines from the Resistance to the Cold War.”

Paola Del Din (“Renata”), was the daughter of an officer of the Alpini (mountain combat infantry regiment); she had just graduated from the University of Padova with a degree in literature when she joined her brother in the Resistance.

After training as a parachutist with the English Parachute Regiment, she undertook many dangerous missions, as courier and informer, and was decorated for having completed 11 flights in war.  She was the first Italian military female parachutist, and probably the only Italian woman to make a jump during combat.  On April 9, 1945 she broke her ankle on landing but continued, limping, to deliver documents to the Allied advancing forces, crossing and re-crossing enemy lines.

After the Liberation, she won a scholarship to the University of Pennsylvania where she earned her M.A. degree in literature, and after her return to Italy became a middle-school teacher.  In 1957 she received the maximum Italian military honor with the following motivation: “Beautiful example of a partisan, she knew in every circumstance how to carry out with rare capacity and manly courage (virile ardimento) the assignments entrusted to her, demonstrating always a lofty spirit of sacrifice and a limitless dedication to the cause of liberty.”

She is still going strong at age 96; this undated photo is obviously from at least a few years ago. She is wearing the Gold Medal for Military Valor. (Agoravox)
Tina Anselmi shown as a bicycle courier. I can’t say what purpose such an extremely staged portrait would have served, but at least we see how she looked then, bare legs and all. (Biografie di donne protagoniste del loro tempo).

Tina Anselmi (“Gabriella”), born in Castelfranco Veneto, was part of a group of high school students in Bassano del Grappa who were forced to witness the hanging of 31 partisans as reprisal by the Nazis on September 26, 1944.  Not long after, at age 17, she joined the Resistance as part of the Cesare Battisti Brigade.  (Note: She was not decorated with the Gold Medal for Military Valor, but she earned a boatload of other honors.)

After the war she earned a degree in literature and became an elementary-school teacher, but was active in the Christian trade movements and rose through the political ranks to become, in 1976, the first woman minister in the Italian government — Minister for Labor and Social Services, then Minister for Health.

She is best known for having been the main proposer of Italian laws on equal opportunity, something she fought for throughout her political life.  In 1977 she passed a bill which recognized fathers as primary caregivers for their children.  In the same year, Anselmi was a key supporter of a successful major piece of legislation on gender parity in employment.  She chaired the National Equal Opportunities Commission until 1994, and played a significant role in the introduction of Italy’s National Health Service.  Her lifetime of political work led to her being proposed, several times, as candidate for President of the Republic.

“She was an honest person,” one man told me. “She was clean.” (Antimafia Duemila)
In June, 2016, a stamp was issued — the first ever to be dedicated to a living person — in honor of Tina Anselmi on the 40th anniversary of her appointment as the first woman government minister.  The text is the oath of office.  Tina Anselmi died at age 89 on Nov. 1, 2016.

Taking all this into consideration, one is left to ponder whether a bronze statue of a faceless corpse represents the deepest significance of the partisan women.  In my view, their incandescent spirits were too strong to be reduced to this crumpled figure.  Dead, yes.  Victims?  Never.

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The Garden of the Forgotten Venetians: The Partisan (Part 1: The Statues)

The first time I saw this, I concluded that it must be symbolic, and that the symbolism was beyond me, and furthermore I couldn’t interpret the image in mosaic below it.  The inscription “Il Veneto alle sue partigiane” translates as “The Veneto to its (female) partisans,” so I knew it was, or had been, important.

(For some reason this post registers as having been published several days ago, but it has yet to appear in the world at large.  Clearly it was intended to precede the post about the women themselves, but here we are.  I am attempting to publish this now.)

Anyone who has walked through the Giardini has almost certainly seen this ruin.  As much as any fragmented Greek temple or scattered Etruscan fort, this chunk of cement represents a number of stories: Political, social, artistic, all of which are, lest we forget, human.

The story of the now-invisible monument is made of people and events stretching from World War 2 till the 1960s; it concludes in 1969 with the addendum of the contorted, algae-covered bronze woman perpetually drowning in the water just beyond.  The algae-covered woman is fairly easy to interpret, whether you happen to like her or not, but the mute chunk of cement just stands there like some prehistoric stele.

This post will be about the monuments, and the following post will be about who they represent, much of which has faded by now into the middle and far distance in the general memory (spoiler alert: They represent the Italian women who fought in the Resistance during World War 2).

The back of the pedestal is inscribed “Nel X anno dalla Liberazione.”  On the tenth anniversary of the Liberation.

Venice was occupied by the German army from September 8, 1943 till April 28, 1945; there were 17 Nazi command posts in the city.  And, as in the rest of Italy, resistance movements flourished. There are plaques on a good many Venetian streets to the memory of male partisans who were caught and executed, victims of the “German lead” (bullets).  But the dramatic and crucial participation of the women of the Veneto region is officially recognized only in the Giardini.

A typical plaque honoring a male partisan is found on the wall by the bridge connecting Campo Manin and the Calle de la Mandola.
“That night of November 18 1944 Luigi Giacopino falling under the German lead hastened the hour of the liberation of Italy from the tyrants from within and without.  By subscription the people the Comune.”  The dates and names change but the wording is always the same and notes the double mission of the partisans to fight, not only against the occupying German forces, but also the Fascist dictatorship.

Let me say at the outset that I do not represent myself as an expert on Italian social and political evolution of any epoch; it is fiendishly complex, and what we don’t know will always be more than what we do.  Added to this is the inevitable (I guess it’s inevitable) gloss of romance that is so easy to spread across the dauntless souls, men and women, who undertook terrifying risks and, when things went wrong, faced hideous torture and death.

The women who aided the Resistance in myriad ways worked — obviously — as secretly as possible, so it was a great thing when it was decided to commemorate their toil, resourcefulness, determination, and overall courage and grit.  The result was a statue in painted majolica by sculptor Leoncillo Leonardi.  This work was installed atop a cement pedestal designed by Carlo Scarpa, the renowned Venetian architect.

The statue in 1960, photographed by Giovanni Melagrani  Its vivid colors (not shown here)  didn’t do much to make it easier to comprehend. (blog Partigiani ANPI).

This statue had a fairly short life and, not unlike some of the women it celebrated, it met a violent end.  On the night of July 27, 1961, a neo-fascist group set off a bomb that blew it to bits. The pedestal survived, though I don’t know if that was merely by chance.

The story begins in 1954, when the Institute for the History of the Resistance of the Three Venices (or Triveneto, the regions of Venezia Euganea, Venezia Giulia and Venezia Tridentina) decided to dedicate a memorial to all the women of the three regions who had participated in the Resistance, some of whom had also posthumously been awarded the Gold Medal for Military Valor for their actions and, too often, ultimate sacrifice.

The plan was to unveil the monument in 1955 to mark the tenth anniversary of the end of World War 2.  This was to be the first monument in Italy, and in Europe, commemorating the women partisans.  (There have since been a few others.)  To appreciate this decision, one should know that after the war the women were typically described as having “contributed” to the partisan struggle, and not as active participants sharing the risks and hardships as much as the men.  (See the following post.)

Leoncillo Leonardi was chosen for the commission, a sculptor and former partisan known for having already created monuments to other civilian victims of the Resistance.  He chose to work in ceramic, his favorite medium, and the vividly-colored result did not meet with universal enthusiasm even though the neo-Cubist style was a nice poke in the eye to the Fascist government which had forbidden it.

The original statue, shown here, is displayed at Ca’ Pesaro, the Museum of Modern Art in Venice.  It is identical to the statue that was destroyed but with one small difference: the kerchief at her neck is red.  Before the statue’s inauguration, some of the partisans’ associations strongly objected to this color, interpreting it as special recognition of the Resistance fighters of the Italian Communist party, so Leoncillo produced a copy which bore a brown kerchief.  This accounts for the delay which finally saw the monument inaugurated in September, 1957, two years after the tenth anniversary of the Liberation.
The statue is fairly chaotic from any angle, but the important point is that it represented the partisan woman as strong, determined, and armed, no less.  In fact, the committee intentionally commissioned a strong work to celebrate the “heroic participation” of the women partisans.  As one commentator remarked, she avoids two of the major cliches, being neither a mother nor a victim. Showing her as a warrior –a typically masculine pose — was unusually audacious.
Not at all ingratiating, but that was certainly part of the message.  The statue exalted, among other things, the feeling of triumph felt at the defeat of the dictatorship. Although the city commissioned a completely different statue from another artist after the explosion, it did buy the rejected red-kerchiefed statue which till then had just been sitting in the artist’s studio.
Now that we know what the statue looked like, we can more or less make it out in the mosaic. I have not discovered who made it.

After the 1.5 kilos of explosives (one source says dynamite, another says TNT) pulverized the statue, the enraged Venetians staged protests against what was universally seen as neo-Fascist aggression. What pieces remained were gathered up and dumped in a pile with other trash and detritus behind the city’s “Serra,” or greenhouse, which was itself neglected over time till it reached a state of impressive deterioration.  The fate of the fragments was forgotten for some 50 years, but when the Serra underwent a major restoration a few years ago, the garbage collectors carting the debris away discovered the bits of the statue.  The largest and most important piece was the chest and head of the woman (the majolica layer of the face had been obliterated by the blast), an arm with a hand, and a number of other pieces, though the lower part of the statue is essentially gone forever.

The concrete pedestal had been recovered (I lack details here) in 2003 and set upright again by Roberto Benvenuti, the supervising architect.  My sources say that the pieces were given to a restorer to be reassembled in some way, but there the trail goes cold.

To return to 1961: In the aftermath of the attack, a new committee was formed to commission another statue. Why didn’t they just install the original red-kerchiefed woman?  There seem to be two reasons.  One, apparently nobody ever liked it.  Down deep, people felt it was just too different — not so much for the militant character of the woman as for its exceptional modernity (read: Cubist colored clay is just too weird).  It must have been a blow to Leoncillo, not only to see his statue exploded, but not to be asked to make a new one (he died in 1968, seven years after the event).

The second reason for a new work, however, appears to have been a radical change in viewpoint toward the women partisans themselves.  Even as plaques and street-names in their honor were being put up around the Veneto, many of these women were no longer seen in their triumphant aspect.  Reflecting this revision, the new statue (in more-traditional bronze instead of ceramic) would represent, not the resolute combatant, but the martyred victim.  This new statue was as full of feeling as the first, but it was a different feeling, focused on sacrifice and suffering.

” La Partigiana” by Augusto Murer, 1969. Something of a dramatic difference from the already dramatic monument by Leoncillo.  It certainly shows the woman’s agony, but there’s not even a hint of her courage.  Perhaps we’re supposed to imagine it, as the lagoon washes over the figure, sometimes nearly submerging it.  As an aside, the multi-layer pedestal was also designed by Carlo Scarpa and was supposed to rise and fall with the tide.  Everybody realizes that something went wrong and nothing is being done to correct it.  If I were a world-famous architect I’d be plenty mad — that’s two of my pedestals gone kaflooey.  I’m sure that neither he nor Murer anticipated she’d end up like this, though that’s beside the more important point of the figure itself. (Flickr, Jacqueline Poggi).
One notices also that the earlier statue was dedicated to the partisans of “the Veneto,” while this version names only Venice and “the partisan.” Perhaps it is intended as a blanket recognition by Venice of all the women partisans everywhere ever.

There were undoubtedly as many political as aesthetic reasons for this change, and I cannot plumb those depths here.  I merely note, as one journalist put it, that by 1969 the city “preferred to convey a different image of the woman in war.  What’s striking is the willingness to substitute for a strong image, alive, of a woman who reacts and resists, a more traditional one, of a woman defeated by war and not even easily identifiable as a partisan.”  In the ten years separating the two statues, the image of the dynamic woman who fought had regressed, in a way, to that of the tragic woman who was courageous but who just “helped” the men.

The following post is dedicated to the women themselves.

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The Befana cometh and goeth

The once-terrifying snaggly old crones are becoming cuter by the year. It’s almost like a competition by now, and if it keeps up like this the Befana is going to end up looking like a golden retriever puppy.

January 6 is the Feast of the Epiphany, which puts an end to the Christmas holidays (which seem to have begun in late August) by the sugar-laden nocturnal passage of the Befana.  At some point in history, someone — probably two years old — mangled the word “Epiphany” and it became Befana (beh-FAH-nah) and so she has remained.

I entertain myself in two ways during this interlude.

The first is by conducting a completely unofficial census of the Befane that I see in bars, cafe’s, even supermarkets.  There are so many of them you’d think that January 7 was officially going to be Take-a-Hag-to-Work day.

Would you accept candy from these women? Of course you would.
This Befana hasn’t fully evolved from her original terrifying stage. But she’s on the right track.
This is what the Ur-Befana is supposed to look like. That’s what makes her generosity with candy so wonderful — she looks like somebody who’d rather leave you some barbed wire. If the Befana is softened to the point of resembling your favorite stuffed toy, the essential frisson is lost.
And speaking of candy, the tradition is that if you’ve been a bad little person, she will leave coal in your stocking. Some blithe spirit, excited by having been able to make candy that looks like coal (carbone) has lost the plot because this year we now also have fake polenta and cheese. What child has ever been threatened with polenta or cheese for having been bad? If you must be creative, at least make the fake candy look like something unnerving — fried fruit bat, maybe, or jellied moose nose.

The second way in which I entertain myself in this period is by admiring the underpinnings of the lagoon, as revealed during the exceptional low tides which always occur about now.  This is the completely predictable and normal phenomenon of late December-early January, and the exposed mudbanks are the seche de la marantega berola (the mudbanks of the little old Epiphany hag).  The newspaper sometimes runs a big photo with an overwrought caption that leads the uninitiated to think that the world has come to an end.  Venice without water in the canals?  Man the lifeboats!  Oh wait — there isn’t enough water to float them.  While it’s easy to imagine the inconvenience caused by acqua alta, not many people (I suppose) pause to imagine the inconvenience inflicted by not enough water.

Or let’s say there’s enough water, technically speaking.  But the distance between our moored boat and the edge of the fondamenta is so great that we either have to plan ahead and bring a ladder (made up, I’ve never seen this), or just schedule our activities in a different sequence.  There have been plenty of times we’d have gone out rowing, but the prospect of having to disembark when the water is 21 inches below the normal mean level just spoils the whole idea.

As you see.  Actually, plenty of people drive a big nail into the wall as a primitive but effective step up.  We keep meaning to do it, but so far sloth has overcome good intentions.

But never fear.  The tide will return to its normal levels, and the Befana will be back next year.  I promise.

Even with your eyes closed you can easily tell that the tide was extremely low yesterday afternoon — all you have to do it walk up or down the gangway at the vaporetto dock. It may not look like it, but this was definitely a 45-degree angle, and if you were pushing someone in a wheelchair you’d definitely have to call for reinforcements.
Up until two days ago I’d never seen mud in the Bacino Orseolo. Just pull your gondola up on the beach and have a barbecue.
People sometimes ask me how deep the water is in the canals. I always inquire, “When the tide is in, or when it’s out?” You can see the range of options here on this exposed wall (the exposed bottom is also impressive, in its way.  I’d certainly never seen it till two days ago). The lower, uniformly brown stretch of wall is almost always underwater. The upper layer is covered with green algae which flourishes with intermittent dunkings and dryings as the tide rises and falls.
Yes, there is this moment at the turn of the year which makes one almost long for acqua alta. Do not quote me.

 

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Happy Holidays, Christmas, etc.

Because I am, as usual, spinning in circles at the last minute with everything still to do, I am making the most of my blog to wish all my readers and subscribers the happiest holidays and the best New Year ever!

On December 23 we witnessed the Regata dei Babbi Natale (the race of the Fathers Christmas). Twenty-two mascaretas rowed “a la valesana” (two oars per rower) thrashed it out across the bacino of San Marco, where there was surprisingly little traffic. The real battle was concentrated in the middle of the scrum, as you see. I have no idea who won.
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