Musical New Year

La Fenice opera house.

I don’t often watch New Year’s Day concerts on television (or computer), but lots of people veer toward the version from Vienna, perhaps drawn by the irresistible, fatal lure of the “Radetzky March.”

This year, though, we were keen to see the concert from La Fenice, live via streaming, and apart from the music itself, I was entertained by observing all the measures the orchestra and chorus had taken to maintain distancing and otherwise limit contact in the decidedly closed area of the theatre.  I checked them off, mentally, as from some viral bingo card.  Masks, of course, though the inevitably maskless wind and brass players were separated by plexiglas panels.  The chorus wore masks, which didn’t seem to affect the quality of the singing but must have been somewhat challenging where breathing was concerned.  (Not to mention the drippage that masks inevitably call forth.)  The next day it was sharply noted by many that the musicians of the Vienna concert had not worn masks.

Making space for everybody meant that the entire orchestra section of the theater was stripped of its pink velvet armchairs and covered with a platform.  (Some of the armchairs were moved to the stage for the benefit of the singers.)  I’d like some expert to explain how this repositioning might have affected the overall acoustics.  I didn’t notice any particular problem.

Lack of an audience threatened depressing intervals of silence between the numbers, but it turned out that the performers applauded each other — the chorus clapped for the orchestra or soloists; the orchestra stamped their feet and the string players also tapped their music stands with their bows.  The conductor clapped for everybody.  It was perfect.

The armchairs are very comfortable and very luxe.  It’s an ambitious space to cover, though.  This image was taken before a performance two summers ago.

Naturally the program was entirely composed of old warhorses, and we love them all.  This is one moment in the year when rash experiments in music are neither needed nor wanted.

The reason I’m mentioning all this is because someone had the charming idea to complement the “Barcarolle” from The Tales of Hoffman with a ride through the canals aboard a gondola.  Even if you don’t care about music, old or equine, I wanted you to experience this sensation, partly because it has become sadly rare these days, and partly because these few waterborne moments give the most expressive glimpse of the city as she is at the moment that I’ve ever seen.  I suppose it was filmed early on a Sunday, because although the taxis and gondolas have almost disappeared, the barges on workdays are still going full tilt.  But the sense of emptiness, in canals and along many streets, has become all too common.

Among my many hopes for the New Year is one in particular: To see the city full of gondolas again, slipping through the maze of Venetian waterways.  With or without Hoffman.

(Apologies for the quality of these clips; I couldn’t find any better.  But they show the organization of the concert, and the music itself is wonderful, as always.)

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Christmas refrain

This small Nativity scene is just inside the entrance of the church of San Francesco de Paola on via Garibaldi. There’s a bigger scene up near the high altar but I’m sticking  with this one: It’s made almost entirely of recyclable materials, primarily bottle caps. It was created, according to the sign below, at the “Sant’ Alvise” day-care center in the neighborhood for persons with various disabilities. Whatever those disabilities may be, the group created a small masterpiece.

Technically, we are still well within the Twelve Days of Christmas, so Christmas images are more than appropriate — except that everyone has now fixed their beady eyes on the arrival of the New Year, so Santas and creches don’t seem quite so…necessary?

Fine, I will go with the marching calendar, but not without sharing a few more glimpses of Christmas hereabouts.  To call it “low-key” would imply that there even was a key, but however modest the celebrations may have been, we treasured them even more.

Mary’s face is a bit mystifying — how did they make those eyes? Perhaps I will pursue this matter, perhaps not. Just add it to all the other mysteries of the year.
Are those angels made of fluorescent light bulbs?  Outstanding!
The tobacco-toy-lottery ticket shop constructed Christmas in the window entirely from Lego bits. Not for me to say, but anyone who had time to do this must be escaping from something.
Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa is the site of a silent battle between green-and-red windows. I have awarded the prize to the one on the left.
I’m just sorry you can’t admire how enchanting the twinkling little lights made the whole arrangement.  These are just crying out to be turned into wedding bouquets.  With the lights.
In the splendid entryway to the hospital (I’m fine) is this phenomenal Nativity scene constructed on a mascareta from the nearby Querini rowing club.
Matting made of rushes from the lagoon marshes. Reliable sources (via Giuseppe Tassini) maintain that the sestiere of Cannaregio took its name from canne (rushes) that once lined its canal banks. The calle de le Canne near San Giobbe is named for a long-ago storeroom of rushes; these had various uses, primarily to apply pitch to waterproof the hulls of wooden ships.
Some resourceful person(s) managed to obtain a not-worm-eaten bricola. Many of these pilings out in the lagoon are in desperate shape, but this is worthy of its exalted role here.
From the day after Christmas until Epiphany hundreds of panettoni will remain in the supermarkets, placed front and center at ever diminishing prices.  The management obviously hopes it won’t be forced to throw them away at season’s end. Or leave them in a warehouse till next Christmas?
Undaunted sunset reaches via Garibaldi from however many miles away. I hope your 2021 will be just as bright.

 

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Best of holidays to all

I’m down to the holiday wire, sending this out on Christmas Eve, but as I race to finish the dusting (which I had about five months to accomplish) and Lino is wrangling the canoce (Squilla mantis) into pasta sauce and antipasto nibbles, I thought I would send a few Christmasy images from here.

Heartfelt best wishes to everyone for the end of 2020 and all of 2021.

Christmas fish-traps at the Rialto market. A festive sight for everybody, except the fish.
There are so few gondolas to be seen in the canals — phalanxes of them have remained at their moorings for weeks on end — that this brave little red bow stood out like the brightest beacon of the holiday spirit.
The good news was that it was probably the last day of school before the Christmas vacation. The bad news, obviously, was that it was so much earlier in the morning than he would have liked. Having his father nearby to haul his backpack clearly wasn’t enough.
This was edgy — the bright sparks at Nevodi Pizzalab decided to create gifts-of-the-Magi pizza. They sound pretty good, but I’m uneasy that there may be something in the fine print of the catechism that would label this blasphemy. I just don’t know….. (Peperoni here are not spicy sausages, but bell peppers.)
And speaking of the fish market, on Saturday there are also flowers there.  It’s a little uncanny how she designed her shopping to complement her cart.  Or vice versa.
Sunrise always lifts my spirits, and I hope it does the same for yours.  I have not done anything to the color here — this is how it was.

 

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O Christmas Screen, O Christmas Screen…

Seen from afar, it’s the Little Christmas Tree that Could.  The bright glow in the glum is admittedly rather pleasant.

You might wonder how a Christmas tree could possibly make people mad (though considering the year almost past, you might not).  Whatever your Yuletide habits, a lot of Venetians would have welcomed a honking big Norway spruce to its traditional place in the Piazzetta, some looming aromatic conifer loaded with scintillating lights, sumptuous ribbons, glittering glass baubles, etc.  It would have been greeted with open arms, many smartphones, and shining faces.

But because we haven’t had enough computer screens in our lives this year, now we have the Christmas Screen.

It’s art, naturally, art that, from afar, sort of resembles a tree, though this structure isn’t even alive.  But it does have the consolation of being, as I mentioned, art, groaning beneath loads of symbolism and verbiage.

Installed in the usual position last Thursday, this structure is the creation of artist Fabrizio Plessi, sponsored by the Assicurazioni Generali.  No way of my knowing who had the final, or even the first, word in the discussions that led to this creation.  It can’t be to attract tourists, because at this point in the evolution of the pandemic it would be easier to attract a Great Auk than a tourist.

It’s tree-ness, on closer examination, is looking a bit eccentric. Also, it’s moving.  Literally.

The public has not been amused by a novelty that appears to be more like a refugee from the Biennale than a festive fixture.

The artist explains: “It’s a message of hope.”

The public responds: “A heap of scrap metal.”  “Hanging ingots.”

Anything wrong with this picture? In addition to everything else that’s wrong about this tree, Lino notes that it’s between the two infamous columns of “Marco” and “Todaro,” historically the place for public executions. I realize it’s not precisely between the columns, but to him that’s where it is.  Not good.

“This year we need a message of light,” Sig. Plessi told La Nuova Venezia. “The 80 modules represent the flow of that many different cultures.”  Furthermore, it would seem that the installation symbolically unites earth, water and sky.

“I understand whoever would have preferred a traditional tree,” Plessi continues, “but this is a message of hope.  The use of digital in this context becomes spiritual emotion and expresses itself in the only possible language today, permitting us to reach others even if they are physically distant.”

Not sure about you, but while this is the sort of hot air that keeps the Biennale aloft for months on end, it doesn’t do anything for the spirit of Christmas.  My own view is that the more you explain something, the less that something actually communicates.  If you have to tell people what to think or feel about your creation, you’ve acknowledged that the creation is mute.

If there’s one city that isn’t suffering for lack of works of art, it would be Venice.  But there’s always room for one more.

There is more.  “This tree is well planted in tradition, but it is also a tree that wants to talk to the world,” says Simone Venturini, the city councilor for Tourism.  “Personally I find it marvelous because it shows that Venice knows how to be, together, the city of great history and of the future.  It shows that you can make contemporary art without waiting for the Biennale.”  Of course you can, as long as you have a sponsor.  I don’t want to put a pricetag on Christmas, but this installation, along with 50 kilometers of strings of lights in the Piazza San Marco and on the mainland, not to mention the lights shining on the Rialto bridge, cost a total of some 800,000 euros.  So he could also have said that you don’t need to wait for the Biennale in order to spend money.  I knew that.

Many years ago a homeless man at the entrance to the subway in New York stopped me with this request: “Hey lady, could you spare some change for an old wino?” How could I say no?  His candor was irresistible.

If Mr. Plessi had said, “I like to make art using digital stuff.  I don’t know why, I just like it.  Maybe because it’s shiny.  So here’s sort of a tree made of digital stuff.  Kind of made me think of Christmas.  Hope yours is happy, in spite of everything,” I’d have started a Fabrizio Plessi fan club.

And yet, at some magical moment in the last four days, some indomitable  soul(s) did what they could to put things right.  “Thanks, we brought our own….”
Despite the condensation on the plastic, the cardboard sign is clear.  The “opera d’arte” (work of art), is straight ahead.  Christmas, on the other hand, is down and to the left.
This is what some people (not tourists, I’m thinking) consider Christmas.! I’m just sorry there aren’t any fish to stick in the branches, like the baby owl in New York and the baby koala in Australia..  In any case, Christmas has been saved.  This time.

 

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