Inside each vaporetto, a million stories

The Accademia Bridge, looking toward the Accademia.Galleries.  It may not look so high from this angle, but it was high enough. (Photo: Honeydew)

As I have said (many times), riding the vaporetto, while frequently annoying, or crowded or cold or suffocatingly hot or drenching — being crushed into a mass of people riding outside in the rain is so invigorating — it is also prime territory to see people we know.

I like this.  I’m so used to it, either seeing someone I know, or at least someone I can identify, that I wasn’t even aware of it until one day when I got home from a large circuit doing errands more or less around the city.  As I walked over our bridge, it suddenly struck me.  “Weird!”  I thought.  “I didn’t see even one person that I know.”  That it occurred, and that I noticed it, were both clear signs that I had passed through another airlock into the depths of Venice.

Usually, though, we run into, or past, people Lino knows.  Which means “has known.” Forever.

Last night we were trundling home on the faithful #1 vaporetto.  Now that Carnival’s over, the ratio of locals to tourists has increased again, briefly, in favor of the former.  So it didn’t start out as surprising when Lino recognized someone.

Then the saga began to unfold.

It went like this:

A matronly, moderately zaftig woman was the last to come inside.  As she sailed majestically along the aisle, she left the doors behind her wide open.  It’s fairly cold these days, so it always astonishes me that someone doesn’t connect the concepts of “warmth” and “closed doors.”

So even though we were several rows back, I got up to close them, and sat down again next to Lino making the little huffy sound that escapes me when I fulfill this task for someone too (fill in appropriate word here) to close them.

“And she’s a Venetian,” he remarked.  This sometimes happens, which makes it even harder for me to understand.  But that’s not the point here.

“You know her?” I offered the usual rhetorical question.

“Sure,” he said.  “She lived in my old neighborhood” (near campo San Vio).  “Her brother was a really close friend of Ricky.”

And Ricky was…..?

“He’s the one who killed the finanzier (member of the Guardia di Finanza) by dropping a stone from the Accademia Bridge.”

I stared at him.

“He was a very sketchy character,” Lino went on.  “He was all involved in drugs and smuggling and I don’t know what.  So he really had it in for the Finanza.

“So one night he called the headquarters of the Finanza on the Giudecca, all worked up, saying ‘Somebody’s set fire to a boat in the canal!  You’ve got to come quick!'”

So two agents on duty leaped into one of their fast launches and zoomed across the Giudecca Canal and up the Grand Canal.

“Meanwhile, Ricky had taken a loose piece of marble” (one of the rectangular slabs of Istrian stone which delineate each step on a stone bridge here).  “He carried it up to the top of the Accademia Bridge and waited for them to pass.  At just the moment they started under the bridge, he let the stone fall.  It killed one of the agents right there.”

Naturally he was found, tried, and put away.  “Sixteen years in the criminal insane asylum,” Lino said.

And then……

“I saw him around the neighborhood after he’d gotten out.  He was walking along with a beer bottle in his hand.  He started to cross the Accademia Bridge, and as he went up, he put his hand out over the rail and casually let the bottle drop.

“Sixteen years, and they hadn’t cured him of anything.

“Still, he had had an extenuating circumstance.  Because once a long time before, he had jumped out his first-floor apartment window into the canal and saved somebody who was drowning.

“If he hadn’t have done that, they’d have given him life.”

You probably never noticed these rectangles of gray-white stone (unless you slipped on one in the snow or ice), in which case you’d never have thought about their potential as the murder weapon. This is good.

 

 

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Light and shadow

There is no earthly reason to show these photos, except that they are glimpses of what I’ve been seeing lately on the old via Garibaldi. Winter is a very, very good time for slicing bits of beauty out of the city.  Don’t worry, they grow right back.

I have lots more (and many show the eastward view, too — it’s not always sunset in ErlaWorld). But no time to start looking for them at the moment. 

Shadows are probably one of the most un-mysterious things around, but I still think they’re full of magic.
Sunset at this time of the year aims the sun’s rays with a precision and intensity that are highly gratifying. As a bonus, this is the angle at which the church of the Salute looks as if it’s sitting right at the end of the street; a few steps further, and it suddenly falls back into its correct distant position. I can amuse myself indefinitely with this optical illusion.
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The road to Kilimanjaro

These Maasai women are almost certainly not thinking about Kilimanjaro, or what it would feel like on the summit at 18,000 feet. I’d hazard that their daily routine is enough of a challenge, as it is for most women (sorry — I meant “people”). (No, I meant “women.”) (Photo: Jerzy Strzelecki)

Starts at my house, among other places.  I’m going to climb the mountain with a group of women for charity, departing next Sunday.  I’ll be gone two weeks and hope to have some interesting — though non-Venice-related, obviously — things to relate when I return.

But that’s not why I started this post.  I want to share what has inspired this adventure and my participation.  Yes, this is an appeal, and no, I have no way of checking to see what you do.  But I’ve put my heart and gizzard into preparing for this effort, and have already started working on editing the book.  So I hope you’ll join in, even at a distance, where you certainly are warmer, more comfortable, and not enjoying any symptoms of altitude sickness, about which I have already read far more than is probably good for me.

Here goes: 

You have an extraordinary opportunity to contribute and help a brave woman from the Maasai tribe called Theresia.
She has decided to trek with US to the peak of Kilimanjaro. This is part of the “Dreamers&Doers” book project, the publication of which is supported also by Ladies Trekking Club www.ladiestrekking.com and it aims at pointing out the need for education in general.
All those pre-ordering the “Dreamers&Doers” book contribute personally to the project and also to Theresia. Your name and support will go along with the Maasai woman and will help her to reach the Roof of Africa. Your name and contribution will also be mentioned on the websites of the Impatiens Kilimanjari Foundation. You only need to pre-order your copy of the book here: http://www.ladiestrekking.com/book/pre-order/
The most significant story in the book is the story of Theresia, a Maasai woman. We do not know the story and its result yet but we can support it together. As we know, all over the world the girls belonging to native tribes have major difficulties with obtaining education. Theresia has worked all her life just to provide school education to her daughter –the education she was not able to obtain herself. She will go on a trip to Kilimanjaro with other women of different nationalities. She wants to tell the world that all of us have the right for education.
How her journey goes, how far she goes and how big of a challenge it would be for her – all that can be read in the book. For the first time in her life she will put on clothes that we are used to wearing on our trekking trips. For the first time in her life she will wear boots. She believes that her story will tell to many of us how difficult it is for girls to obtain education. She hopes that it will change and the situation will improve. If we do not speak up and stand for our values then who else will?
The names of all those pre-ordering the book will reach this brave Maasai woman. This would be your message and support to Theresia! We gather the names of all our supporters and Theresia will take them along to her journey. We show that we have faith in her and we believe that she will reach the Roof of Africa.
In addition, the book will include stories of women of more than twenty nationalities. All those women are connected by their travel to the Roof of Africa. These stories are not about trekking but about those things inspiring us in life.
The stories are written by Tess Burrows – UK; Brigitte Muir – Australia; Helga Hengge – Germany; Randi Skaug – Norway; Mandy Ramsten- South Africa; Karla S. Whelock – Mexico; Samantha Larson- USA and many-many others.
School textbooks for pupils and a book for you! Let us contribute together!
In the northern part of Tanzania there are two schools – Gombero and Elerai basic schools. These schools have no water or electricity. The schools teach more than 1200 pupils and each teacher takes care of 3-5 classes at one time. Each class has around 40 students. For some subjects, the school has just a couple of textbooks for the entire class. Almost half of the students live more than 10 km away from the school and there is no public transport. Helping hands have difficulties with reaching this place.
We have decided to offer some quick help. At minimum they would require 4500 textbooks, that would cost EUR 45,000.
All the pre-ordered “Dreamers and Doers” books are linked to the project for providing textbooks for these two schools. We would like to help them as quickly as possible.
The price is 50 euros $67), including postage and handling.
Photos in the book: Karen Kasmauski (USA) Nadia Marquard Otzen (Denmark/UK)
Editor: Erla Frank Zwingle (USA /Italy)
Hardcover books are only available for pre-order. The dimensions of the book are 21 x19 cm and it contains ca 200-250 pages. It is an excellent photo and gift book full of inspiring stories about us. The book is in English language.
The more books are pre-ordered, the quicker will our help reach the children. 
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Carnival for everybody else

Monday night looked sort of like this, except that the water was much higher and there was more snow, which was lifted up in large undulating slabs like polar icepack. But this is just our little corner of the universe. Multiply all this by quadrillions and you can imagine the Piazza San Marco. Still, the real problems weren’t where there was water, but where there was snow. And ice. And so forth.

You know the old saying: “Expect nothing and you won’t be disappointed.”  (Is that an old saying, or did I just make it up?)

Following that bit of wisdom gave me a Carnival which was modest to the point of self-abnegation.  With lots of fritole.  The only unpleasantness was the acqua alta, but it did not reach the predicted epic proportions. (In fact, let the record show that one positive aspect of the imminent threat of water in the house is that, when all the stuff was piled on our two pieces of furniture, I cleaned and washed and dusted objects and places which hadn’t seen the hand of man since we moved in.) We had no plans or projects or desires or dreams or anything which could have been frustrated or ruined. And we didn’t lose power.

Reading the rundown in yesterday’s Gazzettino, though, I get a picture of a Carnival which for lots of other people — most of whom had needs far surpassing ours, primarily to travel in some way or to some degree in the culminating days –should have been called, not “Live in Color,” but “Going to Hell in Color.”

If you wanted to come to Venice on Monday night, with or without an expensive costume — or more to the point, if you really wanted to leave Venice on Monday night — you’d have found yourself involved in a sort of Ironman Triathlon: Riding the Train/Bus, Crossing the Square, and Finding Your Way Home in the Dark.

I could write a long post full of details, and I’ll keep the paper for a few days in case anybody asks me for more information.

But the headlines howling from a few pages of the paper tell enough. The thing to keep in mind is that island Venice covers some three square miles; mainland Venice covers some 21 square miles (Mestre is 8 square miles, Marghera is 13 square miles). It’s not Mexico City.  It’s not even Hampton, Connecticut.

Translation: How hard could it be to clear away some snow and keep the buses and trains running?

Answer: Hard.  Very hard.  Harder than building the Eupalinian aqueduct. Especially since it appears that nobody believed this storm was really going to hit.

There is a rundown in the paper of how many squads were working, and how many snowplows and salt trucks.  Unfortunately, they must have been phantoms; hardly anyone seems to have seen either them or evidence of their passage. In fairness, I note that there were people out working to deal with it all. Not enough, but some.

The second thing to keep in mind is that this large and violent storm, with snow and high water thrown in at no extra cost, was forecast for at least three days.  And it had already hit the west coast of Italy, and much of the south.  In other words, it wasn’t some bizarre anomaly which struck without warning.

In the order in which they appear, starting on page one of the local section (translated by me):

Under the snow, the inefficiency of the Veneto.  The prefect calls in the chiefs of public transport.  Consumers resort to the Procura (that is, the court. The prefect is the local representative of the President of the Republic, and pretty much outranks everybody.)

The precipitation caught just about everybody unprepared, from the Comune of Venice to the trains and at the airport. There were photos of people deplaning and struggling across the slippery slush covering the tarmac to get to the terminal. The baggage handling system went haywire. And so on.

There were blackouts all over the place, including the train stations in Venice and in Mestre. Not only tourists, but lots of commuters were either stranded or left to wait indefinitely for trains that were late, late, and late.

SNOW PLAN, everything has to be redone. If you read the whole article, you’ll ask yourself what they think “plan” might mean, when you consider how it worked out. The plan is ten years old, for what that’s worth.  And why, you ask, does the municipality keep a plan that has to be dusted every year because it’s never used until it’s useless?

Acqua alta, a night of terror.  The wind saves Venice and Chioggia. As previously noted by me, but without the “terror” part, at least in our little hovel.

Bad weather freezes the arrivals; Fat Tuesday for 60,000. This would only concern people with something to sell, because it’s less than half of the numbers which were expected.  Having fewer people around was the only good news I can see for emergency crews or any other group which had to contend with the breakdown of the plan.  I mean “plan.”

Transport chaos: the prefect isn’t having it. Ca’ Corner (headquarters of the prefect) retorts to the accusations of the transport people and wants to shed light on the reasons for the inconveniences (meaning no excuses).

“Crushed in the few buses which left Piazzale Roma.”  Needs no explanation except why there were so few buses, something the prefect also will be wanting to know. But remember that the buses to the mainland are operated by the ACTV, which has shown such impressive skill in managing transport by vaporetto.

Burano: Blackout on an island which finished under water — volunteers at work the entire night. High water doesn’t affect only Venice, when you stop to think about it.  The people on the islands have to get out the mops too.  In this case, they had to do it in the dark.  Fun.

Between water and blocks of ice; the fear finishes at midnight.  Bridges and streets slippery, people walking with tall boots alarmed (the people, not the boots) by the prediction of 160 cm.  Merchants on alert.  Nobody could help that there were blocks of ice floating around, which actually were more like heavy slushy shards; the street outside our door looked like the polar sea in spring, and so did the Piazza San Marco. Unlike the last acqua alta, there were no bare-chested tourists frolicking blithely in the gelid waist-deep water.

On the Giudecca, fondamente in the dark because the electricity was out.

Chemical toilets (port-a-potties) adrift in campo San Polo. Wow….

A storm of protests; the snow plan has to change.  The Comune demonstrates the efforts made to deal with Monday’s weather emergency, but even City Hall admits that in the future it will be necessary to do much more. Brains on fire! Smoke coming out of their ears!

No buses at the hospital (in Mestre); the employees forced to sleep in the hospital. 

And so on, and on, and on.

There are 220,000 Scouts in Italy; surely somebody in the Comune must have been a Scout at some time.  But “Be Prepared” seems to have been replaced by “Let’s just hope for the best.” 

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