Hints of spring

They’re only hints, mind you, but they brighten my outlook considerably.

You might not notice them if you weren’t looking for them, but I was. Violets are one of the earliest, rashest signs of spring. They ask no questions about long-term commitment from the first rays of warmth, they just bloom.
Leaves on the trees at Sant’ Elena are equally irrepressible, thank heaven.
At this fleeting stage they seem more like flowers than leaves, though of course I know that’s totally wrong, botanically speaking. But they aren’t going to be outdone by any mere blossoms.
Peach blossoms. They’re not from around here, but they are just as dependable a sign of primavera as some of the fish in the nearby market.
Ditto the pussy willows (Salix cinerea). The silvery sheath on each bud is at least as beautiful as sterling.  When they bloom, these flowers — which don’t even look like flowers — are rock-star providers of nectar.  And to think I always treated them as a curiosity that was just fun to play with.
An old German card shows the pussy-willow tradition at Easter and/or Palm Sunday in northern and eastern Europe, as well as Ukraine, Russia, and among the Ruthenian and Kashubian Catholics (I just threw that in.)  Here in the sunny Mediterranean the pussy willows are long gone by Easter, but it’s a lovely thought.
This year the ever-faithful and -predictable forsythia has just been replaced in my pantheon by this bewitching shrub at the entrance to the Morosini Naval School. Its perfume captured me before I had even noticed its flowers.
If any reader can identify this marvel, I’d be grateful. Otherwise I’m just going to have to invent a name for it myself, and it will probably be a long one, like a champion dog. (The pink buds are just on their way to opening into cream-colored flowers, a magical moment which will undoubtedly occur tonight when nobody’s looking.)
I imagine it happening not long after sunset, which shades into night much too quickly. Tomorrow will almost certainly reveal some new wonder.

 

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Space problem? What space problem?

We complain — justifiably — about tourists who take up too much space on the vaporettos with their steamer trunks and expedition backpacks, though I have to say that Venetians with children in strollers the size of tanks is becoming an even more annoying, and even dangerous, problem.

But the other day I encountered a new twist on the “I’m here, deal with it” mentality as evidenced by an exhausted Venetian mother.  (Perhaps “exhausted mother” is redundant.)  In any case, she was evidently in “standby” mode, mentally speaking.  But she was sufficiently alert to have offered me her seat as I passed by, which surprised me.

She wasn’t sufficiently alert, though, to register that she wasn’t at home in her living room, where clearly chaos reigns.  I sympathize with that, considering that her little boy, sitting on her lap, appeared to be about two years old.  The fountainhead and source of chaos, in other words.

But I am helpless to further interpret her spatial awareness.  So I will say no more.

The little boy helpfully clutched it.  People walked around it.  I failed geometry in high school but even I understood the nature of 90 degrees.  I’m not sure what planet we’re living on.

 

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Funeral footnote

That picture I showed of the people outside the church for the funeral of Renzo Rossi and Natalino Gavagnin yesterday?  I unwittingly took it too late.  The florist’s tags on the flowers said the funeral was at 11:30, so I went home for a few minutes.  When I returned, the ceremony had already started and I thought everyone standing around was waiting for it to begin. I definitely did not grasp the scope of the event.

Turns out there were SIX HUNDRED MOURNERS inside the church.  There evidently wasn’t even enough space for air, which is why these folks are outside.  Breathing.

Today the sun rose on a sunny, breezy, pleasant morning.  Somebody in the canal just outside had tied up his motorboat while loading things for a happy day out with the family.

The man’s friend was passing on the fondamenta.  “Hey!” the man called out.  “Did you make your will?”

 

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Thanatopsis

Friends outside the basilica of San Pietro di Castello await the arrival of Natalino’s and Renzo’s caskets.

Today was a big one for funerals. I realize that funerals do not make summer beach reading, but they are not scheduled for anybody’s pleasure or convenience.  I certainly had no intention of writing about bereavement with the sun shining outside, but here we are.

One was at the basilica of SS. Giovanni e Paolo (for the record, NEVER referred to by Venetians as “Zanipolo”) of an important, famous, probably rich man named Cesare de Michelis (deceased August 10. Sorry you have to rely on google translate to read his biography). The world remembers his heft in the realm of culture; me, I remember that his house was right under/behind our first apartment near Santa Marta.  He had a few Brittany spaniels who were somewhat deranged by boredom, so they barked a lot.  The garden contained a glorious double-cherry tree whose resplendent blossoming completely filled one of our windows.  His daughter often would come home at or about dawn, clanging the iron gate just below our bed.  Reveille!  But this post isn’t really about him.

Presenting a striking contrast to what must have seemed a sort of state funeral were the obsequies for Natalino Gavagnin and Renzo Rossi (58 and 63 years old, respectively), bosom buddies, from just over the bridge.  Here in the depths of Castello, important rich people are somewhat thin on the ground, but they were certainly better-known than De Michelis, half the neighborhood having gone to school or work or just hung out with them since childhood.

Renzo Rossi and Natalino Gavagnin. (Published in Il Gazzettino and La Nuova Venezia, and elsewhere).

On the night of August 3, these inseparable friends got the boat ready and went out fishing, as they loved to do.  But they were hardly alone; in the summer the lagoon is far from empty.  Plenty of fatal accidents occur, often involving young people in their boats, zooming with life and horsepower, who don’t turn on their lights or in any other way demonstrate the awareness that there might be solid objects in their path.  One such object was Natalino and Renzo’s boat.

Around midnight, two young (mid-20’s) couples were returning from dinner riding in a fairly substantial motorboat with a 150-hp motor, and they ran into the two men.  In point of fact, the autopsies appear to confirm that the boat actually went over the two fishermen, judging by the fatal injuries inflicted by the fast boat’s propeller.

The driver said he didn’t see their lights, but at the last minute swerved in a failed attempt to avoid collision.  Though some have said that they were not going especially fast, the force of the swerve threw his friend 30 meters (98 feet) out of the boat.  Maybe it depends on what you mean by “going fast.”

Renzo was taken by ambulance to the hospital, where he died more or less on arrival.  Natalino, who died immediately, was borne away by the incoming tide, and was recovered around 1:25 AM near the Morosini Naval School at Sant’ Elena.  The two young couples had various minor injuries.  The legal proceedings will continue, of course, but that’s not the story.

The traditional “cushions” of flowers can cost several hundred euros.  I counted 14 of them but I think there were more that I missed.
From “Your friends at Veneziana Motoscafi.”  (Renzo was a former vaporetto pilot who had worked several years as an independent water-taxi driver.)
From “Your colleagues at the hospital.” (Natalino was a retired nurse.) These are certainly beautiful, but of course not needing to see them is even more beautiful.
Your colleagues have taken time off work, sent the flowers, greeted the widow — staying for the funeral mass itself is often too much to ask. Besides, all that makes you thirsty.
Libations being offered at the nearest bar.

The other day Lino began to retrieve a poem from his bottomless memory bank — I don’t know what made him think of it, but in his day the teachers crammed poetry into their little students’ heads, some of it quite classic and sometimes very long.  Now seems like an appropriate occasion to bring this poem back (translated by me).

“Imitation” by Giacomo Leopardi (1798-1837)

Far from your branch, poor, frail leaf,

Where are you going?

From the beech tree where I was born

The wind divided me.

Turning, from the forest to the countryside,

from the valley to the mountain, it carried me.

Perpetually desiccated,

I go as a pilgrim, and ignore everything else.

I go where everything (goes),

Where naturally

Goes the leaf of the rose,

And the leaf of the laurel.

Lungi dal proprio ramo,
Povera foglia frale,
Dove vai tu? – Dal faggio
Là dov’io nacqui, mi divise il vento.
Esso, tornando, a volo
Dal bosco alla campagna,
Dalla valle mi porta alla montagna.
Seco perpetuamente
Vo pellegrina, e tutto l’altro ignoro.
Vo dove ogni altra cosa,
Dove naturalmente
Va la foglia di rosa,
E la foglia d’alloro.

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