Matrimonial musing

A couple this happy doesn’t need a romantic backdrop. Our friend Andrea Patalano,an officer of the Capitaneria di Porto, wed his ladylove on May 10, 2008.

The following has nothing to do with Venice, but a friend has urged (commanded) me to write this, so here goes.

Last month I was in Washington D.C. for two weddings, both involving people extremely dear to me and, as it happens, at two distant points on the matrimonial timeline.

Similarities: Both ceremonies were conducted according to the Episcopal ritual. Both were deeply moving. Both couples are unfathomably in love.

Differences:  One was in a historic private house, the other in a small neighborhood church. One was attended by mostly friends; the other by mostly relatives.  One was evening, one was morning.

What made the deepest impression on me was not simply the solemnity of the vows, which always affects me, but hearing the same promises spoken across the chasm of time and experience which separates the two happy couples.

Event One was the wedding of my only niece, Re’ Leps, now Teague; both she and her husband, Erik Teague, are on or near 30 years old, joyfully undertaking the first (one hopes the only) marriage of their lives. I regret the lack of a suitable photo here; one will be added as soon as I can get one. But I can introduce them via their websites:  Re’ has two (http://www.customclothingandcostumes.com/ and http://www.etsy.com/shop/OneStickVoodoo) and Erik has two which I am unable to make behave as links, but here goes: erikteaguedesign.com and www.etsy.com/opergeist haberdashery.

Event Two, a week later, was the wedding of my widowed ex-sister-in-law who had fallen in love with an amazing (widower) man.  Both on or near 70 years old, and joyfully undertaking the second marriage of their lives.

On October 20, 2012, Rita Trefz and Bruce Allan tied the proverbial knot, adored by their assembled sisters, brothers, children, and grandchildren.

I don’t know which couple was more adorable, the shiny just-minted little newbies or the softly gleaming veterans, bearing the patina of pain and perseverance, who had a very different feeling when pronouncing the very same words.

Certainly they all felt same conviction and sincerity.  But it’s one thing to promise fidelity for better/for worse, for richer/for poorer, “in sickness and in health” when you’re young and iridescent with vitality — it’s like promising never to lie or to save ten dollars every month.  How hard could this be?

It’s another thing, though, to vow fidelity to someone “in sickness and health” when each of you has nursed your spouse through terminal cancer.

One meditates (“one”would be me) on the beauty of a couple’s determination to do something which they have never yet confronted, and hence has no idea whether or how they will manage to maintain the promise, or what toll it will take when they do.

One also meditates on the beauty of a couple’s promise to do a thing of which they clearly know the meaning, the depth, the breadth, the board feet, the gross tonnage, of what they’re saying.

In any case, all four spouses meant it with all their hearts.

They were good days for Kleenex.

I have no idea who she is, but I’m very happy I went out to do the shopping at the right moment on December 2, 2006.
Cristiana Rigotti gets ready to board our rowing club’s 8-oar gondola to be rowed in state, with her father, across the lagoon to the church of the Redentore at 3:30 PM on July 2, 2006. She’s smiling now, but it’s as hot as a skillet on a summer afternoon on the water, and the trip took at least 45 minutes.  I give her credit for grit.
I realize everyone was praying for it not to rain, but a prayer for a few more clouds wouldn’t have been a bad idea. Picture-perfect sun translates into the heat of Hades in July.
I was walking home on June 30, 2012, when I encountered this bride heading toward her reception (I think) at the nearby Greenhouse near the Giardini. The T-shirted man is not her groom, but one of several passersby who asked to have their picture taken with her. (She had just posed with the three women on the bench.) I never saw her groom, but she had fabulous red shoes, so I hope that wherever he was, he’s going to be able to keep up with her.
And then come kids, presumably — or in this case, tiny gnomes with pieces of bread.
And in the fullness of time, grandkids…..
…interspersed with the eternal, everlasting laundry….I think they ought to add “For cleaner, for dirtier” in the vows.
Then time passes and you keep getting older, and you have to sit down more often, but at least you’re still together.
And eventually one of you dies, and your friends or relatives or colleagues send big expensive wreaths to your funeral.
If you keep a shop, you shut it for a day or two and put up the notice of the demise of your spouse which includes the funeral details, so everybody can attend.
In this case, Giancarlo Cimitan passed away on Feb. 7, 2009, and the neighbors have put up their own notice too: It says “The friends and colleagues and everyone who loved Giancarlo  are close to Daniela.” I include this episode not to remind us that we all are doomed, but to remind us that Venice is not composed entirely of tourists.
So don’t be stingy with the kisses, people. They’re one of the few truly sustainable resources on this earth.
Continue Reading

Back to School

The national flag above the entrance to the middle school evinces about the same degree of enthusiasm as the students passing beneath it. Except that this flag has been this way for years, and it always looks like this, except when it’s not tangled up in itself when it looks even worse. This is an abomination and it beggars belief that nobody either in or out of the school notices, or cares.

Now that my computer is back to work, I can give a late but heartfelt salute to the First Day of School.  Officially it was September 12, but for the zeitgeist it’s been the entire month.

The elementary and middle school classes got a rousing sendoff by the Seniors Club (“Gruppo Anziani”), which organized a ceremony that probably softened the shock of re-entry (or in the case of the smaller children, first entry).  The children not only got applause from the assembled relatives and onlookers, but a gift, which is always a Good Thing, even if it was a Useful Present of school supplies.  Free swag distracts, even if only temporarily, from the realization that your life is no longer your own.

Some of the organizers put up a big poster announcing the Big Send-Off. It reads (translated by me): The Seniors Club and Odeon Club are giving school supplies to the students of the First and Second classes and augur that it may be the start of a long and profitable course of study.” (Smaller posters with the date and time were taped up around the neighborhood.) All this would need in order to sound any better would be a 21-gun salute, but I’m not going to be the one to suggest it.

And children go to school here on Saturday morning, too.  If that sounds painful, just remember how many vacations are strewn throughout the year.  I haven’t counted them, but I have the impression there is some kind of break almost every month.  Christmas!  Epiphany!  Winter holiday (“settimana bianca“) when school groups to go the mountains to ski.  Easter!  National Liberation Day!  And so on.

So the offspring are back under state control for half of each day, and the days are imperceptibly shortening, and the temperature is trying to drop, even if slowly and unwillingly. In a word: Autumn.

Some of the girls are looking pretty effervescent, even if they do have to sherpa backpacks that are bigger and heavier than they are. And that they have to wear the anonymous smock, which is required. Cheaper than a uniform, and nobody seems to mind wearing it down the street in public.
This little boy, though, was not with the program at all. I don’t know what set it off — perhaps the sudden realization that his life was no longer his own.
The troops are lined up and ready for cheers, blessings, applause, and free stuff.

 

Each bag had a name tag and each child was called by name. The smocks may be anonymous, but the old folks remembered that these were individual people. Probably most of them had known these sprouts since they were born.
And lest the old rumpsprung adults should feel left out, September brings a truckload of learn-this programs and activities. The useless dead vaporetto ticket booth is one of the local billboards, which at the moment are advertising classes in: Indian “Bollywood” dancing; belly-dancing; karate; cutting and sewing; languages (English, Spanish, French, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, American English, American Slang); Zumba; Latin ballroom dances; yoga for children; theatre for children, and so on. It’s the educational version of your New Year’s Resolutions all thrown into a pot and set on fire.
Continue Reading

Back to everything

I regret the lapse in communication.  The fundamental problem has been a dysfunctional computer which is still awaiting treatment.  That’s supposed to happen tomorrow. So there will be no pictures on this post.  I’m sorry.

But the morning is too beautiful to pass without recognition.  I don’t mean “beautiful” as in meteorologically, though there is that, too.  Light clouds, cooler air, gentler sunshine.

What’s beautiful right now is the entire atmosphere.  If it were possible for a hapless seagull to pass through an airplane’s turbine and come out in one piece, that would be me.  Apart from having guests coming and going, we have also been deeply involved in the Regata Storica and, yesterday, the Riveria Fiorita.  (We still have to put the boat away.)

But there has been more, even if we weren’t directly involved: The Biennale of Architecture (August 29-November 25), and the Venice Film Festival (August 28-September 8) — two world-class events opening on essentially the same day — have created their own special wildness. Our neighborhood — that is, the world — is a major center of activity at least for the former event, what with exhibitions strewn all over the lot.  The film festival is on the Lido, but that doesn’t mean we don’t get the collateral damage of troop-transport vaporettos and other issues resulting from attempting to fit 1X of people into 1Y of space.

To change metaphors, the sensation I had this morning, walking outside, was of having spent a month in a large pot of water which had been brought to a rolling boil, and which now had been put on the windowsill to cool down.

People have just gone away.  Even the kids are nowhere to be seen, because they’re all getting ready for school to start on Wednesday (if children can ever be said to be ready).  There is a pale, hushed, tranquil air enlivened only by soft voices saying indistinguishable, agreeable things.  This is quite a change from the shouting and crying and assorted other high-volume communications that have been shredding the air at all hours and far into the night.

The procession of French tourists who rent the apartment up one floor across the street has ended. No more listening to their open-window 3:00 PM multi-course lunches, or dodging the dripping from their laundry stretched on the line from their wall to ours.  No more (or hardly any more) heavy grumbling from the wheels of overloaded suitcases being dragged to, or from, hidden lodgings somewhere beyond us in the middle of the night (one group arrived at 1:00 AM, another headed to the airport at 3:30 AM.  I know because I checked the clock).  It’s not just the suitcases, it’s the discussions, though you might think they’d have settled the details before locking the door.

Now it’s just us here.

I don’t want to give the impression that I desire the silence of a Carthusian monastery to reign in Castello.  I’m only saying that one savors this particular silence with particular appreciation inspired by having experienced its opposite for a just a little too long.

I’m sorry you can’t all be here to savor this delicate loveliness, disregarding the fact that having you all here would mean it wouldn’t be so delicate anymore, no offense.  But in any case, nothing, as you know, lasts forever.  And school, as I mentioned, will be starting in 48 hours.  Tourists make noise?  I challenge them to overcome the clamor of squadrons of children meeting their friends on the street at 7:30 in the morning. The winners will be decided by the Olympic taekwondo judges.

 

Continue Reading

More daily life, much less sense

I went out this morning on a series of errands and came home more perplexed than when I left.  Perplexity is likely to increase wherever humans are to be found, and outside the door there is quite a supply of them.

Example: The little boy and his father who were walking toward me not far from via Garibaldi.  As they passed, I heard the boy ask, “E’ bella Parigi?”  Is Paris beautiful?

Considering that Paris is the #1 tourist city destination on earth (not made up), it’s not unlikely that his father had been there. What bemused me was that a seven- or eight-year-old boy — from Castello, no less, meaning no disrespect — was at all curious about Paris —  that he even knew it existed.  If school were in session, I’d have supposed he needed to know for some enigmatic project.  But all by himself, he wants to know if Paris is beautiful?  Zounds! Where will it end? Next thing you know, he’ll be wanting to construct the Gobi Desert in a bottle, or learn to compose haiku.

Now, though, I wonder if he was talking about Paris Hilton. But no, impossible.  Nobody would call her Parigi Hilton.

Still, this is nothing.  Consider what happened somewhat earlier on the #5.1 vaporetto going from San Zaccaria to the Lido.

I get on.  It’s crowded.  So far, so normal.

Down in the hold every seat is taken, and there are plenty of people in the aisle.  I edge into a small sliver of space.  I turn toward the bow and idly watch the rest of the people getting on.

You should know that the four first seats on the starboard and port sides (two pairs facing each other) are officially reserved for people in the following four categories: Pregnant women, women with children, an injured person, an old person.  An adhesive label on each seat demonstrates symbols for these, with the clarification in Italian and English that “old” means 70 and up.

You should also know that these seats are routinely taken by whoever wants them, of whatever nationality or condition, and that people — usually Venetian — of the four appropriate categories almost always have to ask (tell, actually) someone not old or otherwise incapacitated to get up and give them their seat. Sometimes these requests are not polite.

This morning all four seats are taken.  Normal.  One of them is occupied by a young man, somewhere between 20 and 25.

An old battle-axe comes down the steps and sees that all the seats are occupied.  Normal.  The young man does not get up.  Also normal, unfortunately.  It’s a rare person who gets up for the old and infirm or pregnant, unless their mother or wife commands them to do so.

The elderly man sitting on the aisle gets up  and gives her his seat.  Not very normal, but very nice.

Seated, the old lady fixes the young man with a stadium-floodlight glare, and a gesture of explication intended to clarify that he doesn’t belong where he’s sitting.  Also normal, but usually ineffectual.

But wait!  He gets up!  He doesn’t debate, he doesn’t rebut, he just gets up and goes to the aisle, where he stands with his beach stuff for the rest of the trip.

This is incredible. First, because he responds, and second, because he has not vacated the seat for anyone in particular.  He has merely vacated the seat because he’s supposed to. The usual response would have been along the lines of  “Well you’re sitting down now, so you obviously don’t need a seat, so get off my back.”

Meanwhile, there’s an empty seat! Manna from heaven!  Water from the rock!  But does somebody else nab it?  No!  This is where the strangeness really begins. The vaporetto is full, yet not one single person makes the tiniest move toward that seat.  True, it’s by the window, which means climbing over the two people facing each other on the aisle, but this is a tiny inconvenience compared to the dazzling value of finding a place to sit.

I am here to tell you that that seat remained empty for the rest of the trip. Nobody took it. When we pulled up to the Lido, it was still empty. Empty seats on vaporettos are the vacuum which nature is said to abhor — they actually cannot exist. It was as if some extraordinary force-field had surrounded it, repelling humans. There the seat was, and there it remained, a tiny island of space in the midst of a sea of people.

Back to the young man.  Why did he do this? There could be only one explanation: He was some well-brought-up, easily cowed visitor from some Anglo-Saxon land, where floodlight-glares convey real meaning and inspire real reactions.  I had to find out.

So I tapped him on the shoulder and asked if he spoke English.  A few pleasant but broken words revealed that he didn’t, very much.  Italian?  Much better!

It turns out that not only was he Italian (I presume he still is), but he comes from Mestre, just over the bridge. Which makes the entire event utterly incomprehensible.

There’s more!

I was standing in the shade of the dead ticket booth by the vaporetto dock at the Giardini, waiting for Lino to get home from rowing. Two men were talking just behind me.  They were electricians, or something, doing some little task for the transport company which involved rolling up bits of cable and suchlike.

One was talking to the other.  He said (translation by me, obviously):

“I was in Jesolo (a nearby beach town) and I was standing in line at the checkout at the supermarket.

“There was an old lady behind me with a cart full of stuff.

“She asked me, ‘Young man, could you let me go before you?  I left a pot cooking on the stove.’

“And I said, ‘Sorry, but I left my two-month-old son out in the car alone.’

“She said, ‘ARE YOU CRAZY??’

“So ‘I’m crazy leaving my kid in the car?’ I said. “You left the pot cooking on the stove.'”

I just started laughing.  Because it was obvious to him (and to me) that the untended pot was a fable, something she made up so she could jump ahead. Little old people can be brilliant at inventing these fake dramas.

“If she’d said, ‘My feet are killing me,’ I’d have let her go ahead,” he told me.  “But a pot on the stove?  Naaah.”

Now that I come to think of it, I don’t know whether his kid in the car was a fable, too. It wouldn’t surprise me.  He was pretty sharp.

All of this happened before noon today.  I need to take my brain in for a 5,000-mile checkup; I think some parts are wearing out.

 

 

 

Continue Reading