More looking around

While I’m working on a post with slightly more substance, I thought I’d send out a few recent diverting glimpses:

    A week ago I saw the first peach blossoms of spring. Some people look for primroses, but the peaches do it for me. Too bad they won't be in the market in six months in edible form, but this is definitely a good sign.
A week ago I saw the first peach blossoms of spring, accompanied by a few pussy willows. Some people look for daffodils or primroses, but the peaches do it for me. Seeing them now in this form means I won’t be seeing them later in edible form, but this is definitely a good sign.

IMG_5325  putt flowers

For anyone who might have wondered what this sign could have been promoting, it is written in Venetian.  The Italian equivalent would be: "Cosa bolle oggi in pentola.  Zuppa di trippa, pasta e fagioli, musetto caldo."  What's boiling in the pot today?  Tripe soup, pasta and beans, hot musetto.  Musetto is a thick sausage-like object about 6 inches long which is made of ground pork, specifically the muso, or face, or snout, of the pig.  It's hugely good but considering its fat content, it's really good only in the winter, when food involving hot fat exert their fatal appeal.
For anyone who might have wondered what this sign could have been promoting, it is mostly written in Venetian. (I say “mostly” because the Venetian for “oggi” is “ancuo.”) The Italian equivalent would be: “Cosa bolle oggi in pentola. Zuppa di trippa, pasta e fagioli, musetto caldo.” “What’s boiling in the pot today? Tripe soup, pasta and beans, hot musetto.” Musetto is a thick sausage-like object about 6 inches long which is made of ground pork, specifically the muso, or face, or snout, of the pig. It’s hugely good but only in the winter, when foods involving hot fat exert their fatal appeal.
Who says Carnival is only for walking around in the Piazza San Marco? The cashier at our local supermarket is totally into the spirit.
Who says Carnival is only for walking around in the Piazza San Marco? The cashier at our local supermarket is totally into the spirit.
IMG_5608  putt lagoon
I spied this pair of unknown birds at low tide (admiring how cleverly their colors blended with the mud). Lino thought they were jackdaws, a species of crow known here as  “tacoe” (TAH-kow-eh), or Coloeus monedula. However, a sharp-eyed reader has confirmed them to be hooded crows (cornacchia grigia, in Italian), Corvus cornix.  Never seen them before.  If I’d been in a motorboat I wouldn’t have seen them this time, either, they’d long since have flown away.  Another fine reason to row.
On a small side street there is still someone using the old-fashioned doorbell, as in door + bell, a real bell, which rings upstairs when you pull on the handle so conveniently placed outside.
On a small side street there is still someone using the old-fashioned doorbell, as in door + bell, a real bell, which rings upstairs when you pull on the handle so conveniently placed outside.  I’m showing the entire door to draw attention also to how high the handle is.  No funny games by bored little hands, for sure.
IMG_5636  putt doorbell
This is a sturdy, businesslike handle that seems to discourage frivolous ringings. The proprietor’s name is incised on the small bronze rectangle, and the floor he or she or they live on.  When Lino was a lad, most people had doorbells like this one, but his family didn’t add a name tag.
The wire reaches all the way up to the designated domicile and disappears into the wall (obviously).
The wire reaches all the way up to the designated domicile and disappears into the wall (obviously).
A few steps down the street, there is another house with the old doorbell handle,
A few steps down the street, there is another house with the old doorbell handle, but this one doesn’t completely convince me.  There may well be three tenants, but the two modern doorbells  make me wonder.  I must go check sometime.
This is the bell that rang in Lino's childhood home, salvaged from an extremely damp (as you see) storage area more or less at canal level.  An object something like a nail (he doen't remember exactly) was passed through the tightly-wound roll of metal on the right, which held the bell upright against the wall.  The wire to be pulled from below was attached just above the bell.  Maybe all that's obvious, but I just thought I'd make sure...
This is the bell that rang in Lino’s childhood home, salvaged from an extremely damp (as you see) storage area more or less at canal level. An object something like a nail (he doesn’t remember exactly) was passed through the tightly-wound roll of metal on the right, which held the bell upright against the wall. The wire to be pulled from below was attached just above the bell.
And it makes a spectacular clang.  Bronze on bronze makes it impossible to say "Oh, was that you?  I didn't hear anything."
And it makes a spectacular clang. Bronze on bronze makes it impossible to say “Oh, was that you? I didn’t hear anything.”

 

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Just looking

I walk out the front door and sooner rather than later I notice things that make me ponder.  Sometimes I ponder deeply and fruitlessly, and sometimes I do Ponder Lite and just absorb the beauty.

Here are some recent places and things that made me look twice:

It was 6:01 AM on the 5.2 motoscafo from the Giardini toward Piazzale Ro,a.  I was surprised to see so many people already in transit, but gobsmacked to see how the man in the aisle had organized himself for the voyage.  In all these years I have never seen this solution to standing-room-only.  While it's true that I have seen other people and their luggage take up the same amount of space, and it's true that he is not blocking the aisle (though I cannot grasp why this human bear wouldn't remove his backpack.  does it make him feel safe?  Smaller?).  There is nothing WRONG with what he's doing, it's just
It was 6:01 AM on the 5.2 motoscafo from the Giardini toward Piazzale Roma. I was surprised to see so many people already in transit, but gobsmacked to see how the man in the aisle had organized himself for the voyage. In all these years I have never seen this solution to standing-room-only. It’s true that I have seen other people and their luggage take up the same amount of space, and it’s true that he is not blocking the aisle (though I cannot grasp why this human bear wouldn’t remove his backpack. Does it make him feel safe? Smaller?). There is nothing WRONG with what he’s doing, it’s just outlandish.  My trying to imagine what the ride would be like if everybody decided to bring their own chairs doesn’t help me feel any better about this.  And yet I still can’t say why.
A few weeks ago there was quite a flurry of activity at one of the entrances to the Giardini.  A few men in full gear labored all day, and part of the next day, to install a brace on this tree worthy of the Leaning Tower of Suurhusen.  The amount of effort and money dedicated to bracing this plant is entirely praiseworthy, but I withhold my praise because while I agree that plants have as much of a right to live as komodo dragons and Hungerford's crawling water beetle, it also seems that they could just as well have cut the tree down and planted a young one.  This isn't the Treaty Oak or the Endicott Pear Tree.
A few weeks ago there was quite a flurry of activity at one of the entrances to the Giardini. A few men in full gear labored all day, and part of the next day, to install a brace on this tree that could perhaps have been more useful on the Leaning Tower of Suurhusen. The amount of effort and money dedicated to supporting this plant is entirely praiseworthy, but I withhold my praise because while I agree that plants have as much of a right to live as Komodo dragons and Hungerford’s crawling water beetle, it also seems that they could just as well have cut the tree down and planted a young one. This isn’t the Treaty Oak or the Endicott Pear Tree, though perhaps someone somewhere thinks that if it can be kept upright, eventually this tree will achieve some status worthy of the Guinness Book.
Your average feral rock pigeon is kind of loathsome, but this bird seems to have been created by a Persian calligrapher.
Your average feral rock pigeon is kind of loathsome, but this bird seems to have been created by a Persian calligrapher.
And speaking of birds, in addition to the usual egrets I discovered that there was a swan stretching its wings. Wild swans are among the many species of bird that depends on the lagoon more than any of us do, and I remember one winter morning when we were out rowing when three of them flew over us, very low, and I could see their necks undulating slightly and hearing a curious low sound which I thought came from their throats, but which I now learn was the air passing around their large, majestic wings.
And speaking of birds, in addition to the usual egrets I discovered that there was a swan stretching its wings. Wild swans are among the many species of bird that depend on the lagoon more than any of us do, and I remember one winter morning when we were out rowing when three of them flew over us, very low, and I could see their necks undulating slightly and hearing a curious low sound which I thought came from their throats, but which I now learn was the air passing around their large, majestic wings.
The game is on, Watson -- here, the traces of hopscotch, known in Italy as "campana"or "mondo" ("bell" or "world").  Nice to know there's something other than soccer going on here.
The game is on, Watson — here, the traces of hopscotch, known in Venice as “campanon” (“big bell”). Lino says boys play it too.  Nice to know there’s something other than soccer going on here.
At certain vantage points, the rising sun makes some excellent reflections.
At certain vantage points, the rising sun makes some excellent reflections.
Reflections are almost better than the thing being reflected. Some philosopher can probably explain that.
Reflections are almost better than the thing being reflected. Some philosopher can probably explain that.
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Free pass? Well, yes, sort of

This picture has no relevance to this post. I haven't got the strength to make pictures that would demonstrate all the salient points, and they'd be depressing anyway. So we'll just look at lovely things to remember how wonderful it is to be here.
This picture has no relevance to this post. I haven’t got the strength to make pictures that would demonstrate all the salient points, and they’d be depressing anyway. So we’ll just look at lovely things to remember how wonderful it is to be here.

The statement has long since become a cliche’: “Whom the gods would destroy, they first make mad.”

But the saying doesn’t hint at the means by which the insanity is inflicted.  I can enlighten you.

It’s bureaucracy.  Which makes sense, considering the apparent skills of the many people (I am pointing no fingers, nor naming names — they know who they are), the individuals, groups, political parties, sewing circles, volleyball teams, whoever it may be that creates ever more complicated regulations for achieving the simplest ends.

Naturally I have a personal case study to submit as evidence.  And it will not surprise anyone to hear that it involves the ACTV.  The public transport — I hesitate to call it a system, much less a service — organization is like an enormous special-needs class (no disrespect meant to the real thing).

We have known for years that the ACTV issues a free monthly pass to Venetians who are 75 years old or more (note: there will be a catch to this, because it is too simple).  I knew it when Lino reached that landmark, and when he passed the subsequent landmark.  I became obsessed with the fact that we were paying for something each month that he could get for free.

So what was holding me, him, us back?  The application process.  Because while the ACTV may say that they want you to have this benefit (something they have never said, but let’s pretend), they struggle painfully against providing it.

Other Venetians who have the free pass, including some of our close relatives, have pounded on us several times a year with the hammerblows of “It’s really easy to get.”  I knew that couldn’t be true.

But guess what?  I found out this morning that it was, in fact, easy to get — up until Dec. 31, 2014.  But we started the application process on January 28, just after a mass of new regulations went into effect, and discovered ourselves at the foot of the bureaucratic equivalent of the North Face of the Eiger.  Yet another example of the “You should’ve been here yesterday” that haunts my life.

But we didn’t know that detail when we turned for succor to one extremely tired but meticulous and conscientious man in an office dedicated to helping citizens with various forms of paperwork — an office run, not by the city, may I note, but by one of the many labor unions.  Say what you will about unions, this is one spot on the globe where generations of sacrifice and effort have borne some kind of fruit.

I may have mentioned that the applicant has to be 75 or over.  Now comes the catch.  It’s not enough to be old — you also have to be poor (a maximum annual income of 16,631.71 euros, or $18,757.60).  Happily, I guess, we are in that category.  But don’t take our word for it.  They want proof.

IMG_5202  putt

Here is what Lino had to bring to the sainted man embroiled in completing our application process for the ACTV free pass:

His ID card (to confirm date of birth, also residency, also citizenship, I guess).

His codice fiscale (like a Social Security number).

A statement from the bank summarizing our average monthly balance.

A document from the bank detailing our mortgage, our monthly payments, and when it will be paid off.

A many-page document from our accountant which itemizes his income and outgo for 2014, as sent to the Income Tax people.

The document registered with the “catasto,” a city agency for which I cannot find an intelligible translation.  This details the precise dimensions of our domicile and assigns an official assessment of its value.  Just to make sure that we’re not buying an apartment the size of a Welcome mat for  800,000 euros (not the price) on an income that’s below the poverty line.  You know how sneaky those rich people are, pretending to be poor, which in fact is not a joke.  I give the ACTV slight credit for attempting to ensure that we’re not in that category of person, although that category of person often manages to find a way to — as the saying goes here — have their wife drunk and the cask of wine still full.  If you get my drift.  I say, Make the rule Age or Destitution, but not both.  But no.

My ID card.

My codice fiscale.

Acquiring these documents entailed two trips to the bank, one trip to the accountant, and two trips to the union office, where we had to wait for most of one morning for our turn, like sitting in a hospital emergency room without a serious emergency.

NOW we have to wait 15 days, then call the sainted man to find out if he’s got the approval, so we can take the ACTV application form to the ACTV office and get the pass.  Lino says the two-week wait is because all our information will be sent to some federal office where our data will be compared with their data, just in case Lino turns out to be one of those devious rich people who tries to pull a fast one.

I might be inclined to applaud the organization’s efforts to avoid being exploited, but there are so many loopholes through which the rich easily pass that it seems ludicrous to devastate everybody’s gonads just to show that you can.

But I may not be seeing this the right — I mean the ACTV — way.

Just give him the pass already.

January is an excellent month in the lagoon -- the typical extreme low tides bring all sorts of birds to the exposed mudflats. There is always one grey heron to be seen here, though rarely this close.  He was born with his own transportation, lucky him.
January is an excellent month in the lagoon — the typical extreme low tides bring all sorts of birds to the exposed mudflats. There is always one grey heron to be seen here, though rarely this close. He was born with his own transportation, lucky him.

 

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A tiny bonus screed on Venice

Winter here is just the best.  One day you have fog.....
Winter here is just the best. One day you have fog…..

As a freelance journalist, I have written about many things for many publications over the eons.  Though I’m publishing less frequently at the moment than in days of yore, I have just written a small piece on Venice for National Geographic’s online News.

Most readers will recognize familiar themes, but I thought I’d provide the link here anyway.  At the least, it’s something for you to read while you’re waiting for the water to boil and I’m whipping up another post.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/01/150129-venice-my-town-zwingle-grand-canal-motondoso-piazza-san-marco-vaporetto/

By the way, a very important but unaccountably missing link in the online text is for the Venice Project Center:

veniceprojectcenter.org

And another day you have sun.
And another day you have sun.  Something for everybody.
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