Free pass? Well, yes, sort of

This picture has no relevance to this post. I haven't got the strength to make pictures that would demonstrate all the salient points, and they'd be depressing anyway. So we'll just look at lovely things to remember how wonderful it is to be here.
This picture has no relevance to this post. I haven’t got the strength to make pictures that would demonstrate all the salient points, and they’d be depressing anyway. So we’ll just look at lovely things to remember how wonderful it is to be here.

The statement has long since become a cliche’: “Whom the gods would destroy, they first make mad.”

But the saying doesn’t hint at the means by which the insanity is inflicted.  I can enlighten you.

It’s bureaucracy.  Which makes sense, considering the apparent skills of the many people (I am pointing no fingers, nor naming names — they know who they are), the individuals, groups, political parties, sewing circles, volleyball teams, whoever it may be that creates ever more complicated regulations for achieving the simplest ends.

Naturally I have a personal case study to submit as evidence.  And it will not surprise anyone to hear that it involves the ACTV.  The public transport — I hesitate to call it a system, much less a service — organization is like an enormous special-needs class (no disrespect meant to the real thing).

We have known for years that the ACTV issues a free monthly pass to Venetians who are 75 years old or more (note: there will be a catch to this, because it is too simple).  I knew it when Lino reached that landmark, and when he passed the subsequent landmark.  I became obsessed with the fact that we were paying for something each month that he could get for free.

So what was holding me, him, us back?  The application process.  Because while the ACTV may say that they want you to have this benefit (something they have never said, but let’s pretend), they struggle painfully against providing it.

Other Venetians who have the free pass, including some of our close relatives, have pounded on us several times a year with the hammerblows of “It’s really easy to get.”  I knew that couldn’t be true.

But guess what?  I found out this morning that it was, in fact, easy to get — up until Dec. 31, 2014.  But we started the application process on January 28, just after a mass of new regulations went into effect, and discovered ourselves at the foot of the bureaucratic equivalent of the North Face of the Eiger.  Yet another example of the “You should’ve been here yesterday” that haunts my life.

But we didn’t know that detail when we turned for succor to one extremely tired but meticulous and conscientious man in an office dedicated to helping citizens with various forms of paperwork — an office run, not by the city, may I note, but by one of the many labor unions.  Say what you will about unions, this is one spot on the globe where generations of sacrifice and effort have borne some kind of fruit.

I may have mentioned that the applicant has to be 75 or over.  Now comes the catch.  It’s not enough to be old — you also have to be poor (a maximum annual income of 16,631.71 euros, or $18,757.60).  Happily, I guess, we are in that category.  But don’t take our word for it.  They want proof.

IMG_5202  putt

Here is what Lino had to bring to the sainted man embroiled in completing our application process for the ACTV free pass:

His ID card (to confirm date of birth, also residency, also citizenship, I guess).

His codice fiscale (like a Social Security number).

A statement from the bank summarizing our average monthly balance.

A document from the bank detailing our mortgage, our monthly payments, and when it will be paid off.

A many-page document from our accountant which itemizes his income and outgo for 2014, as sent to the Income Tax people.

The document registered with the “catasto,” a city agency for which I cannot find an intelligible translation.  This details the precise dimensions of our domicile and assigns an official assessment of its value.  Just to make sure that we’re not buying an apartment the size of a Welcome mat for  800,000 euros (not the price) on an income that’s below the poverty line.  You know how sneaky those rich people are, pretending to be poor, which in fact is not a joke.  I give the ACTV slight credit for attempting to ensure that we’re not in that category of person, although that category of person often manages to find a way to — as the saying goes here — have their wife drunk and the cask of wine still full.  If you get my drift.  I say, Make the rule Age or Destitution, but not both.  But no.

My ID card.

My codice fiscale.

Acquiring these documents entailed two trips to the bank, one trip to the accountant, and two trips to the union office, where we had to wait for most of one morning for our turn, like sitting in a hospital emergency room without a serious emergency.

NOW we have to wait 15 days, then call the sainted man to find out if he’s got the approval, so we can take the ACTV application form to the ACTV office and get the pass.  Lino says the two-week wait is because all our information will be sent to some federal office where our data will be compared with their data, just in case Lino turns out to be one of those devious rich people who tries to pull a fast one.

I might be inclined to applaud the organization’s efforts to avoid being exploited, but there are so many loopholes through which the rich easily pass that it seems ludicrous to devastate everybody’s gonads just to show that you can.

But I may not be seeing this the right — I mean the ACTV — way.

Just give him the pass already.

January is an excellent month in the lagoon -- the typical extreme low tides bring all sorts of birds to the exposed mudflats. There is always one grey heron to be seen here, though rarely this close.  He was born with his own transportation, lucky him.
January is an excellent month in the lagoon — the typical extreme low tides bring all sorts of birds to the exposed mudflats. There is always one grey heron to be seen here, though rarely this close. He was born with his own transportation, lucky him.

 

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A tiny bonus screed on Venice

Winter here is just the best.  One day you have fog.....
Winter here is just the best. One day you have fog…..

As a freelance journalist, I have written about many things for many publications over the eons.  Though I’m publishing less frequently at the moment than in days of yore, I have just written a small piece on Venice for National Geographic’s online News.

Most readers will recognize familiar themes, but I thought I’d provide the link here anyway.  At the least, it’s something for you to read while you’re waiting for the water to boil and I’m whipping up another post.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/01/150129-venice-my-town-zwingle-grand-canal-motondoso-piazza-san-marco-vaporetto/

By the way, a very important but unaccountably missing link in the online text is for the Venice Project Center:

veniceprojectcenter.org

And another day you have sun.
And another day you have sun.  Something for everybody.
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The last holiday gasp

The tree has served its purpose, and now it's on to the mulch-mill, or wherever trees go to be reincarnated.  Of course this isn't the correct way to dispose of your spare timber.  When Lino was a lad, nobody had trees -- they had broth with tortelliniand were thankful to have that.  When trees began to be used, they were disposed of in the same way as much of the other trash: out the window into the water.  Nowadays you're supposed to work it out with the garbage collector, but as you see, that's too troublesome for some people, who'd rather haul it to the curb, so to speak, and just leave it.
The tree has served its purpose, and now it’s on to the mulch-mill, or wherever trees go to be reincarnated. Of course this isn’t the correct way to dispose of your spare timber. When Lino was a lad, nobody had trees at Christmas — they had broth with homemade tortellini and were thankful. When trees began to be used, they were often disposed of in the same way as much of the other trash: with a splash. Nowadays you’re supposed to work it out with the garbage collector, but as you see, that’s irksome for some people, who’d rather haul it to the curb, so to speak, and just leave it to its fate.

The high tide of the holidays has washed over the calendar, the budget, the crumpled handful of tomato-stained to-do and to-buy lists, and as the tide retreats into the new year, I thought I’d give a tiny review of the two weeks (it seems so much longer) just past.

After so many holiday seasons here, I don’t have much to say that’s new.  Christmas, New Year, and the ineffable Befana have passed in orderly single file, and here we are, facing the next 12 months.  The holidays don’t end on New Year’s Day, they drip on for another few days till the day after Epiphany, which my calendar says is dedicated to St. Raimondo de Penafort, who must be the patron saint of children going back to school.

The panettoni are now on sale at drastically marked-down prices (2 for 7 euros? You could stock up now for next Christmas!).  But anybody who has managed to finish one is glad to see the box disappear.  My own experience is that I love the first two wedges, and after that it's an increasing struggle to get through it.  This person is happier than I am, because we've got two more in the gift pile and you know nobody is going to want one, even as a gift.  Yes, I know: If only all problems were this innocent, not to mention easy to resolve.
If the panettone is gone, can the box be far behind?  Obviously not.  Hardly anything says “party’s over” like a busted panettone-box.  The panettoni are now on sale at drastically slashed prices (2 for 7 euros? You could stock up now for next Christmas!). But anybody who has managed to finish one is glad to see the box disappear. My own experience is that I love the first two wedges, and after that it’s an increasing struggle to get through it. The person who left this dismembered box is happier than I, because we’ve still got two more panettoni  in the gift pile and we can’t fob them off on anyone, even as a gift. Yes, I know: If only all problems were this innocent, not to mention easy to resolve.
This is a cry for help.  It may also demonstrate a buyer who seriously misjudged demand, and/or let himself be convinced by a price that was even more drastically low.  I'mi imagining the seller saying something like "Buy 2,000 panettoni and spend only 50 cents each."  I wonder if there's a dead panettone dump somewhere, a mountain of rejected Christmas confectionery.  I hope never to know.
This is a cry for help. It may also demonstrate a buyer who seriously misjudged demand, and/or let a producer beguile him with a price that was even more drastically low. I’mi imagining the seller saying something like “Buy 2,000 panettoni and you pay a mere 50 cents each.” I wonder if there’s a dead panettone dump somewhere, a mountain of rejected Christmas confectionery. I hope never to know.

How to beguile the dead-air space between New Year’s and Epiphany?  The old-folks’ club of Castello East, which undertakes some very charming initiatives for the neighborhood kids, came up with a new idea this year.  On Epiphany Eve (last Monday), they arranged for some of the carnival rides which are here for their annual two- to three-month stint, to open at 10:00 AM, and they were free for children up to 11 years old. I think it was a very likeable idea, even if not very many kids made it out into the sunshine from their festive lairs (fancy way of saying “beds”).

This is the usual method of advertising local events -- just type it up, print it out, and stick it on a wall somewhere.
This is the usual method of advertising local events — just type it up, print it out, and stick it on a wall somewhere.  It says: “Elder Group Castello-East, Monday 5 January 2014 The group of elderly in collaboration with the operators of the carnival-rides on the Riva Sette Martiri offer a turn on all the rides, cotton candy and candy to children not older than 11 years old.  From 10:00 AM to 12:00.  Whoever wants to contribute candy or chocolate is very welcome; just come to the group’s headquarters.”  I took a bag of candy to the clubhouse, my tiny contribution to the revels.  I’m not responsible for anybody’s teeth.
Kids in sugar shock before noon.  free candy and cotton candy, too.  Just what played-out parents and grandparents want: Kids in sugar-shock before noon.
Free candy and cotton candy?  Just what played-out parents and grandparents want: Kids in sugar-shock before noon.

IMG_4604  blog new year

IMG_4597  blog new year

I realize that the modest turnout was probably due to sheer sloth on the part of the kids. But I also think there was another drawback: Sunshine. I'm convinced that half, if not more, of the fatal fascination of these rides is that you indulge at night, when the lights are at their most dazzling and you're out late in the dark. Taking a ride in the daytime is like somebody giving you an apple as a treat when you really want a deep-fried Mars bar.
I realize that the modest turnout was probably due to sheer sloth on the part of the kids. But I also think there was another drawback: Sunshine. I’m convinced that half, if not more, of the fatal fascination of these rides is that you indulge at night, when the lights are at their most dazzling and you’re out late in the dark. Taking a ride in the daytime is like somebody giving you an apple as a treat when you really want a deep-fried Mars bar.

 

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Reprieved!

Compare this sunset view to the one of two days ago. No exegesis required.
Compare this sunset view to the one of two days ago.  No comment required.

Yes, the haze has evaporated, or migrated, or flown — anyway, it’s gone.

Yesterday afternoon the wind veered around to the northeast, where the bora lurks.  A northeast wind may be fierce, and even dangerous, and whatever else you want to call it (especially if you live on the northeastern edge of the city, where you get it straight in the teeth), but I call it just about my favorite wind.

Perhaps you have never thought about the various winds, and their characteristics.  Here’s a thumbnail:  “Scirocco,” southeast wind.  Warm and damp and, if it’s strong, it becomes an unindicted co-conspirator of acqua alta.

“Garbin,” southwest wind, known in Italian as libeccio.  Its special trick is to bring fog — I mean real fog, not the haze of the past few weeks.  It can also blow like blue blazes.

“Bora,” northeast wind.  Cold and dry.  That’s why I love it.  I can deal with the cold, as long as it brings the dry.  As for force, it can be ferocious, though here we don’t usually get the extremes that can make the bora life-threatening in Trieste.  Not made up.

There are many fine variations of wind as you work your way around the compass, but those are my main players.  When I look at the weather forecast, I don’t primarily care whether it says rain or sun, or even cold or hot. I look to see which direction the wind is predicted to come from, and its speed.  I can deduce most of the other attributes from that, at least as far as my modest needs are concerned.

Oh sorry, that was redundant.  All my needs are, by definition, modest.  Example: Comes the bora, Erla is happy.  You can’t get much simpler than that, at least if you’re a person who really doesn’t care about rubies and platinum and Densuke black watermelons and lavender albino ball pythons, like humble, honest, hard-working, plain-speaking little me.

Turning the other direction, I see not only sun, but shadows, for the first time in several eons.  Not only is this air you can breathe, it's air that knows what to do with your laundry.
Turning the other direction, I see not only sun, but shadows, for the first time in several eons. This isn’t just  air you can breathe, it’s air that knows what to do with your laundry.  You can’t see me here, but believe me, I’m happy.
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