Now tourists are robbing tourists?

Tourists want beautiful glass, so this shopowner sometimes has to dust everything, or wash it with Windex, or whatever she’s doing. The visitors I’m talking about aren’t interested in glass, though.

The story about making money off tourists has taken a few turns since my recent post.  It would probably be more accurate to call the following characters “short-term visitors” rather than tourists, because their purpose in being here does not resemble in any way whatever the typical tourists are seeking.

First, there are what journalist Elisio Trevisan, in his report for the Gazzettino, calls “beggar-commuters.”  We are now learning that an increasing number come to Venice from various Eastern European points on what you might call, not a vacation, really, but a sort of brief work-abroad project.  They come on the cheap Flixbus (which is great, by the way), set themselves up as beggars, eat at the community soup-kitchens, sleep in doorways, and can make as much as 100 euros per day.  They manage to wash up at some public source of water before the return trip (the bus driver won’t let them board otherwise) and go home to their families with enough to live on till the next trip becomes necessary.

Then there are the regular thieves.  They too are coming from elsewhere; they also are not exactly tourists, but tastes on vacations vary.  Some people take a break and go surfing, or look at the Mona Lisa, or run with a batch of bulls, while these intrepid pilferers come to Venice to steal for a while.  According to Carlo Mion writing in La Nuova Venezia, they come over from Lombardy, the region next door, and are usually organized by family or clan.

This egret, who seems to have adopted our riva, is also on the hunt, but not for money.  He’s looking for anguele (ang-WEY),  the Mediterranean sand smelt (Atherinus hepterus).  I imagine that anguela mothers are warning their spawn about him the same way I’m warning you, though I suppose their main advice would be “Dive!  Dive!”

The Carabinieri have been studying them and their systems.  They are basically from the Balkans and eastward (Romania, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, and also a contingent of Roma).  They dress in a credible way; the women wear panama hats and big scarves (to cover their faces from surveillance cameras), daypack hoisted on their chests and with a city map in hand (to cover their busy hands).  Also, they look very touristy this way.  Favorite targets: Americans, Koreans, Japanese.  During one brief shining period there were also cash-laden Russians.  In any case, a clever faux-tourist can gather as much as 300 euros in a day.

In one recent case, it was 700 euros.  Two Bulgarian women lifted the wallet (that also included her documents such as passport, I assume, and perhaps also credit cards) of an 80-year-old American woman.  The victim wasn’t aware of anything amiss, so I don’t know who raised the hue and cry.  In any case, the filchers were taken away by whichever uniformed officer was on duty.  The hearing is scheduled for the end of July — “in theory.”  That doesn’t sound  encouraging.  In any case, whatever happens, they will be back.  Or their friends and relatives.

Years ago there was a spate of street gamblers playing the shell game around the city, especially on the Accademia Bridge.  (This sort of thief has not reappeared so far.)  I read in the newspaper that one day lightning-fingers managed to milk a gullible player of $5,000.  It’s not funny in any way, but I have to admit that, at least in this case, that the victim, as well as his trickster, must have become a LEGEND in that Serbian family.  Every couple of months somebody will want to hear uncle tell the story again of that time in Venice he peeled the money off the tourist and that’s how come they’re living in such a nice house, with a garden and two cars.  A boisterous toast to uncle and tourist.
I hope this is the last time I’ll be droning on about the situation.  So just take every precaution, and then take some more.
Venice: Worth seeing. Your valuables: Worth keeping.

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11 Comments

    1. I appreciate your compliment, but in this case I give huge credit to reporters Trevisan and Mion. Grazie infinite, ragazzi!

  1. I think you must be the only person who can turn an elegant phrase around the topic of pickpockets! 🙂

    1. Happily accept compliment, you have warmed my heart. Now I’m on the trail of some more agreeable subjects.

    1. You mean steal? Well yes, that could work, at least for a little while. Good luck with that!

      By the way, speaking of expensive cities — take a little side trip to Brussels, like we did last month. The prices will make your hair stand on end. 3.50 for an espresso that isn’t even an espresso? How do you say “That’s insane” in Flemish?

      Fun fact: A recent study revealed that the most expensive city in Italy is Milan. Venice is fourth, following Bergamo (Bergamo?) and Rome. Another study maintained that the most expensive city is Bolzano. Anyway, just trying to encourage you to think of Venice as a budget destination.

  2. Isn’t this kinda old news? Like the army of ‘crippled’ that arrive on the morning train and scurry to their designated point ready to prostrate themselves with their cup and sign to await the arrival of the tourists/elderly Venetians. These are the same ‘cripples’ that are suddenly healed at 16:00 when they all scurry back to the station and head back to Piazalle Roma where the minibus picks them all up to go ‘home’.

    1. I didn’t intend to be presenting it as new news at all — I think I’ve written about this already in the past at some point. But assuming that not everybody who reads my blog is already totally familiar with the situation, it seemed worthwhile to cover the information again.

  3. Always love your interesting observations and news on Venezia my favourite place on earth. Can hardly wait to return. We spent 3 months there this year and returned in April and are planning our next return at the end of next year. Sooner if I win lotto🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

  4. I suspect we all suffer from cynical responses to picturesque “beggars” strewn on steps of bridges etc, in Venice, but there are at least as many similar professionals in London, or I suspect, other major cities.
    It’s important to maintain personal safety with money / documents, anywhere nowadays, I’m afraid.

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