This is the view out our front door as the situation was reaching the problematic stage. In this case, though, it wasn’t so much the water that we were looking at as the height our boat was reaching. This was the point at we put on our hip waders and went to tie the boat to the barely-visible metal railing. The reason: The boat was in imminent danger of rising so high it would slip off the pilings it’s tied to and float away with the wind and the current. It happened to more than one person.
On October 29, 2018, there was water on plenty of floors. The tide wouldn’t have been all that high if the waning moon had been in charge of the weather, but the wind took over, reaching gusts of some 70 km/h (45 mph). The scirocco, or southeast wind, was what really brought the water home.
The media was flooded (sorry) with dramatic images of not one, but two “exceptional” high tides. “Exceptional” is the official term for any height over 140 cm above mean sea level (we got 156 cm at about 3:00 PM, 148 cm at about 11:00 PM). And, as Lino and I know from our experience ten years ago, 150 cm is the limit of the top step leading into our apartment. Therefore we had already gotten busy preparing our humble dwelling for this uninvited guest.
So the water came in but, in the time-honored way of the tide, it also went out. And I — along with everybody in the city at street level — can tell you that while “water on the ground” (as the common phrase here expresses it when the quantities of water are more modest) provides dramatic photos, water on the floor is tiring. Everybody’s next day was dedicated to cleaning up. Which is also tiring.
Because many friends have so kindly asked how we are (or, by this time, how we were), here is a little chronicle of the event as we lived it. There aren’t many pictures of the water outside our house because, as you’ll see, we had plenty to take care of inside.
It wasn’t fun, and of course it created major problems for vaporettos, ambulances, and other necessary boats which wouldn’t have been able to pass under the bridges. But the water here wasn’t anything like the monstrous flooding of the rivers devastating the Veneto region, where epic rain had filled some rivers, such as the Piave, up to 30 feet above their normal height. Bridges overwhelmed, roads completely impassable, houses drowned up to their second-story windows. Unlike high tide, flooding rivers kill people, so no wailing from us. Our water meant I had to dust and wash things I certainly had no interest in dusting or washing, but everything is back to normal for us. Out in the countryside, they can’t even see “normal” on the horizon yet.
The view inside was dramatic in a different way. Everything was either up on blocks, so to speak, or on the bed (which I won’t show because all the stuff piled up is just too appalling. And dusty. It’s been ten years since the last time this happened, and I had no idea how much dust there was under there).I usually watch the top step at the front door to gauge the height of the water, but Lino showed me an entertaining new way to keep track: The tiny triangular brick in the wall across the street. That brick is exactly at 150 cm. So I watched the brick. Not much else to do, all the chairs were up on the table.We opened the door, not because we’re so hospitable, but because the water would have come in under it anyway. On the right side of the doorway is the metal frame which was installed to hold the well-known panel intended to keep the water out. You notice there is no panel (it’s up on the sofa at the moment). The first time we used it — which was also the last time — the water didn’t come under the door, it came through the wall under the kitchen sink, and up through a fissure in the floor. This time it didn’t come through the wall, so we learned our lesson.Meanwhile, as the water is spreading across almost our entire apartment floor, one can only wait for the tide to turn. There’s a difference between resignation and acceptance. When you’ve reached acceptance, having a coffee is the rational thing to do while waiting to be able to get back to normal.
The next morning, I had some errands to do on via Garibaldi. As I expected, what I saw wasn’t a scene of destruction and lamentation but universal enforced housecleaning. The Venetian bucket brigade, with mops.
While his son was busy with the water vacuum, Gianni at CityMedia got busy with the mop and a bottle of alcohol, which he said made the floor dry faster. Neat trick, wish I’d known that earlier. But I guess there will be a next time.The Coop supermarket was kind enough to clarify the situation for any early customers who couldn’t interpret the significance of what the employees were doing. The Italian version on the right-hand side politely added that they would be opening as soon as they could. Please do without your bag of potato chips and bottle of beer for a little while longer.At the pharmacy: Bucket and mop, check. Things up on plastic boxes, check. Soggy dirty mat at entrance, check. This would be the perfect moment to ask for lip filler, or to bring your little girl (or boy) to have a jolly ear-piercing.The video-rental and various photo-tasks store. When the machinery is okay, everything is okay. They almost certainly will have installed the electrical outlets up high. If not, they may be well planning to do it as soon as some electrician answers the phone.At the drygoods store, she wasn’t only wiping up the floor, but also washing the windows. I forgot to mention that for a brief, exciting interlude the ferocious wind brought a deluge of rain. It sounded like things were breaking outside. But this is her only, if toilsome, task; in the mountains there are still villages, isolated by masses of fallen trees and mudslides, which still have no electricity. They would love to be in Venice with only acqua alta.I like her spirit; she must be new around here. In fact, she is; this bar/cafe (which has no visible name) has been open only a little while.KirumaKata, another new shop, offers jewelry made of glass and also various ceramic objects. They’re very lovely. When I saw the barrier she had installed in front of the door (here we see only the frames), I thought, “Well, I hope that works out for her.” In fact, she told me that the panel keeps out water as high as 140 cm or so. After that — as our experience showed ten years ago — the water comes in however and wherever it wants to.Three days later (Nov. 1) is a holiday, so the banks are closed. Here on the Riva dei Sette Martiri, the Cassa di Risparmio left the front door unbarricaded, even though acqua alta is forecast for today. This shows either extreme tranquillity in the face of imminent inundation, or they’ve already organized everything inside really well.Towing a tree from somewhere to somewhere. Floating debris is a serious hazard to navigation, and there was plenty of it around after the high winds plus tide. Don’t think this is just somebody wanting to save on toothpicks.Needs no explanation.Nor this. The flat area is often used as an impromptu trash bin (seeing that there isn’t one as far as the eye can see, even if you use a telescope). In this case the border just floated on the surface of the water, and when the tide went down it left all this behind. Including the little bag of dog poop, because otherwise this wouldn’t be Venice.For the curious about the sanitation system here, I offer a rarely-mentioned note on acqua alta, at least at street- or canal-level. When the water is this high — which isn’t anything particularly threatening…..….the pressure of the tide makes it almost impossible for our toilet to do its work efficiently. After flushing, only a few teaspoons of water are left in the bowl, after a series of struggling, strangling, sucking noises from the plumbing. I add this information for anyone who might be on the ground floor someday during acqua alta and hears a noise that sounds like a hydraulic wrestling match. Also, I don’t use the washing machine till the tide goes down — I can only imagine it not draining at all and flooding the kitchen. Which would already be wet anyway, true, but I haven’t reached the point of WANTING water on the floor.
What a lot of extra work for you all. Your walk – or wade – round, armed with your camera is so typical, it seems to me, of people simply getting on with it and sorting it all out. No great wailing and moaning, as so many other areas might have. It seems true “Northern grit” coming to the fore – as a northerner in England, we tend to roll our sleeves up and get on with it, when the South on England wrings its hands…
But as you truly said, for many areas it was terribly so much worse.
Thank you again for chronicling so well the city that is like no other. I still look forward to getting back there later in this month … wellies packed, just in case!
If you want to read an epic tale of “Northern grit” in all its glory, read an account of how Gemona del Friuli rebuilt itself after the catastrophic earthquakes of 1976. Brought new meaning to “getting on with it.”
Thanks for this report, Erla. Have been anxiously awaiting your resurfacing since we got the first news of the high water last week. Glad to hear that you and Lino have emerged relatively unscathed but inconvenienced.
Alcohol to speed up evaporation! Cool. I thought it was only good for stupification ?.
Whew! We got out of Venice on Friday 26th October. Don’t know yet how the apartment at Dorsoduro fared. Missing the sarde in saor already.
A question about sanitation drainage, please Erla.In spite of our.many visits to Venice, we have never been sure whether some or all or none of the house drains are piped to the mainland, empty into the canals, or into pozzi neri. It didn’t seem appropriate to broach the subject over our coffee! Possibly you have dealt with this issue before?
Dreaming of a next visit already, but not in November.
No sewage is piped to the mainland. Either it is directed into a septic tank (“pozzo nero”) and is later pumped out into a “honey boat” and disposed of on the mainland, or it empties directly into the canal. In the mid-Nineties a law was passed requiring public buildings in Venice (hotels, restaurants, bar/cafés, offices, museums) to have septic tanks. Private dwellings may or may not have them.
As for the apartment in Dorsoduro, if the floor is below 150 cm. above mean sea level, water will have entered. I trust your landlady knows how to deal with it….
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What a lot of extra work for you all. Your walk – or wade – round, armed with your camera is so typical, it seems to me, of people simply getting on with it and sorting it all out. No great wailing and moaning, as so many other areas might have. It seems true “Northern grit” coming to the fore – as a northerner in England, we tend to roll our sleeves up and get on with it, when the South on England wrings its hands…
But as you truly said, for many areas it was terribly so much worse.
Thank you again for chronicling so well the city that is like no other. I still look forward to getting back there later in this month … wellies packed, just in case!
If you want to read an epic tale of “Northern grit” in all its glory, read an account of how Gemona del Friuli rebuilt itself after the catastrophic earthquakes of 1976. Brought new meaning to “getting on with it.”
I’ll seek it out immediately. Thanks.
May I link to your blog?
Yes indeed, thanks for asking.
Thanks for this report, Erla. Have been anxiously awaiting your resurfacing since we got the first news of the high water last week. Glad to hear that you and Lino have emerged relatively unscathed but inconvenienced.
Alcohol to speed up evaporation! Cool. I thought it was only good for stupification ?.
Which makes one wonder why alcoholics without a drink are said to be drying out.
Whew! We got out of Venice on Friday 26th October. Don’t know yet how the apartment at Dorsoduro fared. Missing the sarde in saor already.
A question about sanitation drainage, please Erla.In spite of our.many visits to Venice, we have never been sure whether some or all or none of the house drains are piped to the mainland, empty into the canals, or into pozzi neri. It didn’t seem appropriate to broach the subject over our coffee! Possibly you have dealt with this issue before?
Dreaming of a next visit already, but not in November.
No sewage is piped to the mainland. Either it is directed into a septic tank (“pozzo nero”) and is later pumped out into a “honey boat” and disposed of on the mainland, or it empties directly into the canal. In the mid-Nineties a law was passed requiring public buildings in Venice (hotels, restaurants, bar/cafés, offices, museums) to have septic tanks. Private dwellings may or may not have them.
As for the apartment in Dorsoduro, if the floor is below 150 cm. above mean sea level, water will have entered. I trust your landlady knows how to deal with it….