Mini-Memorial Day

Memorial Day is now disappearing in the traffic behind us (though my calendar notes that yesterday, May 30, was the traditional date for the same), but what are dates? As a wise person once remarked, for Gold Star families every day is Memorial Day.

In any case, many nations commemorate their fallen with masses of marble, eternal flames, and other worthy symbols of pride and humility.  Italy has the “Altare della Patria,” or Altar of the Fatherland, in Rome.

Imposing.  Serious.  Solemn.  (Photograph by alvesgaspar, wikimedia).

And then there is a schlumpy little chunk of some kind of stone that was sitting in a tangle of green-and-brownery at Sant’ Elena.  This last bit of Venice before the Adriatic Sea isn’t known for monuments, unlike the rest of the most-beautiful-city-in-the-world up the street.  But in fact the whole neighborhood is a sort of memorial to World War I, its streets named for generals, battlefields, dates and exploits.  And there is also this cube on which two words were long since incised: MILITE IGNOTO (MEE-lee-teh Ih-NYAW-to).  Unknown soldier.

Lino came across this relic a few months ago, and was startled and more than a little offended.  Not that he makes a cult of military cenotaphs, but he stated clearly that he saw no point in having such a significant object if it was just going to lie there, neglected and forgotten.  He said this also to a few other people too, especially to some of the officers at the nearby Scuola Navale Militare Francesco Morosini, where he teaches Venetian rowing.

“Unprepossessing” is putting it mildly. Till you think about it, and then you realize that this fragment is the exact equal of the mountain of metamorphosed limestone in Rome.

Most comments float away like dandelion fluff (if you’re lucky), but Lino’s particular comment stuck somewhere because a cultural association devoted to World War I entitled the Associazione Cime e Trincee (Peaks and Trenches) got to work, and last Sunday the newly furbished memorial was rededicated in the sight of God and a small but trusty company of assorted veterans.

This ceremony wasn’t matched with any particular date — they could have waited till Saturday and combined emotions with the national holiday commemorating the founding of the Italian Republic.  But they did it on Sunday, and we went.  We felt mystically involved, even though we still haven’t found out how the notion of bringing the stone back to life, so to speak, ever occurred.  It’s enough that it happened.

The Gathering of the Participants from various components of the armed forces with their standards. The participants outnumbered the spectators, but the fact that there WERE spectators is a fine thing.
When it comes to the bersaglieri (“marksmen,” or rapid light infantry) I’m not sure which is more dazzling — the fuchsia standard, or the cap cascading with turkey feathers.  I’ll take both.
Just about the best uniform ever.
Last to arrive were three cadets from the naval school, bringing the Italian flag. They were accompanied by a very energetic ex-member of the Alpine Regiment who appeared to be acting as a sort of stage manager.
Ready?
And off we march.
Hup two hup two.
The flag is raised.
We move a few steps back to stand along the border of the circular plot where the stone is placed.
The two little girls pulled off the orange cloth to reveal the stone, which has now been placed up on a sort of pedestal and isn’t lying around in the dirt anymore.
Don Gianni Medeot, the chaplain of the naval school and a naval officer, blesses the stone.
Being blessed. The traditional laurel wreath has very untraditionally been laid — albeit reverently — on its side. The ribbons are supposed to be vertical. But let me not spoil the moment.
As soon as the modest speechifying concluded, a youngish member of the Alpine regiment (not pictured, and not the stage manager) walked right up and straightened the wreath. I felt so much better. The picture of the three cadets also looks better this way.
The standards were then packed up in their carrying cases, and the everyone proceeded to the refreshment phase — here as simple as the ceremony: red wine and potato chips.
You don’t need a marching band or fireworks.

 

 

You may also like

3 Comments

    1. I love the Sant’ Erasmo marching band also (do they march, actually??). And I love all three of the pieces they play. But the tears they bring to my eyes may not be the ones you’re referring to…….

  1. Beautiful story. Thank you. Your photographs and stories of Venice offer a unique way to keep in touch with this incredible city I fell in love with a few years ago.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *