As I mentioned in my last post, Venice used to be infested with movie theatres, but time and tide and commerce wait for no man, and we all know that cinemas stay in business on a margin thinner than tissue paper. But it wasn’t always so. Lino took me on a walk around Venice to discover the movie theatres he remembered from days gone by.
Launching our voyage of discovery were two plaques I had long since noted (I can’t remember why I was there) on a meaningless little side street between San Marco and San Moise’. These announce to the few people who pass each day that two extraordinary events in Venetian history, and the history of theatre/spectacle/opera/public performances, took place there.
This spot was the site of the Teatro San Moise’, which like many cinemas was born as a regular theatre, with a stage and sandbags and so on. It had been established (as many theatres were) by a noble family — in this case, the Giustinian of San Barnaba — as an opera house in 1640 and, though small, was highly influential. (In 1668 it was enlarged to 800 seats.) Vivaldi and Albinoni and other musicians, Venetian or otherwise, held concerts of their music here, and it was also used for entertainments of the commedia dell’arte. In 1818 the theatre shifted to puppets, then was rebuilt as the Teatro Minerva.
There is nothing that even hints at an erstwhile theatre except this doorway:
Back to the plaques. The first one commemorates the defunct theatre in its musical incarnation:
And just a few feet away, on the same wall of what is now partly shops and partly apartments, is this:
As must be clear by now, movie theatres came, and then went. Their relatively brief life here was glorious. Following are most of the cinemas that Lino remembers. He didn’t favor me with any reminiscences about the back rows.
Let’s stop for coffee. The next episode will be a wander around Lino’s old neighborhood on the other side of the Grand Canal.
What’s become of the little cinema in Campo Santa Margherita?
Last time I looked (some years ago) the curved marquee was still up but it looked as though some construction was in very slow progress inside. Question: with all the recycling of theater buildings, where CAN one go to the movies in Venice?
I’m not sure I know of a “curved marquee'” — my latest post covers everything I can tell you about cinemas in Campo Santa Margherita. As for where you can go, every day the Gazzettino lists the daily shows and times. At the moment, there is the Giorgione Movie d’Essai, Cannaregio 4612, 041-522-6298; Casa del Cinema, San Stae 1990, 041-524-1320; Rossini Multisala, San Marco 3997/A, 041-241-7274; and Multisala Astra, via Corfu, 12, Lido, 041-526-5736. There is one movie theatre and four multiplexes in Mestre.
Erla,
You noted that “The phenomenon of public performances of anything, to which anybody might buy a ticket, originated in Venice.” I hadn’t known this, which seems to be a rather large gap in my knowledge of theatre history as well as of Venetian history. Do you happen to know when this happened? (Even a date rounded to the nearest century would be helpful.)
Thanks for the useful tidbit!
Cherie
The first public theatre in Venice was the Teatro San Cassiano, owned by the Tron family and located in the parish of San Cassiano; it opened in 1637. It offered operas rather than plays; music lovers might want to note that Claudio Monteverdi’s “Il ritorno d’Ulisse in patria” was performed here in 1641. The theatre closed in 1807 by order of Napoleon because, you know, Napoleon.
Hi
A round of applause to Lino for the maps. One query – public theatres were operating in London in the 1580’s, surely the history of public performances goes back much further to Greece and Rome of the 4thC BC?
Enough nit picking, thanks again for all your fascinating missives
7 Comments
What’s become of the little cinema in Campo Santa Margherita?
Last time I looked (some years ago) the curved marquee was still up but it looked as though some construction was in very slow progress inside. Question: with all the recycling of theater buildings, where CAN one go to the movies in Venice?
I’m not sure I know of a “curved marquee'” — my latest post covers everything I can tell you about cinemas in Campo Santa Margherita. As for where you can go, every day the Gazzettino lists the daily shows and times. At the moment, there is the Giorgione Movie d’Essai, Cannaregio 4612, 041-522-6298; Casa del Cinema, San Stae 1990, 041-524-1320; Rossini Multisala, San Marco 3997/A, 041-241-7274; and Multisala Astra, via Corfu, 12, Lido, 041-526-5736. There is one movie theatre and four multiplexes in Mestre.
Erla,
You noted that “The phenomenon of public performances of anything, to which anybody might buy a ticket, originated in Venice.” I hadn’t known this, which seems to be a rather large gap in my knowledge of theatre history as well as of Venetian history. Do you happen to know when this happened? (Even a date rounded to the nearest century would be helpful.)
Thanks for the useful tidbit!
Cherie
The first public theatre in Venice was the Teatro San Cassiano, owned by the Tron family and located in the parish of San Cassiano; it opened in 1637. It offered operas rather than plays; music lovers might want to note that Claudio Monteverdi’s “Il ritorno d’Ulisse in patria” was performed here in 1641. The theatre closed in 1807 by order of Napoleon because, you know, Napoleon.
Bravo!
Love the satellite maps! Very useful. And lovely anecdotes too:-)
Hi
A round of applause to Lino for the maps. One query – public theatres were operating in London in the 1580’s, surely the history of public performances goes back much further to Greece and Rome of the 4thC BC?
Enough nit picking, thanks again for all your fascinating missives
Well that’s embarrassing. Correction made.