March 22, much more than the second day of spring

The Wide Street of March 22nd
The Wide Street of March 22nd.  Just another cryptic date by now.

After the doges were let go in 1797 by the new management team of Napoleon and Satan, there was a very unhappy lull in Venetian history.  It was an unhappy lull even while it was happening, before it became history.

And it wasn’t what I’d really call a lull, either, unless you call being put to bed with dengue fever a lull.

This interval of tyranny and anguish was abruptly cut short on March 22, 1848, when the Venetians revolted against Austria, which had acquired Venice from France in a diplomatic trade-off immortalized in the Treaty of Campo Formio (October 18, 1797).  Cleverly, Napoleon effected this trade only after he had disemboweled the former Queen of the Seas, carrying off wagonloads of treasure and razing palaces, churches, convents and scuole (thereby making more treasure available for his waiting wagons).

IMG_6612  maninThe man who led the uprising and the brief establishment of the Republic of San Marco was a Venetian lawyer  named Daniele Manin.  I’ve outlined the story in another post, so I won’t go over it again.  I would just appreciate your pausing for a moment to consider the magnificence of this doomed attempt and the people who put everything into it.

And just think: Only twelve years later, the Austrians were gone.  I’m not capable of determining to what extent 1848 led to 1861, but I still want to give my own puny recognition of a huge event which everyone by now just takes for granted, I guess.

This plaque is on a wall of the Arsenal: "
This plaque is on a wall of the Arsenal: “By the unanimous virtue of the people the foreign dominion fell XXII March 1848 To eternal memory the municipality places this.”
The tomb of Daniele Manin, against the wall of the basilica of San Marco by the Piazzetta dei Leoncini.
The tomb of Daniele Manin, against the wall of the basilica of San Marco by the Piazzetta dei Leoncini.

 

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The figure of Venice on the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II on the Riva degli Schiavoni bears a reverent inscription on the hem of her garment.
The figure of Venice on the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II on the Riva degli Schiavoni bears a reverent inscription on the hem of her garment.

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Near Campo San Bartolomio masses pass every day without noticing the street sign:
Near Campo San Bartolomio hordes pass every day without noticing the street sign: “Little Street of Dry Goods 2 April.”  On April 2, 1849, the governing assembly of the Republic of San Marco voted to resist Austria at all costs.  “All costs” was not a problem for the Austrians, and on August 22, 1849, Venice signed its surrender.
Bust of Daniele Manin by Emilio Marsili (1898).  (Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti).  After the death of the infant republic, Manin was sent into exile, and spent the rest of his life in Paris giving Italian lessons.  He died on September 22, 1857.  What was up with the 22nd of all these months?
Bust of Daniele Manin by Emilio Marsili (1898). (Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti). After the death of the infant republic, Manin was sent into exile, and spent the rest of his life in Paris giving Italian lessons. He died on September 22, 1857. What was up with the 22nd of all these months?
Flag of the Republic of San Marco.
Flag of the Republic of San Marco.

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5 Comments

  1. I just began reading a book last night, “The City of Fallen Angels” by John Berendt, which has Venice as its locale, and I thought then about writing in today so you, Erla, and your readers, with your love of the city, might know about it. The book opens with two characters walking across a bridge to Campo Manin, and then I see this post! If I had been born on March 22nd (or yesterday, which some would suggest is true ;-), instead of today’s date, March 23rd, all of this would have been truly cosmic for me. But close, anyway.

    I know Venice pretty well, having spent approximately a month there in several visits, and I think the book’s good, both as literature and (so far) as a representation of the city. It’s a novel centered around the historical actuality of Teatro La Fenice burning in 1996. But I wonder if any of you, especially Erla, who know Venice much better than I, have read the book and what your opinion of it might be.

  2. I remember when the book came out — of course, I remember the event itself, too. I haven’t read it, so have no opinion.

  3. What a melancholy story. I’ve read John Julius Norwich’s A History of Venice and how he describes the pride that Venetians had in their Republic and the Stato da Mar. This leads me to my question: How many of today’s Venetians remember the fact that their citiy was one of the most powerful city-states of all time? I understand that they live in the city and see visual reminders of empire all the time. I don’t mean to come off as rude or anything.

    Thanks for taking the time to read this.

    1. Every Venetian remembers what their city used to be — not personally, obviously. The children, probably not as much because history is taught differently now than it was when Lino was a boy. In any case, you can’t generalize about “Venetians” — each individual remembers according to lots of factors, just as each individual in every country relates in his or her own way to their nation’s distant past. Two hundred years have gone by since the Republic fell, after all.

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