Christmas this year (so far) has been the most subdued I’ve ever seen. It’s not the spirit that is lacking, but the fundage. I don’t need to remind you that yes, we have no money.
Christmas lights no longer festoon via Garibaldi, though a few indomitable individuals have put up some illumination. I salute them. They obviously have nothing to fear from the energy companies.
And speaking of indomitable, I wouldn’t have thought it possible, but the neighborhood pastry-wizard has outdone himself in widening the space between size and price in his festive offerings. An ingenious little creation (note the use of the word “little”) of chocolate shavings and lumps of torrone, representing an Alpine village — the sort of thing which usually adorns a liquor-and-mascarpone-sodden cake — is now being offered without the cake. For the same inflated price. If I were to want to spend 30 euros ($40) for a plate of chocolate fragments, I would…. No, I wouldn’t, actually. If I had 30 euros to spend on a present, I’d give somebody a batch of bees via the Heifer Project. At least that way the gift would propagate. No propagation powers yet discovered in the world of ostentatious confections. End of sermon.
Day before yesterday, feeling the onset of the big day, we had a party at our rowing club. It was great. Because the tornado last June destroyed our clubhouse, we now cling to the edge of the lagoon with our boats parked under two big tents, with a container serving as locker room, kitchen, and bathroom. The kind of container they give to earthquake survivors. It works, but it’s not a long-term plan.
It was a modest, Bob-Cratchity sort of celebration but the most important elements were there: Fizzy wine (not the usual prosecco, but somebody’s home-bottled lambrusco), panettone and pandoro (my favorite, as is anything involving extra sugar), and smiling people. The frigid foggy wind was thrown in at no extra cost.
Another bonus was having time to hang around with some of the old guys and hear them geeze about the old days. I pick up unexpected bits of lore this way. This time I learned why gondoliers hate the nickname “pasta e oca” (pasta and goose).
Lino (whose grandfather was a gondolier, as is his son) says that they ate pasta and goose because they’ve always been “grandoni” — that is, tending toward the grandiose. Someone added, however, that in his opinion they hated being called this nickname because the dish (which I’ve never tried) is a sort of viscid, mucilaginous preparation which is so revolting it makes you want to barf. As it was told to me.
In any case, the preferred rejoinder to “Hey, pasta e oca!'” is “And yo’ mama gets the neck!”
Christmas spirit comes in all shapes and sizes, and I liked our standing-around-outside-in-the-freezing-soggy-air version. There weren’t very many of us, but it didn’t matter. This would be the only point on which I might agree with the pastry-shark. When it comes to a festa, it’s not about quantity.
So auguri (ow-GOOR-ee), as we say here. Technically, “good auguries.” We no longer practice divination by studying the liver of sacrificial animals, or the flight of birds, so I’ll translate this as “Good wishes!”
9 Comments
Merry Christmas Erla!! I hope you had a great day!! and had some cake!! 🙂
The day was great, thanks. We’ve long since given up on the cake, but strudel works fine for us. We buy the frozen supermarket variety. No Alpine villages, but that’s not a serious flaw. How’s that for the Christmas spirit??
I was strolling along Via Garibaldi yesterday and I was so disappointed there were no lights this year. But the Luna Park certainly looked festive.
Living in San Francisco, I am certainly used to fog, but the SF version of la nebbia is child’s play compared to the Venetion version we are having now! Saturday was positively bone chilling along the Zattere.
Auguri!
Tanti Auguri e Buon Anno
Thank you for your wonderful blog that keeps me in touch with Venice!
Best wishes for 2013!
Jo
Thank you and all the best to you too. And thanks for the encouragement, too!
I love the verb ‘to geeze’. I’m going to use it sometime but will credit you with its discovery, Erla. Lovely blog. Best wishes for a very happy New Year.
Thank you so much — I reciprocate the wishes for the New Year. I’d like to take credit for “to geeze,” but honesty compels me to reveal that I first heard it (actually, have only heard it) from my friend Alison Hughes in Virginia. Knowing her, it’s highly likely that she is the originator. Awkward for you to say “a friend of a friend” as attribution — I just want the credit to go where it’s due, seeing how rarely that happens in this life.
Hello,
I really enjoy your posts…My parents were Veneziani and I still have relatives in the Veneto. I liked seeing all the interesting Nativity additions…but I have yet to see a gondola with Santa Claus or the Befana. Have you seen them? I would love to have one or both..grazie
Annie
Thank you for writing — I love to hear from farflung Venetians. No, I haven’t seen a Santa in a gondola or a Befana in the Nativity scene figurines. I don’t follow this craft/business at all. It’s remotely possible that something like this might be available at the North Pole (so to speak) of Nativity statuettes, which is Naples — specifically, the shops lining the street of San Gregorio Armeno. I’ve been there in the distant past, and the assortment is overwhelming. (If you’d like to have George Clooney approaching the manger, I’ll bet somebody could help you.) In any case, why not go to Google and enter (as I just did): “napoli presepe san gregorio armeno” and see what you can dig up in the flood of material that comes forth?