Watching LinoVision

They’re like all the people Lino knows.

Back in the depths of the summer heat, about the time when the sun began to set and the air to cool, we liked to go outside and sit on the edge of our little fondamenta and watch everyone going to and fro along Fondamenta Sant’ Ana on the opposite side of the canal.

Many were hurrying along carrying boxes of pizza from via Garibaldi, presumably going home; others were dressed in ways showing various degrees of effort, heading toward via Garibaldi.  Tourist couples and families were undoubtedly going in search of somewhere to eat, but where the variously adorned teenage girls were going is something of a mystery.  They were dressed for bars and clubs, and while we have plenty of bars, I have no idea where the nearest club might be.  But obviously they knew, and they meant to get there.

There were homeward-bound mothers dragging strollers over the bridge, and old ladies (and sometimes men) dragging loaded shopping trolleys, either from the Coop (if they’re proceeding from right to left) or the Prix (left to right).  Speaking of dragging things, there were also a few rolling suitcases somewhere in the mix.

This is the fondamenta Sant’ Ana; early in the morning there isn’t much to see.  Watching this now would be like watching the color bars on TV at 3:00 AM.

And of course there are always people Lino knows, or who know him, which is almost the same thing.  I thought of those early evenings sitting outside as watching LinoVision.

Example:  A 30-ish man was walking briskly with his little girl, who appeared to be four or five years old.  He stopped and waved to Lino.  His daughter’s little voice asked him “Who’s that?”  He replied, “He’s someone who taught me how to row when I was little.”  Smiles and waves.  It’s really nice.  They move on.  I ask Lino, “Who’s he?”  He replies, “I have no idea.”  He’s taught thousands, probably, to row.  Can’t be expected to remember them all.

A middle-aged blonde woman goes by.  “See that woman?  She used to work in the bakery in Campo San Barnaba.”  (“Bakery?  You mean Rizzo?”)  Of course that’s what he meant, but it wasn’t always Rizzo.  I’m a latecomer on the scene.  But she herself isn’t what he’s remembering.

He grew up two minutes away from the bakery, down Calle Lunga San Barnaba, and it was owned by a man by the name of Morasco.  “I went to nursery school with his son,” Lino said.  This is not a startling thing to hear; by now, the people we encounter generally are sorted into a few broad categories: Went to nursery school with, went to school with, was in Scouts with, worked with, and a couple of “I used to be in love with”s.

“The family lived over the shop — the bakery itself stretched the entire length of the building from the campo to the rio Malpaga.  They had an enormous room upstairs and it was full of toys.  We didn’t have toys, but this room was full of them.”

“Was he an only child?” I guessed.

“Yes, he was.  Died young, too.  I don’t know of what.”  There you go: Your next novel all sketched out.

I would bet you that these two have known each other since birth. Anything they ever had to say, they said it long ago.

Another blonde woman, somewhat younger than the first, was going over the bridge.  She’s a nurse in the blood-test department of the hospital; Lino used to go there occasionally for some intermittent checkups.  Her technique with the needle would leave purple marks on his arm that looked like the Nile delta, and after the first two times he was sent to her station, he rebelled.  He just said to another nurse nearby, “I’m not going to her.”

Why not?  I didn’t hear his explanation, but it didn’t seem to surprise her.  “Never mind, I’ll do it.”  Maybe that’s why the blonde nurse never says hello.

Then there are the occasional individuals from his working life.  For example, the silver-haired owner of the fish-stand, usually somewhere in the background cleaning fish.  One day Lino noticed his resemblance to a long-gone colleague named Biagio.

“Are you Biagio’s brother?” he asked, as he was glancing casually at the array of fish.

“No, I’m his son,” was the reply.  Discovering connections like this doesn’t strike anyone but me as wonderful.  They evidently take it for granted.

You don’t have to tell me there’s somebody in here that Lino knows. I just take it as a given.

We pass two older guys on via Garibaldi.  One of them is a man I see fairly often, mixed into the daily mashup of locals.  Does Lino know him?  Trick question: OF COURSE HE DOES.

He came to the Aeronavali as an adult, as opposed to Lino, who started as an apprentice there when he was 16.  He was what Lino termed an “aeronautical adjuster,” specifically a first-rate welder, one of those mythically talented workmen from the days before machines came with instantly replaceable parts.  “He was amazing,” Lino recalled.  “He could put the legs on a fly.”  Just an expression, of course, but a compliment of the absolutely highest order.  If you needed to connect anything to anything else, he was your man.

“I don’t know where he came from,” Lino went on.  “When the Arsenal closed in 1955, some of their workers came to the airport.  Or he might have been with the ACTV” — then called ACNIL — “I can’t say.”  He came aboard some years after Lino, so not much more biography is available except that at some point he left to change careers, leaving behind the fly’s legs to work as a garbage collector.  “He probably made more money,” is Lino’s conclusion.  Mine too.  You don’t become a garbage collector for the glory or the fame.

Looks empty to me, but every place in Venice is swarming with memories.  When tourists talk about how crowded Venice is, they’re only talking about people they can see.  Anyone who’s Lino’s age sees hundreds more everywhere.
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Running across friends (again and again)

These ladies evidently don’t just “run into” each other — they look like these canal-side confabs are just the latest episodes in an endless series. “Game of Mops and Grandchildren,” perhaps?  They could well have been in adjoining bassinets in the hospital — it wouldn’t surprise me. People here are linked for life.

This morning we were walking home under the trees lining viale Garibaldi and, as more or less usual, we ran into someone Lino knows; a small, trim, grey-haired man with a pleasant smile and the most benevolent eyes.  We have encountered him at various moments over the years here and there, and he never changes, except I think he’s lost a little weight.

“Ciao, Federico,” Lino said, giving him several warm pats on the cheek, as if he were a little boy.  These pats are valid for anybody, at any age, and it’s almost unheard-of for someone to consider them strange, much less objectionable.  Children grow up being patted and I, for one, am glad to see there’s no expiration date. In this case Lino has a lifetime pass, because they’ve known each other forever.  In fact, they used to work together.

So, they exchange a few random comments about nothing, the sort of conversation that has no calories, sugar, sodium, trans-fats, and only the tiniest amount of carbohydrates, just to keep it going.

Lino made some remark about the atrocious condition of the world, and this was Federico’s opening: “Why do we not do what God tells us to do?” he asked, which is an excellent question.  “You could read your Bible sometime,” he continued amiably.  “It’s free.”

This suggestion didn’t surprise Lino or me — in fact, I was waiting for it, and so was Lino. Lino likes to needle him because Federico is a Jehovah’s Witness, and this morning he was even accompanied by a tall young man who just listened.

“Is this your apprentice?”, or “assistant,” or “disciple,” or “trainee,” or whatever Lino asked, even though it was obvious.  They were both wearing neckties, an object which is so rarely seen in this neighborhood as to be almost an archaeological artifact, but is an admirable part of the uniform.  I think they’d go without shoes before they’d leave off the necktie.

After a few more brief sallies — how old are you now (72) and where do you live (Giudecca), we all resumed our paths, we toward home, Federico toward whatever fields cried out for cultivation.  So to speak.

“Ah, Federico,” Lino said affectionately.  “He and his mother used to live in Cannaregio, but in the acqua alta of 1966 they lost everything.  The Jehovah’s Witnesses helped them out, and so here he is, this is what he does.”  I make a mental note that he would have been 21 at the time, an age when a major good deed coupled with some urgent explanations can have an effect. Not judging, just saying.

“So he keeps at it,” Lino continued, who is always a bit bemused by the man’s constancy and imperturbability, though if you’re not constant and imperturbable you’ll never make it as a proselytizer.  Just ask Saint Paul.

Anyway, “He’ll be out ringing doorbells, any time — Christmas Day, New Year’s morning at 9:00 AM.”  Lino stops to mimic a sleep-addled man going to a window and shouting down, “What?  Who?”  A pause to indicate Federico’s inaudible salutation.

“Just wait a minute,” the sleep-addled man says, then Lino mimics upending a full container out the window.

“He got everything — people would pour buckets of water on him.  Even chamberpots full of piss.”

Excuse me?

“Ha!  Just ask him about Murano that time.”  Which I won’t.  But I note that while Saint Paul was beaten and stoned, the record doesn’t show that that little joke was ever played on him, though it probably totally was.

“How do you know him?”

“We worked together at the Aeronavali.  Me, Conte, the other guys, we’d all rag him all the time.”  And what work did he do?

“He was the uomo di fatica,” the man of toil and exhaustion, the menial drudge which every company has, the guy whose job is the heavy lifting, shlepping, the hewer of wood and drawer of water.

Which means that Federico long ago made his peace with his modest place in the world, in and out of Kingdom Hall, and as we walked off I found myself dwelling more than usual on his embarrassingly simple question.  Why don’t we do what God says?  (That’s a rhetorical question, so hold off on the comments.  I know the answer.)

They probably grew up with the bear, as well.

While we’re on the subject of ex-colleagues from the Aeronavali, a while back we were hanging around the Arsenale vaporetto stop (I can’t remember why).  It was early evening and the light and the air were calming down.  A very nicely dressed older couple got off and were walking towards us.  They appeared to be going to some sort of party, or special gathering.  “Ciao, Marco” (not his real name). “Ciao, Lino.”

And that was…..? “That was Marco.  He started as an apprentice at the Aeronavali the same day I did,” Lino recalled. By the number of colleagues he keeps running into, it would seem there had been thousands.

“We were working on T-6 Harvard planes” — of course Lino would remember that; I throw it in for any aviation fans who might be reading.  He likes to set the scene and I respect that.

After a few years of this, Marco began to go to night school.  “He was studying to become a surveyor.  We all knew this, and we knew he would sometimes go off somewhere to study during working hours.  Maybe everybody knew it, anyway, somebody might come looking for him and we’d be all ‘Gosh, I don’t know, he was here a minute ago, any of you guys seen Marco?’…..”

Eventually he went to take his final exams, but cleverly went to an institute somewhere in Italy’s Deep South, where the grading was known to be much — make that MUCH — easier.  He passed.  But that wasn’t the end of the story.

Sebastiano Venier and the lion of the Republic he defended so brilliantly. I’ve seen two humans in line at the supermarket strike almost these exact poses and expressions, even though they may be the best friends ever.  And not have wings and swords.

He registered at the University of Venice to take courses leading to a degree in business administration.  Armed with that diploma, he returned to the Aeronavali as the amministratore delegato, or chief executive. Eventually he married a woman who owned some factory, Lino says, and he became director of the factory.  I’m supposing that was the lady who accompanied him.

“I remember the day I gave my notice,” Lino recalled.  “Marco said to me, ‘Come up to my office a minute.’  And we talked about my reasons for leaving, and then he opened his desk drawer and took out a small pin shaped like a swallow.  That was the emblem of the Aeronavali, and it was made of gold.  One day I lost it, somewhere out on the street.  You have no idea how sorry I am not to have it anymore.”

I must have five or six single earrings, their mates lost forever, which annoys the hoo out of me.  But that doesn’t make me anywhere near as sorry as he is.

Tomorrow, no telling what unforeseen encounter awaits.

Friends come in all shapes and sizes, as we know. Too bad they aren’t as easy to adjust as this tailor’s mannequin.

 

 

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More Venetian moments

Not a person, but I think it wants to be. It probably has relatives and co-workers all over Venice, like any Venetian.
Not a person, but I think it wants to be. It has relatives and co-workers all over Venice, like any Venetian.

You know what they are — they are those moments when family trees, or shrubs of some personal connection (usually with Lino), spring out of some random event.

A small example: We were walking across Campo San Barnaba the other day and Lino paused to look at one of the everlasting sequence of death notices taped to a convenient column.  Because this is his natal neighborhood, of course he wanted to see who it was.

I don’t remember the person’s name — it was a man — but it took Lino only about four seconds to place him.  “My older sister Giulia was married to Emilio,” he began.  This much I knew — I knew her, though Emilio had gone to glory before I entered the scene.  “Emilio had a sister, and this man was one of her sons.”

That would have made him… a cousin-in-law?

These are human root systems, surrounded by their related nodules and rhizomes.
These are human root systems, surrounded by their related nodules and rhizomes.

But that’s a mere dustmote compared to the story that came up yesterday, when Lino looked at the last page of the paper.  That’s where the obituaries are, and sure enough, there was someone he knew.  Knew very well, in fact.

It was another Emilio, but don’t let that distract you.  He passed away at the age of 91, which means he was 14 years older than Lino.  Pointless information, perhaps, but he was Lino’s “master,” for lack of a better word, at the Aeronavali, the company for whom Lino (age 16) went to work at the Nicelli airport on the Lido.  (His older brother and twin brother also worked there.) I calculate quickly that at the time Emilio would have been 30 — vastly older, and of course vastly more experienced.  Big.  Important.

Emilio was given a few apprentices to train, and Lino was one of them.  “None of us liked him,” Lino said.  “He treated his apprentices like servants.”

Eight years went by, and Lino was 24 years old, and things were going very well for him.  Emilio was now 38, and even more experienced and important, of course.  Word began to circulate that a squad was going to be organized and sent under contract for four months to Mogadishu, Somalia, to work in the airport and train the Somali mechanics.  (Note: In case one wonders “Why Somalia?”, Somalia had lived through three colonial experiences, and one of those periods was Italian.)

As I say, word was wafting around that a big expedition was being formed, and naturally the older workers — Emilio, for one — assumed they would be asked to go.  A few of them — Emilio, for one — had even begun preparing and collecting the necessary tools.  They were only waiting for the starter’s gun.

But one day Lino was called to the head office.  “What have you done this time?” was the general question from his co-workers as they watched him go.  “No idea,” was the reply.

When he came out of the office, several lurkers pounced.  What was going on?

“He asked if I wanted to go to Somalia,” said Lino.

“What did you say?”  said the thunderstrucks.

“I said yes, of course.”

Consternation everywhere, especially among the older group which had assumed they would be The Chosen.  Emilio was not chosen.  He had to stay behind and watch his still-young ex-apprentice go off in what he had assumed would have been his place, lugging the tools that he (Emilio) had so carefully assembled.

So much for Emilio, may he rest in peace.

Unfortunately, one of the most reliable moments for hearing stories about people is at funerals. But don't think they'll be talking only about the late departed -- there will be plenty of remarks to go around.
Unfortunately, one of the most reliable places to  hear stories about people is at funerals. But don’t think they’ll be talking only about the late departed — there will be plenty of remarks to go around.

There was also “Barba Keki,” the nickname of the head of the group, which roughly translates from the Venetian as “Uncle Frankie.”

“Did you talk this over at home first?” he asked, knowing perfectly well what the answer was.  (Lino at the time was a young husband with a several-months’-old son.)

B.K. was concerned, but not because he was jealous.  No, it was because B.K. (stay with me here) was the husband of the cousin of Lino’s father-in-law, and if Lino’s wife had protested, B.K. would have found himself in the eye of the cyclone.

Lino merely replied, “They asked if I wanted to go, and I said yes.”  Happily, no cyclone touched land.

Today, the flowering of the personal connection shrubbery put out some new blooms.

We had to go the bank to deal with some paperwork, and we went upstairs to see one of the officers, Roberto G.

Lino has known him ever since he (Roberto) was born.  This doesn’t surprise me anymore.  But he knew Roberto because he had known Roberto’s father, who worked at the Aeronavali when Lino also was working there.  He was a carpenter, and his nickname was Pianaura (pee-ah-nah-OO-rah) — “pianaura” in Venetian means “planing.”  For you linguists, the Italian word is piallatura.  A better rendering would be “wood shaving.”

It’s not over.  Lino also knew Roberto’s grandfather, Lello, because he too was working at the Aeronavali.  Lello was one of the men who did the heavy lifting, the scut work.  One of his tasks was to keep the big tank of drinking water filled, a plain but effective precursor of the water cooler.  Lello would pump water into the tank from another tank, then put in a chunk of ice (this was summer, clearly), and then a few drops of anise liqueur, such as Sambuca.  There are those who swear that water and Cynar is the best thirst-quencher, but the mechanics at the Aeronavali drank water and anise.

So we went to the bank — I signed some papers and got a family tree.  I like it.

The end of another story-filled day. I got to hear some of them, but I know there are plenty more out there, waiting.
The end of another story-filled day. I got to hear some of them, but I know there are plenty more out there, waiting.
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