“Merry Christmas” in pure gold leaf beaten by Marino Menegazzo, the last man in Europe who beat gold entirely by hand. Stefania Dei Rossi’s shop “Oro e Disegni” has plenty of beautiful golden things but the sentiment here is 24 karat.
Naturally I intended to get this out before Christmas, but Christmas itself tangled me up. (Pretty bold move to blame an entire holiday for my own lapses.) Still, I wanted to squeak this into the calendar before 2025 reaches its expiration date.
Just a few glimpses of what I saw as I wandered around. Seems like the holiday was composed mainly of scraps, but they were good scraps.
Heartfelt best wishes to everyone for a peaceful, healthy, safe, nutritionally balanced, philosophically harmonious 2026.
Rio di Sant’Anna looking toward via Garibaldi. The fog helps.Paolo Brandolisio’s forcola workshop has taken a frivolous twist. The forcola now looks like a duck but he gets extra points for making it work.Speaking of frivolity, I bet you’ll wish your house had a Nativity scene arranged inside a monster pasta shell. Someone at the Rizzo shop at San Giovanni Grisostomo deserves admiration and probably also a raise.The fish market at Rialto makes the most of its fishing traps at Christmas.Some bright spark at the Coop supermarket had some spare time, some spare paint and the real Christmas spirit.While we’re on the classic color scheme, let me offer this unidentifiable fruit in a decoction known as mostarda. Nobody cares what it looks like, what people (like me) love is the way its white-mustard-laced syrup is lying in wait to attack your mouth and throat and sinuses. The tiniest bite of this innocuous-looking candied fruit sets off a pyroclastic flow from your throat to your brain. They say it’s intended to aid digestion, but what happens on the way there is what matters. You have sinus trouble? Take a bite of this and you won’t have them to worry about anymore, they’ll be gone.And while we’re on the subject of digestion… These bags, which need no introduction, have been sold in Christmas colors. I have no idea who put these here (of course they’re not supposed to be left on the street), but whoever it may have been has a real sense of humor.I get my boxes of tissues at the Coop, and their Christmas version is very nice. But why did they only put this out on the shelves AFTER Christmas? Lino says they’re trying to clear out the holiday stuff and of course I get that. I just don’t understand why this holiday stuff was never seen before Christmas. So many questions…..One of the prettiest window sills ever. And the person who created this scene has more faith in humanity than, honestly, I ever will.At the Rialto market this sign on the door explained why the Osteria I Compari was closed.“Running off … Maria is born!!! Closed because of happiness.” Nothing to do with Christmas but everything to do with gladness of heart and I want everybody to bask in this.The Arsenale entrance — minimal but basically tells the whole story.Instead of leaves there are lights in front of Nevodi. I like it a lot.Via Garibaldi in holiday mode. Even the women’s bags are red and green. Fun fact: People in the center are walking on a filled-in canal — the edges of which are marked by the white strips along the sides.I don’t know which are lovelier — the lights inside or out. I’m going to say “inside,” but they do work well together.Last year there were lots of little angels fluttering above the creche in front of the church of San Francesco di Paola. This year there are flags. The story here pretty much tells itself.Until a few days ago the cakes in the window at Melita, Mario the pastry-maker’s shop, were about Christmas. All at once (and the countdown has begun) they’re all about New Year. “Buon Anno 2026.” Chocolate huts with chocolate chimneys are absolutely what this world needs more of.There is also a small but aggressive assortment of cakes that have abandoned the innocent greeting in favor of apocalyptic Lord-of-the-Rings shards of Theobroma cacao. Not sure if you’re supposed to eat it or vanquish it.The moon didn’t want to set that morning in early December. It hung on till nearly 8:00, then the clouds crept over it and ordered it to go shine on someone else.
Thanks so much! I love New York, I lived there for 20 years, and have made a sort of hobby of noticing the many ways the two cities resemble each other. I haven’t added much to my “collection” of similarities in a while, but this is what I managed a few years ago. Please overlook the hinky position etc. of the photos. I was still learning. https://iamnotmakingthisup.net/9287/venice-meets-new-york/
Yes, it is given to only a few to understand and love Venice in the winter. I read that Josef Brodsky only came here in the winter and I underestand that more every year.
Your photos and mini-essays are simply wonderful and cheer us up every time you post them. We are so grateful to you for your views of Venice!!
All best wishes for 2026 to you!
Dear Erla, thank you for more of your lovely photos and descriptions that never fail to cheer me and bring back happy memories. Wishing you and Lino a wonderfully happy and healthy 2026 and thank you again for spending some of your precious time with me and Doreen. It means more than you know. Love from us both. 😘
Happy New Year from San Francisco, where we’re just emerging from the darkest days. The gray rain, though welcome, is the objective correlative of our view of the disgraceful behavior of our government and the horror of this president.
Stay well, Erla and Lino. Love from the left coast.
Happy New Year from the East Coast, Bucks County Pa. To you and your family
I look forward to your posts which brings back lovely memories of my many visits.
I loved a week spent on my own just wandering and really had the time to notice the rhythm of your city. I enjoy your pointing out what you discover and sharing.
I too stand with Betty Kohlenberys Comment about the disgusting
Behavior of our government and morally bankrupt president he is truly horrible.
Thank you for sharing
Carolyn E Holland
Happy New Year to you and Lino from exotic Sant’Erasmo…what a splendid, golden end to the old year and start of the new one. I’ve sent it as a greeting to several friends! Thank you for your witnessing! xx!
Happy New Year to you from a small town in Ukraine (you will not find it on the map)! Thank you for your posts and gosh I LOVE this Christmas walk through Venice! Looking forward to your posts. All the best wishes to you and yours for 2026!
Like everyone else, thank you for all the images of Venice at Christmas that so perfectly remind me of all the Christmases we have spent in Venice over the decades. We’ve been so fortunate to be there and see so many slightly hidden treasures around the city. I worry people are so busy recording things on their ‘phones etc., and simply do NOT look or see properly. It’s made a brilliant start to 2026 to open this post, and bathe in Venetian Magic yet again, with your help. Our best wishes for you and yours in 2026 – 2025 has been so dreadful in many ways, it’s good to at least imagine some light at the other end of the 2025 tunnel we all seem to have been trapped in for so long>
Ella B.
Enjoyed this – the lights and all, can almost feel it!
There was a pastry shop Antiqua… with the mostarda- looked like a thick paste shaped like a xmas pudding with the most intense conflicting flavors – hard to know how to use it, other than a sinus opener…the sweet senora just smiled. Would love to experience it at Xmas. thanks for the post!
Christmastime in Venice is wonderful. I discovered your blog in December 2023, while sitting in departure at Marco Polo, and I enjoyed it so much it almost made up for the confiscation of my crystallized honey (which I learned is officially a liquid despite being completely solid).
In the time since then I’ve gone back and read most of the older posts, and I look forward to every new one. I’m hoping to visit Venice again in a future December, and when I do I will understand and appreciate much more of what I see, thanks to your writing. Wishing you and yours a happy New Year.
You have started my year off in great style — I’m so glad that you like my scribbles and even that they could almost make up for the loss of the honey. I hope your New Year is happy and safe.
32 Comments
All the best wishes for 2026!
Thanks so much, Andreas Lo Svedese, as we call you. To you and your wonderful family.
Happy New Year from New York City!
Thanks so much! I love New York, I lived there for 20 years, and have made a sort of hobby of noticing the many ways the two cities resemble each other. I haven’t added much to my “collection” of similarities in a while, but this is what I managed a few years ago. Please overlook the hinky position etc. of the photos. I was still learning. https://iamnotmakingthisup.net/9287/venice-meets-new-york/
My sister and I were just saying how much we love Venice in the winter…. Thanks for bringing us along!
Yes, it is given to only a few to understand and love Venice in the winter. I read that Josef Brodsky only came here in the winter and I underestand that more every year.
thank you for bringing Venice to me when i can’t get to her!
Another masterpiece! Happy New Year to you and Lino.
And the same a hundred times back to you and Carol.
I love this post. That is a very big wish, but I reflect it back to you like the beautiful lights in the rio di Sant’Anna.
Your photos and mini-essays are simply wonderful and cheer us up every time you post them. We are so grateful to you for your views of Venice!!
All best wishes for 2026 to you!
Thank you so much — I had no idea my scribbles could cheer anyone up. But I’m really happy it works like that!
Wonderful post!!!
Happy New Year 💖
Dear Erla, thank you for more of your lovely photos and descriptions that never fail to cheer me and bring back happy memories. Wishing you and Lino a wonderfully happy and healthy 2026 and thank you again for spending some of your precious time with me and Doreen. It means more than you know. Love from us both. 😘
Our little rendezvous a few months ago was one of my highlights from 2025. You all should be proud! When are you coming back????
Happy New Year from San Francisco, where we’re just emerging from the darkest days. The gray rain, though welcome, is the objective correlative of our view of the disgraceful behavior of our government and the horror of this president.
Stay well, Erla and Lino. Love from the left coast.
Thanks so much, Betty. I understand and share your thoughts and feelings. Much love back to you from me and Lino.
Happy New Year from the East Coast, Bucks County Pa. To you and your family
I look forward to your posts which brings back lovely memories of my many visits.
I loved a week spent on my own just wandering and really had the time to notice the rhythm of your city. I enjoy your pointing out what you discover and sharing.
I too stand with Betty Kohlenberys Comment about the disgusting
Behavior of our government and morally bankrupt president he is truly horrible.
Thank you for sharing
Carolyn E Holland
Even more lovely and intriguing than usual. Thank you for years of posting the essence of Venice.
I was hoping you’d like my scribbles but “even more lovely and intriguing” is more than I’d hoped for! Will try my best to do more this year.
Happy New Year to you and Lino from exotic Sant’Erasmo…what a splendid, golden end to the old year and start of the new one. I’ve sent it as a greeting to several friends! Thank you for your witnessing! xx!
High praise indeed. Thank you for keeping track of me in equally exotic Venice.
Happy New Year to you from a small town in Ukraine (you will not find it on the map)! Thank you for your posts and gosh I LOVE this Christmas walk through Venice! Looking forward to your posts. All the best wishes to you and yours for 2026!
Happy New Year back to you and your family, out there in your invisible small town. I’m glad you like to share Venice with me. Slava Ukraini!
Thank you for the photos of Venice this time of year. It is lovely.
Thanks for writing — I hope you’re well and that you come back in 2026.
loved the last photo of the moon
It happened again just this morning. Beyond marvelous.
Like everyone else, thank you for all the images of Venice at Christmas that so perfectly remind me of all the Christmases we have spent in Venice over the decades. We’ve been so fortunate to be there and see so many slightly hidden treasures around the city. I worry people are so busy recording things on their ‘phones etc., and simply do NOT look or see properly. It’s made a brilliant start to 2026 to open this post, and bathe in Venetian Magic yet again, with your help. Our best wishes for you and yours in 2026 – 2025 has been so dreadful in many ways, it’s good to at least imagine some light at the other end of the 2025 tunnel we all seem to have been trapped in for so long>
Ella B.
Enjoyed this – the lights and all, can almost feel it!
There was a pastry shop Antiqua… with the mostarda- looked like a thick paste shaped like a xmas pudding with the most intense conflicting flavors – hard to know how to use it, other than a sinus opener…the sweet senora just smiled. Would love to experience it at Xmas. thanks for the post!
Christmastime in Venice is wonderful. I discovered your blog in December 2023, while sitting in departure at Marco Polo, and I enjoyed it so much it almost made up for the confiscation of my crystallized honey (which I learned is officially a liquid despite being completely solid).
In the time since then I’ve gone back and read most of the older posts, and I look forward to every new one. I’m hoping to visit Venice again in a future December, and when I do I will understand and appreciate much more of what I see, thanks to your writing. Wishing you and yours a happy New Year.
You have started my year off in great style — I’m so glad that you like my scribbles and even that they could almost make up for the loss of the honey. I hope your New Year is happy and safe.