Your neighbors annoy you? Be glad you don’t live on the Street of the Bombardiers.
Well, she doesn’t do EVERYTHING. But Santa Barbara carries quite the sanctified payload, meaning no disrespect. I first made her acquaintance because she is patron saint and protector, among many other things, of the Italian Navy, and I have enjoyed the regata organized in her honor over the past 20-some years. As noted here and here. Now I discover she’s everywhere, even up to and including your hospital bed.
A quick review of her responsibilities, apart from the Navy, which would be a full-time job for most people/saints, reveals the special attention she gives to: Miners, firefighters, tunnelers, artillerymen, armorers, fireworks manufacturers, chemical engineers, prisoners (see: tunnelers?), and protection from lightning. Although they do not celebrate her special day, she is also the patron saint of the US Navy and Marine Corps Aviation Ordnancemen. As I summarize it in my own mind, protection against anything that goes boom. Hence lightning.
But these very specific dangers don’t stop with mere explosives. Barbara also offers protection from sudden death. Diseases that strike and escalate suddenly and are “intense to the point of lethality” are called fulminant (in Venetian, matches are called fulminanti, just to maintain the theme of flame). And while a number of diseases can appear in fulminant form, the worst for Venice was the plague.
Which brings me to the street of the bombardiers. If you turn down this short, narrow and dark street you will find not one, but two tablets carved in relief honoring Santa Barbara. I have not yet discovered if this street is so named because it was the site of their scuola — I can only hope it wasn’t the site of their storeroom. But where I went for bombs I discovered pestilence.
Morning is the only time you can make sense of this small masterpiece on what is a very gloomy street. We can discern a few of her typical symbols (three-windowed tower, where her cruel father imprisoned her for her faith; the palm frond indicating her martyrdom, beheaded by the aforementioned cruel father; the arrow representing lightning, as in the lightning that struck her cruel father dead). But the date above it surprised me: 1575, the year of one of Venice’s two worst plagues, the one that inspired the construction of the church of the Redentore on the Giudecca. Between 1575 and 1576 some 46,000 people died, almost 30 percent of the entire population.Barbara earned a second tablet just a few steps further on down the street. No date on this one, so perhaps it was intended as a salute to the bombardiers rather than the plague victims. As for the depiction, I realize that the centuries have worn this away, and that nobody knows what she looked like because nobody can swear that she ever even existed. I can only say I’m sorry that the bigger tablet gives her a head that looks like Emperor Constantine on a beat-up coin, and this version brings the Elephant Man to mind. But no matter. If you’re a saint, nobody cares about these things. The point is what you can do, not how you do your hair. Non-saints could also keep this in mind.And then you exit by the sotoportego of the bombardiers and you’re back under the watchful eye of whichever saint you adhere to.
Turning from Barbara’s concern for disease and back to conflagration, consider the problem of gunpowder. It was kept in the Arsenale until two disastrous explosions (all it took was a spark!) — in 1476 and then 1509 — made it clear that it belonged out on some nearby islands instead. One still bears the name Sant’ Angelo delle Polvere (Saint Angelo of the Powder). On August 29, 1689, lightning struck the magazine there and 800 barrels of gunpowder exploded.
Faith in Santa Barbara remained firm, however, meaning no disrespect. Despite certain small derelictions of duty, as noted above, until the invention of the lightning rod in 1752 she was the best everyone could do.
Fun fact: The gunpowder storeroom on warships is called the santabarbara. Is that a somebody’s idea of a dare?
The chapel of Santa Barbara is on the island of Burano, next door to the church of San Martino. (The chapel is the beige building dead ahead in the sunlight.) They say that her relics are kept here. You might think that there would be ceremonies on her feast day (December 4), but no. Until either plague or gunpowder strikes, it appears they want to leave her in peace.
“The sacred remains of Santa Barbara virgin and martyr of Nicomedia donated by the devotion/reverence of Giovanni son of Doge Pietro Orseolo II and for about a millennium in temples of the lagoon of Rialto of Torcello and of Burano. Conserved and venerated in this chapel restored by the Comune perpetuate the light of heroic faith.” The discharged Venetian sappers remembering the work of their member Vittorio Maraffi in the redemption of this building. These stones positioned by their hands are devotedly consecrated to the Patron of the corps. The kalends of October 1957 Reconstructed by the Section of Veteran Combatants of Venice 1998. The “kalends” was the first day of each month of the Roman calendar and is a very elegant/archaic way of citing a date. However, there is a common expression here when you want to predict that something will never happen — you say it will occur on the calende greche, or Greek calends, which on the Greek calendar don’t exist.
Oh Erla, such a bright spot on an othewise gloomy morning (day, week, month, year, epoch…); thank you!
I’ve immediately sent it to my friend in Santa Barbara, the Californian Santa Barbara that is. I’m guessing the navy yards over there also need a bit of help…
Castello is the sestiere (singular) of the Santa Barbara carved tablets. Two steps from the church of San Francesco della Vigna on the Salizada S. Francesco. I think I mentioned the nearby Arsenale but that wasn’t very helpful, I apologize.
Excellent catch, sharp-eyed reader. How embarrassing for me. Belltowers kept getting hit by lightning until the later 1770’s (a lightning rod was installed on the campanile of San Marco in 1776; Franklin’s invention came out in 1752). Going to repair the damage now.
As my mother was a Barbara – and one of my names is, too, then I have a certain fondness for that Saint. It had slipped my mind which was her saint day – perhaps I ought to raise a glass tonight to all Barbaras, everywhere>
Yet another of your informative pieces, that I do so look forward to seeing and reading. Thank you yet again
Ella B
Oh Erla, every time I read your posts I want to move to Venice, and especially to Castello, and to a house close to yours, even if Sant’Elena is a bit of a walk from elsewhere. I’ve been coming to Venice periodically since 1971, and could well imagine ending my days there.
I’m so glad that my scribbles bring back (or keep alive) happy memories for you. Just a note (if I’ve understood you correctly), I don’t live on Sant’Elena, though it’s true that it’s not all THAT far from via Garibaldi. Or perhaps you are imagining your Venetian dwelling as being on S’E? In any case, come right along whenever you can.
A crystal clear day here, but as it is Santa Barbara’s Day, I trust we will not be smitten out of the blue. I’ve forwarded this to our university’s atmospheric physicist authority on lightening, as he loves this kind of historical linkage.
Wonderful think that you want to share our protectress against lightning with your local authority. I risk saying that history would show either that Barbara isn’t as effective against lightning as one might wish, or that she gets to decide who is going to take the hit or be spared. Anyway, let me know if the atmospheric physicist can recall any situations that could only be explained by Barbara’s intervention (meaning no disrespect either to her or your colleague).
Thanks for your note. Not feeling better about anything, if one wishes total honesty. But the fascination of the place is carrying me along. Cheers to you and Randy.
Erla, as an emeritus college Art Professor, I look back at my student summer group tours to Europe with fond memories. Your witty, well written descriptions of Venezia, which has always been my favorite European city, are absolutely delightful….and so entertaining. They give me additional inspiration to explore your beautiful city on my next visit. Keep up the insightful writing. Best Regards, Lee Jacobson
I’m happy to know that you are enjoying my efforts. After 14 years at it, my inspirations are becoming a bit random, so your encouragement has given me a real boost.
As to the arsenalotti’s scuole: most of them were in the close parish churches of S. Ternità, S. Martino, S. Biagio, S. Pietro di Castello, but few also moved in churches further off the Arsenale region, like e.g. S. Stefano. The bombardieri’s scuola and altar moved to S.M. Formosa. Coming down the bridge which leads to to the campo S.M. Formosa there is on the right side of the facade the same small relief of S. Barbara which is in the street of the bombardieri, and inside Palma V.’s big tryptich of S. Barabara (restored 1992 by Save Venice).
Interesting read: Robert C. Davis, Shipbuilders of the Venetian Arsenal. P. 83-117 The Community of the Arsenalotti.
I’ve been coming to Venice for about 30 years where I’m lucky enough to have friends there who have become my Italian family. Because of Covid it’s been several years since I was there and your wonderful writing keeps it alive in my heart. I’m so sorry to read you’re not feeling better but selfishly hope this won’t stop your interesting pieces. Thank you Erla.
We do enjoy your informative and really erudite writings that shine a clear bright light on things that those of us who are so fond of Venice, but so far from being there really enjoy. I did worry that you were not happy about writing sometimes, the long gaps, but please rest assured, we all feel such a good and enjoyable connection with the things no mere tourist sees, through you.
EllaB
Sant’ Angelo delle Polvere also has another name, Contorta, and it was a nunnery before it became a magazine which then blew up. It was very notorious and shut down by the pope in the 1470s (many affairs and pregnancies by the nuns) – as described in the academic book The Boundary of Eros by Guido Ruggiero and which I write about in my recent novel The Virgins of Venice. I’ve always been curious to visit it, but apparently it’s pretty much impossible to do without a kayak or private boat. Thanks for your blog – love it and find it really helpful as a novelist!
It would seem that I’m a bit late to the party but then I accidently stumbled on an article on the intranet at my current client, the muncipality (region) of Stockholm, from 2022 about the benedications of the new metro tunnels in Stockholm. For as long as anyone cares to remember there has been talk about expanding Stockholms’ metro network an a few years ago, after clearing most of teh bureaucratic hurdles, work actually begun. A ceremony was held by a pater from the Catolic church and a statue of Santa Barbara will be erected at the entrance of entrance of the tunnel trough Blaiseholmen. I think it is beautiful that the tradition continues and that someone, perhaps, will benefit from the statue and feel the prescense of God, if just for a short moment.
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Oh Erla, such a bright spot on an othewise gloomy morning (day, week, month, year, epoch…); thank you!
I’ve immediately sent it to my friend in Santa Barbara, the Californian Santa Barbara that is. I’m guessing the navy yards over there also need a bit of help…
In which
sestieri
does one
find the
mentioned commemorations?
Castello is the sestiere (singular) of the Santa Barbara carved tablets. Two steps from the church of San Francesco della Vigna on the Salizada S. Francesco. I think I mentioned the nearby Arsenale but that wasn’t very helpful, I apologize.
Excellent… But wasn’t it Ben Franklin who invented the lightning rod? I can’t really see the Serenissima putting them up in the 16th century. 😄
Excellent catch, sharp-eyed reader. How embarrassing for me. Belltowers kept getting hit by lightning until the later 1770’s (a lightning rod was installed on the campanile of San Marco in 1776; Franklin’s invention came out in 1752). Going to repair the damage now.
How on earth did she ever find time to do the shopping? Great story as always, Erla, do please keep them coming.
I don’t know how she found time to do the shopping, to be honest, but I really want to know how she found the time to do the ironing!
We almost bought a house in that street! I read/was told (I can’t remember) that this was where the bomb makers who worked in the Arsenale lived?
Your posts teach me SO much. Thank you!
As my mother was a Barbara – and one of my names is, too, then I have a certain fondness for that Saint. It had slipped my mind which was her saint day – perhaps I ought to raise a glass tonight to all Barbaras, everywhere>
Yet another of your informative pieces, that I do so look forward to seeing and reading. Thank you yet again
Ella B
Oh Erla, every time I read your posts I want to move to Venice, and especially to Castello, and to a house close to yours, even if Sant’Elena is a bit of a walk from elsewhere. I’ve been coming to Venice periodically since 1971, and could well imagine ending my days there.
I’m so glad that my scribbles bring back (or keep alive) happy memories for you. Just a note (if I’ve understood you correctly), I don’t live on Sant’Elena, though it’s true that it’s not all THAT far from via Garibaldi. Or perhaps you are imagining your Venetian dwelling as being on S’E? In any case, come right along whenever you can.
A crystal clear day here, but as it is Santa Barbara’s Day, I trust we will not be smitten out of the blue. I’ve forwarded this to our university’s atmospheric physicist authority on lightening, as he loves this kind of historical linkage.
Wonderful think that you want to share our protectress against lightning with your local authority. I risk saying that history would show either that Barbara isn’t as effective against lightning as one might wish, or that she gets to decide who is going to take the hit or be spared. Anyway, let me know if the atmospheric physicist can recall any situations that could only be explained by Barbara’s intervention (meaning no disrespect either to her or your colleague).
Hope that this cheering piece means that you are feeling better in general & specifically about la Serenissima.
Grazie a Santa Barbara & a blue sky.
Thanks for your note. Not feeling better about anything, if one wishes total honesty. But the fascination of the place is carrying me along. Cheers to you and Randy.
Erla, as an emeritus college Art Professor, I look back at my student summer group tours to Europe with fond memories. Your witty, well written descriptions of Venezia, which has always been my favorite European city, are absolutely delightful….and so entertaining. They give me additional inspiration to explore your beautiful city on my next visit. Keep up the insightful writing. Best Regards, Lee Jacobson
I’m happy to know that you are enjoying my efforts. After 14 years at it, my inspirations are becoming a bit random, so your encouragement has given me a real boost.
Wonderful article, thank you!
As to the arsenalotti’s scuole: most of them were in the close parish churches of S. Ternità, S. Martino, S. Biagio, S. Pietro di Castello, but few also moved in churches further off the Arsenale region, like e.g. S. Stefano. The bombardieri’s scuola and altar moved to S.M. Formosa. Coming down the bridge which leads to to the campo S.M. Formosa there is on the right side of the facade the same small relief of S. Barbara which is in the street of the bombardieri, and inside Palma V.’s big tryptich of S. Barabara (restored 1992 by Save Venice).
Interesting read: Robert C. Davis, Shipbuilders of the Venetian Arsenal. P. 83-117 The Community of the Arsenalotti.
I appreciate your taking the trouble to add so much to the subject. Thanks for the citation of the book, too.
I’ve been coming to Venice for about 30 years where I’m lucky enough to have friends there who have become my Italian family. Because of Covid it’s been several years since I was there and your wonderful writing keeps it alive in my heart. I’m so sorry to read you’re not feeling better but selfishly hope this won’t stop your interesting pieces. Thank you Erla.
We do enjoy your informative and really erudite writings that shine a clear bright light on things that those of us who are so fond of Venice, but so far from being there really enjoy. I did worry that you were not happy about writing sometimes, the long gaps, but please rest assured, we all feel such a good and enjoyable connection with the things no mere tourist sees, through you.
EllaB
St. Barbara it the paton saint of US Army Field Artillert. They formally celebrate her Birthday every year.
Thanks so much for adding this!
Sant’ Angelo delle Polvere also has another name, Contorta, and it was a nunnery before it became a magazine which then blew up. It was very notorious and shut down by the pope in the 1470s (many affairs and pregnancies by the nuns) – as described in the academic book The Boundary of Eros by Guido Ruggiero and which I write about in my recent novel The Virgins of Venice. I’ve always been curious to visit it, but apparently it’s pretty much impossible to do without a kayak or private boat. Thanks for your blog – love it and find it really helpful as a novelist!
It would seem that I’m a bit late to the party but then I accidently stumbled on an article on the intranet at my current client, the muncipality (region) of Stockholm, from 2022 about the benedications of the new metro tunnels in Stockholm. For as long as anyone cares to remember there has been talk about expanding Stockholms’ metro network an a few years ago, after clearing most of teh bureaucratic hurdles, work actually begun. A ceremony was held by a pater from the Catolic church and a statue of Santa Barbara will be erected at the entrance of entrance of the tunnel trough Blaiseholmen. I think it is beautiful that the tradition continues and that someone, perhaps, will benefit from the statue and feel the prescense of God, if just for a short moment.